I HAVE JUST GOT A 1970 D22 WINNABAGO. WITHOUT A MANUAL CAN ANYONE TELL ME IF THE ELEC PLUGINS ON THE INSIDE ARE 110? HOW DO THEY WORK ONLY WHEN PLUGGED IN TO THE OUTSIDE POWER? DOES THIS ALL RUN THOUGH THE CONVERT? YA IAM LOST WITH OUT A MANUAL. ANYONE KNOW WHERE TO GET ONE TO BUY OR DOWN LOAD?
THANK YOU, MITCH
I have a 1970 too. The 110 plugs inside only work when the RV is plugged in. The converter provides 12v for the lights, fans and appliances. The converter also charges the house batteries.
THANKS FOR THE REPLY TIM WILL HELP. DO YOU KNOW WHERE I CAN GET A OWNERS MANAUL OR MAYBE DOWN LOAD ONE. THAT WOULD HELP A LOT WITH THE OTHER TYPE ONE THINGS. DOES YOUR 1970 HAVE A 3RD TANK BACK OT REAR WHEELS? IF SO WHAT WOULD IT BEFORE. THE 2 GAS TANKS ARE RIGHT THERE TOGEATHER.
If what you call "plugins" look basically like the 3 pin standard household receptacles and there are usually two (ie can plug in 2 appliances) per outlet YES THOSE ARE 120 VOLTS. Hook up the RV to a 120 volt outlet then plug in an appliance to the RV's inside receptacles and see. What you call "plugins" I call standard residential 2 pole 3 wire Grounding 120 volt receptacles, usually in the duplex configuration and most often either 15 Amp NEMA 5-15R or 20 Amp NEMA 5-20R.
They ONLY work if the RV power cord is plugged into external AC Power (like at the campground when you drive up and plug in) because UNLESS your RV has a Generator or a hardwired inverter.
CONVERTER QUESTION Most RV's have a built in Converter/Charger. It CONVERTS 120 VAC to 12 VDC to power up 12 volt lights and 12 volt vent fans and water pumps etc. Its usually also a CHARGER which is used to charge the RV house battery so if youre plugged in the lights dont run the battery down.
I doubt you have one, but an INVERTER is the opposite, it changes 12 VDC to 120 VAC.
Many of that vintage RV have a single combination power appliance panel which contains the Converter/Charger,,,,,,The AC Power distribution circuit breakers,,,,,,,The 12 VDC distribution fuses. They usually HUM and produce heat
THANK YOU FOR THAT. ON THE CONVERTER THERE IS A SWITCH THAT IS MARKED IN ONE POSITION BATTERY AND THE OTHER ONE IS LINE. WHEN SWITCHED TO LINE A HAVE NOTHING FOR POWER INSIDE, BUT ON BATTERY I HAVE LIGHTS BUT STILL NO 110. THERE IS A BREAKER BOX WITH 2 BREAKERS. THE ONE HAS 2 SWITCHES THE OTHER IS JUST1. THE 2 TOGEATHER DON'T ACT LIKE THEY OR GOOD FOR THEY ARE NOT TIGHT WHEN RESET. ARE THIS A SPIECAL IONE OR CAN THEY BE BOUGGHT AT A ELEC SUPPLY STORE. I DO HAVE A GENERATOR BUT TE MOTOR HAS A HOLE IN THE PISTON AND CANN'T FIND ANY INFO ON IT. WHEN I ASK THE MANUFACTEOR I GIVE THEM THE MODEL AND SERIAL NUMBERS BUT THEY SAY THAT IT CAN NOT BE FOUND IN THEIR INFOR. CAN I REBUILD THIS ONE BUY REPLACING PISTON AND RINGS WITH ONES THAT WILL BE A BIGGER BORE OR IS THERE A WAY TO REPLACE WITH A NEW MOTOR?
So many questions, so little time lol just kidding
WHEN SWITCHED TO LINE A HAVE NOTHING FOR POWER INSIDE, BUT ON BATTERY I HAVE LIGHTS BUT STILL NO 110.
