Best Shock Absorber Brand? (Class C)

[True North]

Greetings, I'm replacing my shock absorbers on my '89 Born Free 24ft RV (on a Ford E350 chassis). Price quoted for Monroes (install and parts) is coming in around $780.00.

1) Are there better shocks to consider for an RV my size (the rear dual axle carries a heavier load as the kitchen and bathroom are in rear)

2) Is this a good time to have stabilizers installed while they are under there? Or steering dampener and/or sway bar?  

Perhaps I should start with the alignment and shocks and see if has a significant improvement in driver fatigue and the sway and bobbing? 

Any insight is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

[Jack Wasmuth]

I have a 21 ft class c Dodge with a 10,000 lb gross weight . I have front and rear sway bars and air bags on rear and it is a dream to drive.  I have Monroe gas shocks.

Sway bars are worth their weight in gold. Good rv gas shocks are good for class c motor homes. I would replace warn parts and add sway bars and the last would be an alignment.

[Matthew Tritt]

Jack! I thought you'd fallen off the edge of the Earth! Can you report on the performance of your new fuel injection system now that you've had it long enough to pass judgement? Still wating to hear the news before I take the leap.

[Jack Wasmuth]

Matt I did not think that anyone was interested in my two cents worth. But DAMN do I ever love it. I still have not taken the trip to Colorado as I had planned but I am going this June for sure.

I am getting on average 2 - 21/2 more miles per gallon. This is with freeway and mountain driving combined. And I love the smooth acceleration and added power.

I highly recommend this unit from Affordable Fuel Injection. They are very knowledgeable and very helpful. I would get their distributor and add some length to the wire harness as I had to add wire for the O2 sensor to reach to the end of my header.

What is nice about this unit is that it is a stock GM TBI unit and all parts are available at all auto parts stores. The other after market units are tough to tune and parts are special order. So if you have a problem on the road almost any repair shop can work on it and get parts.

I would be willing to talk to you at length if you wanted to give me your phone number as I have free long distance calling.

Jack 253-475-4095

[Jimco_W001]

 Jack, inspecting everything including tire pressure will help make your journey much more enjoyable.

[True North]

Hello,

The shocks are the original from 1989.  The vehicle sways side to side, and bobs up and down enough that it feels dangerous to drive.  I investigated the Koni FDS but they do not make them for 1989 year.  I've been recommended Bilsteins over Monroe but not sure they are superior enough for the additional cost?

I've driven everything from a Class a 38' Pace Arrow to a 20ft. Class B.  And this is the worst ride of them all.  

Mechanic is checking if alignment is needed today but def need the shocks replaced.

He recommends I take the rig on a short road trip and see how it drives before I add steering dampeners or additional sway bars.  But he did think there is a basic sway bar on this unit but nothing substantial.  

For about $3500 they are doing the following FYI:

Replace rear brake shoes and seal drums, replace or resurface rear rotors + brake fluid

Replace both house and engine batteries (weak).

Remove radiator and seal small leak and replace related hoses + antifreeze

Replace exhaust manifold bolts (contributing to engine shake)

Re-seal entire roof with 10 tubes of Dicor (10 hours labor - including removing all old sealants)

Replace all shocks with Monroes

Will inflate all 6 tires based on weight of RV (I had each axle weighed on CAT scale - rear axle is carrying about 6K of the 10K total weight).

Replace tail light

Alignment and oil change update is pending (going to ask them to throw in the oil change labor)

I know this can be done for less but I found a highly recommended RV shop in Santa Clarita, CA and so far it's been on point and not feeling "taken for a ride".

Thoughts?

[Matthew Tritt]

Just to add more fuel to the fire - I would first check your tires to make sure that you're carrying enough pressure and that they are the right rating for the weight of your rig. After tires, I definitely recommend Bilsteins on both axles, as well as front and rear swaybars. Get a stabilizer if you have issues with steering wander, but it doesn't sound like that's what's going on from what you say. I replaced all the steering components from the fiber U-joint on down - including a new steering box - as well as all the stuff mentioned on my 73 Dodge class C (or super-B) and it steers and handles like a huge sportscar. :-)