All Discussions Tagged 'C' - Good Old RVs2024-03-29T01:59:59Zhttps://goodoldrvs.ning.com/forum/topic/listForTag?tag=C&feed=yes&xn_auth=noBest Shock Absorber Brand? (Class C)tag:goodoldrvs.ning.com,2016-03-04:2093474:Topic:2846992016-03-04T17:11:38.767ZTrue Northhttps://goodoldrvs.ning.com/profile/MinnieWhinee
<p><span>Greetings, I'm replacing my shock absorbers on my '89 Born Free 24ft RV (on a Ford E350 chassis). Price quoted for Monroes (install and parts) is coming in around $780.00.</span></p>
<p></p>
<p></p>
<p><span>1) Are there better shocks to consider for an RV my size (the rear dual axle carries a heavier load as the kitchen and bathroom are in rear)</span></p>
<p></p>
<p><span>2) Is this a good time to have stabilizers installed while they are under there? Or steering dampener and/or sway…</span></p>
<p><span>Greetings, I'm replacing my shock absorbers on my '89 Born Free 24ft RV (on a Ford E350 chassis). Price quoted for Monroes (install and parts) is coming in around $780.00.</span></p>
<p></p>
<p></p>
<p><span>1) Are there better shocks to consider for an RV my size (the rear dual axle carries a heavier load as the kitchen and bathroom are in rear)</span></p>
<p></p>
<p><span>2) Is this a good time to have stabilizers installed while they are under there? Or steering dampener and/or sway bar? </span></p>
<p></p>
<p><span>Perhaps I should start with the alignment and shocks and see if has a significant improvement in driver fatigue and the sway and bobbing? </span></p>
<p></p>
<p><span>Any insight is greatly appreciated. Thanks!</span></p> RV Mechanic referralstag:goodoldrvs.ning.com,2016-01-26:2093474:Topic:2824052016-01-26T00:37:20.409ZTrue Northhttps://goodoldrvs.ning.com/profile/MinnieWhinee
<p>Hi all. Can anyone recommend a good RV mechanic in the Los Angeles area (San Fernando Valley or Santa Clarita or Simi Valley is ideal but will take any leads!)?</p>
<p></p>
<p>My 89 Born Free is a wanderer on the highway and need to have the alignment done and look into after market suspension upgrade. </p>
<p></p>
<p>Appreciate any good, or bad, experiences you can share. Thanks!</p>
<p></p>
<p>GB</p>
<p>Hi all. Can anyone recommend a good RV mechanic in the Los Angeles area (San Fernando Valley or Santa Clarita or Simi Valley is ideal but will take any leads!)?</p>
<p></p>
<p>My 89 Born Free is a wanderer on the highway and need to have the alignment done and look into after market suspension upgrade. </p>
<p></p>
<p>Appreciate any good, or bad, experiences you can share. Thanks!</p>
<p></p>
<p>GB</p> 1978 Dodge 'Georgie Boy Cruise Master' - Roof / Ceiling Repairtag:goodoldrvs.ning.com,2015-08-06:2093474:Topic:2665142015-08-06T01:25:53.723ZTim Shanerhttps://goodoldrvs.ning.com/profile/TimShaner
<p>My wife has been wanting to get an RV to restore and we done did it. We picked up a 1978 Dodge Sportsman with a Georgie Boy Cruise Master box. (Class C of course).</p>
<p></p>
<p>It has more water damage than we thought including the cab-over area and the back half of the ceiling and roof. It looks like there was no real membrane or such on the roof so I'm guessing a replacement is in order.</p>
<p></p>
<p>To get started, I figured I'd start at the top and deal with the roof / ceiling…</p>
<p>My wife has been wanting to get an RV to restore and we done did it. We picked up a 1978 Dodge Sportsman with a Georgie Boy Cruise Master box. (Class C of course).</p>
<p></p>
<p>It has more water damage than we thought including the cab-over area and the back half of the ceiling and roof. It looks like there was no real membrane or such on the roof so I'm guessing a replacement is in order.</p>
<p></p>
<p>To get started, I figured I'd start at the top and deal with the roof / ceiling issues. So with that in mind, I have no real clue how to get started as I don't really know how this thing is constructed.</p>
<p></p>
<p>It looks like I'll need to pull down some cabinets but can't see how they are attached. Also, once I get all the goo scraped off the roof I assume I'll find plywood. I'm guessing there is a plywood sheathed roof on top of studs, hopefully some insulation and then the inner ceiling. I'm thinking the cabinets will need to come down to deal with the ceiling issue.</p>
<p></p>
<p>My plan would be to remove the upper cabinets first, so how do I do that?</p>
<p></p>
<p>Then I would scrape the roof and see what I have. Do I need to remove any trim around the roof or ?</p>
<p></p>
<p>Totally out of my element here and looking for any and all help.</p>
<p></p>
<p>I do have car restoration and wood working / construction experience so I think the key is understanding the construction of this beast. Are there any diagrams / books / blueprints out there that show any of that?</p>
<p></p>
<p>Long post but any help is much appreciated!</p> Winterizing Class Ctag:goodoldrvs.ning.com,2014-11-16:2093474:Topic:2392232014-11-16T00:19:40.304ZRandall Brinkhttps://goodoldrvs.ning.com/profile/RandallBrink
With thanks to members here who posted How To narratives and advice, I have completed Winterizing my motorhome as best I could; however there is one aspect I am not completely satisfied with: Evidently my older Shur-flow fresh water pump is simply not up to the task of pressurizing the hot water lines once the hot water tank is filled.(Note: I did not notice that there was no tank by-pass prior to starting the winterization project.) Consequently, all I get out of all three hot water faucets is…
With thanks to members here who posted How To narratives and advice, I have completed Winterizing my motorhome as best I could; however there is one aspect I am not completely satisfied with: Evidently my older Shur-flow fresh water pump is simply not up to the task of pressurizing the hot water lines once the hot water tank is filled.(Note: I did not notice that there was no tank by-pass prior to starting the winterization project.) Consequently, all I get out of all three hot water faucets is air and no water. Cold water side is fine and I have manually filled the traps and lines to grey water tank.<br />
<br />
Now, a theory I have developed is that there may be no real harm in this as, if all there is in those lines is air, they won't freeze, but I'd like to hear thoughts and comments on this anomaly, and why the pump simply won't fill the hot water side of the system. Would a newer, higher output Shur Flow be a good idea? (My pump is, after all, 36 years old!)