If the RV isnt plugged into shore power theres no 120 VAC power inside, where would it come from regardless where the switch is set??? When on BATTERY the RV's internal 12 volt car type battery (if you have one and its charged up) is what feeds inside 12 volt lights and vent fans and water pumps etc.
If youre plugged into shore power, that Converter/Charger charges the battery so the 12 volt lights and vent fans and water pump dont run it down AND THEY CONTINUE TO WORK.
AGAIN......when you plug into shore power with the big black cord that powers up the 120 VAC breaker distribution panel so 120 volt loads like an AC and those outlet/receptacles you mentioned inside can work.
Theres an inside RV house 12 volt battery and that powers 12 volt lights and vent fans and water pump etc AND THAT ALL WORKS IF YOURE PLUGGED IN OR NOT, ITS THE BATTERY THAT FURNISHES THE 12 VDC.
HOWEVER the battery will eventually run down UNLESS youre plugged into shore power which operates the Converter/Charger that charges the battery all the time youre plugged in. The Converter means it converts 120 VAC to 12 VDC
while the Charger means it can also charge the battery
THERE IS A BREACHER BOX WITH 2 BREACKERS. THE ONE HAS 2 SWITCHES THE OTHER IS JUST1. THE 2 TOGEATHER DON'T ACT LIKE THEY OR GOOD FOR THEY ARE NOT TIGHT WHEN RESET. ARE THIS A SPIECAL IONE OR CAN THEY BE BOUGGHT AT A ELEC SUPPLY STORE.
Those small breakers are RV and Mobile Home type, I doubt elec houses have them but Im not sure. When toggled they should feel like they snap in and hold in the ON position, however, they can go bad in which case they simpy refuse to hold IN Hard for me to say sittin here, sorry
I DO HAVE A GENERATOR BUT TE MOTOR HAS A HOLE IN THE PISTON AND CANN'T FIND ANY INFO ON IT. WHEN I ASK THE MANUFACTEOR I GIVE THEM THE MODEL AND SERIAL NUMBERS BUT THEY SAY THAT IT CAN NOT BE FOUND IN THEIR INFOR. CAN I REBUILD THIS ONE BUY REPLACING PISTON AND RINGS WITH ONES THAT WILL BE A BIGGER BORE OR IS THERE A WAY TO REPLACE WITH A NEW MOTOR?
Generator repair can be expensiveeeeeeee Id be shopping for a used one on Craigs List or Flea Bay or local RV dealers. They have to be high enough KVA (typical 2.5 to 4 or 5 KVA) to run your AC but still fit in the available genny storage compartment. If you not exprienced I doubt you can undertake that. the require a gas supply and elec wiring and remote switches and exhaust etc etc.
Thank you so much. This has realy been a great help and gives me the answers and a plce to start. The brackers will be the first thing to replace and belive that will be the answer to the biggest share of the problem.
as for the generator I will look for a used one to replace it with on the sites you sujested. Will also check to see if there is a place around here to possible rebuild the gas motor on it.
would you know where I maybe able to find a owners manual or a site that I may down load it? This would be a great help to. That may put a lot of light on the subject too.
I may have jumped the gun a bit on that generator question. Im always thinking/assumingf the older Onan units while some RV's of that vintage were powered by seperate Kohler or other make gas engines WHICH CAN BE MORE EASILY AND CHEAPLY REBUILT as they stand alone and seperate NOT part of a whole Onan type of unit...You have to talk to someone knowledgeable who is standing there looking at the unit which we cant do over the net
Anytime I'm looking for a Manual, I BING or GOOGLE something like "Download Manual Onan Emerald 4000" or something like that to fit the genny I have.......
