Well, I started the plumbing today. I didn't dare hook water up to the old copper, because the old owner told me it leaked all over the place, and that was why he removed the water. I am lucky enough to have a shower and toilet in my little old Shasta. So, I really want to hook the water b ack up. I started today with a new city water connection. It wasn't too pricy at Camping World. Then I went to Home Depot and got compression fittings at polyethylene flex line. I got the cold water line in to the sink and the new connector too. I now have a kitchen faucet, sink and cold water, but there is no drain to the sink yet so it's got a bucket under it. I wanted to get this project finished by June 12th (our first beach camping trip) but it looks like it may take a little longer.

I am going to try to tackle the toilet tomorrow. I'm cutting out all the old copper, the old water heater and the gas heater. I live in Florida I don't really need a heater and the gas line are probably worse than the water lines, so I don't trust them.

I found a really cool solar water heater,and I'm probably going to get, as back up, instant electric hot water, down the road. Right now I will be happy to have a working faucet and toilet. If anyone has a tips or things to watch out for let me know!

Thanks again,

Mary

Tags: RV Waterlines and pex, how to repair rv plumbing

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You can also use dishwasher or sink water lines for under your sink, to connect the sink to the water supply. The fittings fit old camper plumbing perfect
Y,

A plus when running new lines to sinks and toilets, is to put in SHUT OFF valves. If you aquire a leak at any of the sinks or toilet, you can shut the water off to that area and still have water in the other area. 

Nothing is worse then having a toilet leak and having to completly shut all the water off. It's worth the extra $6. (reffering to the PEX fitting line up).

Good point. I did too and forgot to add that.
Back when I use to replace copper with pex, i used a combination of pex and q'est fittings. An old mom and pop shop like me might have them or possibly online. Id use 1/4" id pex with a flare tool and 3/8" flarenuts at the fixtures. Then I use the q'est fittings with the cones, nuts and rings with tees to get to a 3/8" or 1/2" ID mainline and plumb with flare-it anyplace I could. There is a special tri-lobal flare tool for the pex but a standard will work, just flare and release till you get the flare you like. This gives you a nice professional plumb job with adaptation to those pesky 3/8" flared fixtures. I dont know if the shark bite style fittings go down to 1/4" ID, Im not really a fan of this style connector.

Yes, I used 1/4 in ID, 1/2 OD with compression fittings. I hope they hold. I'm not putting in a holding tank because I don't camp off the grid. I will always need electric and water, so I don't need a pump or tank, just a regulator. Thank god, my grandfather was a plumber and I was his shadow when I was young. I'm sure I will make mistakes, but it sure helps to have watched him for years!

I do have one question... Will the compression fittings work for the toilet connection? I won't need to disconnect for winter because I live in Florida...So I'm not worried about that.

You can use compression fittings anywhere. I used dishwasher lines and went to Home Depot. The fittings were on the water lines!! I love pex and it holds up through a michigan winter.
The 1/4" line I used was 3/8"OD, like the copper. I would flare that and use a flare nut to attach to flare fittings. I assume you have the 3/8" flares on the fixtures and toilet. Then the q'est to adapt the 3/8" OD line to larger sizes with their compression nuts, cones, and rings.

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