Unwanted water bed!!!!!!

[Dean Inskip]

I have just made a worrying discovery with our new purchase. I appear to have a leak from somewhere. The water is finding its way between the top bunk floor and the panel just above the cab. As a temporary measure I have drilled a small hole in the panel above the cab to let the water out. If the weathwer holds this weekend I am going to try to take some of the bunk floor up in an effort to see where the water is coming from. Also I'm going to have a go at sealing all joints and window frames up. I just wondered if there were any common problem aresa I should be looking at??

[Becky Blanton]

If it is "New" in the sense it is TOTALLY new, take it back to the dealer. If it is just new to you, and not under warranty you'll be looking for a long time. If it's in your budget take it to an RV place and let them pressurize it/test it. That'll show you where all the leaks are. In older RV's you can have a leak in the front and drips and water damage in the rear from where the water runs along a beam or wiring or something inside. What kind (model and year) RV is it?

Blacking out your windows and turning on strong floodlights inside the RV at night, then standing outside to see if you can see any light works sometimes - for larger leaks...but the pressurized thing is the best. Sorry, no idea what it costs.

I had the same problem with a cab-over and "solved" it by cleaning and resealing the entire roof - first with clear silicone in all the joints, then with a rubber roof sealer. I had it for another two years and never had another leak. I only paid $1,000 for the RV, so that worked for me. You may want to invest more time and money if it is a newer model etc. Good luck finding the leak.

[Dean Inskip]

No it's "new" to us, its a 1974 Dodge Sportsman with a Continental body. I have started taking the floor boards out on the top bunk and its very wet. I have found what looks like a hole around the front window and at least one of the top marker/running lights was loose, actually not screwed on at all, and was very wet/mouldy underneath, right where the large hole for the wiring goes into the body !!!

I have put a small heater and a dehumidifier in there at the moment in an attempt to dry it out.

[Becky Blanton]

Ah....that's where one of my big leaks was - near the window. That area flexes A LOT. I had a 73 El Dorado - and loved it. Wish I still had it. Yep. Dry it totally out - under cover/roof if possible. There's some wonderful wood treatment I used (seemed to work great for me!) at The Rot Doctor: http://www.rotdoctor.com/

Try these links while your RV is drying:

http://rvbasics.com/techtips/rv-dry-rot.html
http://www.rvdoctor.com/

[VK]

I would pull the window and install new putty tape under the flange. That will also give you a chance to inspect the framing around the window. Also, the edge trim and roof cap seam are very bad for leaking. If you can take the edge trim loose and replace the putty tape, it will help a lot. Depending on construction of your rig, you may need new putty at the roof cap seam as well. Roof vents are another place that putty dries out and allows water in.

I never recommend silicone because it fails in a couple of years. Nothing will stick to it, even more silicone, so it can't be redone. Instead of silicone, there is a product called Dicor self leveling lap sealant. It flows into nooks and crannies and is very good on roofs. After re-puttying, Dicor is very good around each roof protrusion. It does not work on vertical surfaces because it runs down...

Hope this helps. Air pressure test is great-look for leaks with soap bubbles. VK

[Dean Inskip]

Got up to roof level at the weekend and found one of the top market lights was loose ( screws had broken ) and it was sitting proud of the bodywork, not a good idea when there's an inch diameter hole underneath for the wires!!!
Took light right off and resealed it to panel along with all others, plus found what could have been a gap in the window seal, haven't gone to the extent of removing window yet. Will see how my repairs hold out.

[Becky Blanton]

Ah! I wish I had known about that then!! Everyone I asked said silicone. I will add Dicor to my list for any future repairs!! Thank you!

I'm getting ready to put a Fantastic Fan in my van. Do you have any recommendations on putty for that installation? Will the Dicor work as a preventive thing too? Any tips on putty brand/name/type much appreciated.

Thanks!

[Dean Inskip]

Well thought I'd cured it, but checked this morning ( daily ritual!!! ) after a day of hard rain and there is still water coming in, its not dripping off the inner window frame screws now, so must have stopped some.

Hopefully my new waterproof cover will be here in a couple of days so at least I can cover the van over and get it dry then tackle the leaks when the weather drys up a bit.

Bit worrying when I keep seeing similar motorhomes on UK Ebay that someone's bought then found a leak, stripped back to nothing, then abandoned the project. Don't want to get to a

[VK]

Fantastic actually supplies a foam gasket with their fans-I've use them a couple of times with Dicor over the screw heads and flange. It seems if the company gives you a gasket-it should work...otherwise, regular putty tape will be fine between the flange and roof metal.

Also, having a pressure test done (or devising a way to do it yourself) will allow you to find leaks. It is a squirrel cage fan usually blowing down thru the roof vent and pressurizing the rig. Then one takes soap and sprays it here and there. Bubbles form at air leaks, which means water can get in. I'm trying to figure a way to do my vintage trailers without a roof vent. VK