Hello All,

Well, we have discovered low compression on 3 cylinders... about 50 psi and think it is a ring/cyl problem.  The main symptom is a rough idle. 87,000 original miles

We are making room in the barn to park it and would like the membership's input on how to remove the engine.

1) The side door is only wide enough to maybe move the block thru.

2) The front opening is too small.

3) Remove the entire front fiberglass piece!

4) Remove the engine from the bottom

5) Remove one of the front windscreens

 

Thanks  Steve

 

 

 

Tags: Allegro Engine Removal, Class A Allegro Engine Removal, How to remove the engine in an Allegro Motorhome

Views: 1542

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

Thanks for the replies.

I figured that with something this old there would be more restoration work than routine maintenance. My first objective will be to get it mobile. After that, I'll see what it needs.

I'm going to look at it tomorrow.

  Jim, not being there nor having run any compression or leak down checks, if only 3 cylinders exhibit lower compression, might the problem be valves on those cylinders instead of  rings or cylinder?? If the other cylinders are acceptable and close in PSI to each other, its easier to pull the heads then the entire engine would be my guess. Then if you end up having to pull it all the heads are already off.

 Rough idling you mentioned may be vacuum leaks or valve problems ya know.

 Just a thought, your RV your money your call, its always fun to hear peoples opinions on such, to each their own, however.

 Best wishes God Bless and Merry Christmas

  John T 

Thanks for the suggestion, but the original poster had the issue back in 2010. This is why I hate bringing up old threads but this was a near perfect match for my issue and I was hoping Steve would provide a post mortem since so much time had passed.

But....sounds like Steve got lucky and just needed some top end work. "Mine" (it isn't mine yet) threw a connecting rod. At a minimum the block will need sleeved, but the rod may have damaged it beyond repair. I haven't see it yet. Going to look at it in about half an hour.

If all it needs is an engine I'll snag it. 454 blocks seem to plentiful and relatively inexpensive. I can rig something up to get the engine out the door. I actually have a rig for dropping FWD drivetrains out the bottom of cars, I'm sure I can tweak it in such a way that I can use it to lift the engine into the cab.

Why do you suspect the piston/ring/cylinder area instead of the valves?    Have you tested to verify?  Having a few bad cylinders would be rare unless the engine was severely overheated and run that way.

If you haven't already done this - you need to check compression after squiring oil in the spark-plug hole.  If after adding oil -the compression stays low - the problem is a valve and not the cylinder/piston.  If it DOES rise after adding oil  - then I guess you are on the correct track.  Like I said though, that would be rare unless some sort of disaster took place.  Rings rarely wear in modern engines.  The cylinder walls get scored, piston ring-grooves get overly wide, rings get scratched, etc.  So when it does happen - you often cannot fix just by fixing or replacing pistons and re-ringing.  

If you had pistons and cylinders in such bad shape that compression cannot rise above 50 PSI - then it ought to smoke something awful and foul plugs when it's running.  I.e., if compression leaks down, then oil will leak up.

I assume since you want to pull the engine - you plan on boring the cylinders oversize - or just replace the engine?

By the way, even if you had a few cylinders so bad that you only read 50 PSI when testing - that's only at 300 RPM I assume when cranking with the starter motor.  Once the engine runs and RPM is well over 1000 RPM, those worn cylinders would make enough compression to fire.  A compression reading is a measurement of compression leakage in a certain time-frame.  Any cylinder that makes 50 PSI when cranking will make more when the engine is running IF it's a cylinder problem.  Not the case if the problem is a valve or valve-seat.

I looked at it - I'll post a new thread for opinions.

Related to this thread, though, I think the block is salvageable. Seems like a wristpin came loose. Pushed the piston into the head. Lots of bent things, but I'd be willing to bet I could sleeve the cylinder. Even better would be if I could get away with boring it out. In any event, engine needs to come out.

RSS

Members

HOW TO MEMBER POSTS

  •         How To Links 

-Search Good Old RV's

-Start a New Group 

-Roof Repair Photos & Products

-Repair an RV Roof

-Pick Roof Sealer   

-Understanding RV Electrical Systems 

-Get RV Insurance   

-What to Look For When Buying a Used RV

-Jack Installs Fuel Injection in his Dodge 

 RV ARTISTS 

 Paige's VintageTrailer Art  

 Paige's VintageTrailerFabric

 Artist Roads                                            Sandy's Stained Glasshttps://www.pinterest.com/pin/552605816752050167/     

                      

COME JOIN US on GOOD OLD RVS

If you love classic and vintage RVs then come Join us. Come on in and have some fun. JOIN HERE NOW

Forum

1992 C Coachmen 2 Replies

Started by S.Heins in Class C RV discussions. All things Class C related.. Last reply by Kevin F Smith on Friday.

Steel valve stems

Started by Jack Wasmuth in RV Repair & Maintence Oct 28.

Heart Attack 2 Replies

Started by Russell E Johnson in General Discussion Forum. Last reply by Russell E Johnson Oct 22.

Events

Videos

  • Add Videos
  • View All

JOIN US - COME ON IN!

If you love classic and vintage RVs then come Join us.

 Come on in and have some fun.         JOIN HERE NOW!

 Dedicated to a simpler, more rewarding and fun way of life in a Good Old RV... 

Vintage Travel Trailers, Vintage Campers, Camper Restoration, Bus Conversions, Vintage RV Forums, Old RVs, Tiny Homes, Boondocking

YOUR OWN GORVs T-Shirt!

A work of art by member Paige Bridges

Get your Good Old RVs T-Shirt HERE

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

 Disclaimer - Please Read it

Enjoy this site and use it totally at your own risk.

By using or viewing this site YOU agree to Hold Harmless anyone associated with it including other members. Also, YOU agree that YOU are solely responsible for ANY and ALL actions, results or damages. Members "opinions" are just that and any repair or alteration comments or recommendations are by folks who are not licensed repair  or mechanical professionals. Any repairs or modifications you do totally at YOUR OWN RISK. Use licensed professionals for all work to avoid possible serious injury or damage. Use  banks for purchases.  Have fun!

Copywrite & Trade Mark Registered GoodOldRV© ,GoodOldRVs©, GoodOldRVs.com©,GoodOldRVs.net©,GoodOldRV.Com©

© 2019   Created by Russell E Johnson.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service