Hello All,

Well, we have discovered low compression on 3 cylinders... about 50 psi and think it is a ring/cyl problem.  The main symptom is a rough idle. 87,000 original miles

We are making room in the barn to park it and would like the membership's input on how to remove the engine.

1) The side door is only wide enough to maybe move the block thru.

2) The front opening is too small.

3) Remove the entire front fiberglass piece!

4) Remove the engine from the bottom

5) Remove one of the front windscreens

 

Thanks  Steve

 

 

 

Tags: Allegro Engine Removal, Class A Allegro Engine Removal, How to remove the engine in an Allegro Motorhome

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Oh Steve, you have my worst fear ahead of you.   I only know what I have been told, and that is NOT by anyone that has actually done the work or had it done...the people I have spoke to all say the entire front end has to be removed.  Seems strange to me that with all the class A's like ours that no one has done or had the engine pulled.  I have looked at mine that is similar to yours and it is the only way I can see.  That really makes me shudder, especially on the road some where.  I wish I could add some good news, keep us posted and good luck.  Pete

Hi Steve,

My soon to be ex-husband and I have looked at these chassis and have come to the conclusion that there is no way to get them out without taking the fiberglass front off.  I am not sure but you might be able to remove the heads and then take it out from the bottom if you remove the exhaust.  Either way it is going to be a pain.  Do a leakdown test to make sure wether you need to just remove the heads or if the compression loss is coming out of the bottom end.  Compression tests only tell you that you have loss not where it is coming from. There is no point in removing the engine if you have a burnt valve.

Good luck,

Marty Vallero

Thanks for your reply.

I will post the results of the comp check in feb.

Hi Steve,

   My two cents worth here.  If you run your normal comp check and then squirt some motor oil in the spark plug hole then run it again.  If the comp comes up....rings ect.  If no diff.... valves ect.  The oil will seal the rings.  If you have valve/top end trouble oil makes no diff. "see Martys advice" leak down test.

 

  As far as engine removal, Strip it to a short block.  And out into the coach and out the entry door.  I work on a lot of boats and face simular issues.  Not being able to see your setup/challenge.  I would guess.  1. Remove front seats and block up a cross bar to hoist short block up out of the hole.  2. Lay a long 2x12 or so from front of engine to door your going out.  Lay out 3 or 4 pieces of pipe cross ways and a piece of plywood on top of pipe. 3. Lower engine onto plywood and roll on pipe to your door.  As the pipe comes out just add to other end.  I have moved some very big heavy  stuff this way.  4. Reach thru the door with a cherry picker and take out short block.  Hope this helps,  Fair winds and good luck.  Tony and Joy

Looks like a winner to me.  Even if you (in my case) had to remove other furniture between the front and the door it would still be less invasive than removing the front shell.  I hope that I never have to have this done (at this point in my life I refuse to work that hard) but at least I can pass this on to the person I hire to do the work.  The last time I thought to myself "I can do that" and did, I ended up hiring someone else to finish the job when I put my back out of place again.  The worst part (beside the pain) was admitting that my wife was right all along.  Pete and Gigi (The Drive-by Tourists)
Steve, I like Tony & Joy's idea of pulling the block from inside. Slap on the head for me not thinkin of it!

The folks at Tiffin replied and said they pull the heads first and then remove the engine through the Driver Door with a frame.

This sounds good to me.

Ok. great to see "step-by-step" pictures of the "experience" when you do it.

(grumble, grumble... they should make the folks who design things like this do the work. No fixin stupid)

Do a -leak down test- on the engine, you may find that it only needs a valve job.

J

Sorry for resurrecting an old thread, but I'm looking at an '84 Allegro this weekend. It's either a 27 or a 30 - can't tell from the pics. It has 2 ACs which makes me think it's a 30 but I don't know.

In any event, I can get this thing for next to nothing. Owner (which is the company that towed it when the engine failed) claims everything works - both ACs, fridge, all gas appliances. Generator "needs carb work". Looking at the pics, it seems someone set out to go camping and experienced an unfortunate engine failure. It looks really well maintained.

The 454 threw a rod and needs to come out. I've taken engines out of lots of things. But how do I get it out of this one. Is there a follow-up to this story? How hard is it to remove the fiberglass nose? Should I take the short block out the driver's door?

Any advice would be appreciated.

In this case a valve job was needed. All the other stuff you do like fuel pump, water pump, removing the old smog pumps ect. A new 5 pass radiator and cooling fans were installed. Rear main seal. These projects have " scope creep". But, it's done and the engine runs and idles good. My aunt gave me this Alegro and I've spent a lot of time and money to bring it to a level of reliability that is expected. Other things like servicing and adjusting the Onan generator, replacing the tank level system all are things that you expect to work reliably but may not. So in my humble view, these RVs are more of a restoration project than a repair and go.

After reading the following post, I need to add my 2 1/2 cents.   Its a pain, but like the recommendation below says,, remove the heads, Acc.,(alt,p.s. pump, a/c unit etc) from the block. Have some plywood along the path to the door, moving out of the way,anything that will hinder the moving process.

I talked to good friend of mine and he took the nose off and still ended up going thru the cabin to remove the engine.

So, taking off the nose is basically  adding MORE time to the swap. He said, 2 people can manuver the block to the side door and then hooking up the cherry picker and finishing the removal,, the reverse the process,,, sliding in a short block (block with heads removed) then installing and finishing up with the heads installed.

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