PS back in the day I owned several of those vintage Winnebagos and loved them all. Pressurized galvanized water tank systems and all. Many had Dodge 413 truck Engines and the 727 Torqueflyte Trannys which were almost bulletproof. They were "Good Old RV's"
I HAVE JUST PICKUP A ONAN GENSET. MODEL IS A 5.0 AJ FROM A CLASS A MOTORHOME. IT HAS A RPM OF 3600. WILL THIS BE TO MUCH FOR MY D22? HOW HARD WOULD IT BE TO WIRE IT IN THE D22? IAM GUESSING THAT IT WOULD BE TO BIG AND A LOT OF WORK TO REWIRE IT. IF NOTHING ELSE I HAVE SOMETHING FOR TRADING. I GOT IT FROM MY DAUGHTER BOY FREIND WHO OWNS A WRECKING YARD. HE SAID IT MAY NEED A FUEL PUMP. GOT IT CHEAP ENOUGH SO HAVE ROOM TO WORK WITH
I wouldnt say its "to much" to answer your question, if thats an older Winnebago Class A it wouldnt be too heavy, its more a question if theres room to mount it somewhere like in an old generator compartment???? If you can hang/mount/fit it somewhere so its vented and and run the exhaust pipe out a couple inches past the side botton of the RV IT CAN WORK.
If you can find a manual they always well describe mounting requirements and clearances etc. Its NOT rocket science or too critical, they need air circulation and often vent the cooling air out the bottom somewhere and are mounted on big rubber cushion bumpers.
Wiring is the EASY PART. Its easy to wire a standard RV 30 amp 120 volt receptacle on the gennys output so your RV's power cord with its (Im assuming???) plug fits. When driving or dry camping the RV cord is plugged into the gennys output receptacle but if at an RV park its plugged instead to teh RV parks outlet. This assumes the genny is a 120 volt, it can still work if the genny is a 120/240 however.
They usually use a low pressure 12 VDC electric fuel pump, thats easy to wire and plumb, but the trick is to use the gennys On/Off circuitry that powers the fuel pump ONLY when the genny is being operated and they usually get gas out of the main tank but with its own tube that doesnt go all the way to the tanks bottom so the genny cant run you completely out of gas. If it already had some sort of a genny that seperate genny gas line would already be there and they often had a generator compartment back in one rear corner.
This is something I could do if there (worked on old RV's most of my life) but if youre inexperienced it can be quite a chore..... Theres not much more I can do over the internet.
NOTE exhaust piping and venting is fairly critical, you dont want to wake up dead due to carbon monoxide poison. The rest of it isnt as critical as long as theres air and heat venting etc and proper electric fuel pump circuitry.
John T Long retired electrical engineer
THERE IS NO 120 OR 240 PLUG INS ON THIS ONE LIKE THE OLD ONE. ALL IN HAS IS A PLG IN THAT IS SQURE AND LOOKS TO HOLD 4 WIRES. OTHER THAN THERE IS A HEAVY RED WIRE ALMOST A CABLE. IAM WOULD GUESS THAT IS FOER BATTERY. WILL TRY TO FIND A MANUEL OR SOMEBODY CLOST TO LOOK AT IT. THANK YOU AGAIN FOR YOUR IDEAS AND OPION ALL THESE AND THEY READY DO HELP.
If the onboard outlet/receptacle is a 4 prong (2 Hots, Neutral, Ground) that could be???? a generator that was used on a bigger Class A RV that had TWO ROOFTOP AIR CONDITIONERS. Modern large Class A's use a 4 prong (3 pole 4 wire grounding) 120/240 volt 50 amp power cord. One leg of 120 powered one AC the other 120 leg powered the other roof AC. It can still work for your needs but it sounds like you better get someone who knows this stuff, although its still not all that complicated or expensive to wire it up.
Yep the big red battery cable looking wire is probably for the + of the starting battery while the black Neg often wires to the case/frame.
Talk to a small engine repair shop about repairing the gen set. It maybe cheaper to rebuild than replace. If you do buy a replacement unit that is used......bring someone with you that knows about engines. Just don't want to see you get screwed with someone junk.