I am the antithesis of a handy person. I have huge interest, big ideas, and little skill--apart from sewing.

So I am approaching the task of installing flooring in my 1970 Ungers Crown Commander.

My husband removed all the previous flooring, so we are down to the base boards with plywood sheet overlay (photos attached, in case I'm not using the right words).

I have found many funky, exciting options for my flooring and hoped to get some feedback as to which route to go, in terms of both ongoing maintenance and ease of installation:

1.  vinyl squares that you glue to the floor (found some great retro colors)

2.  vinyl sheet/roll that you glue to the floor (again, great retro colors available)

3.  vinyl faux wood planks that you peel and stick to the floor (easy and goes with everything)

4.  floating, interlocking pieces of wood laminate (somehow this is good for "expansion?")

5.  something else?

I already own enough of the #3 vinyl faux wood peel and stick planks to cover the RV.  Should I go ahead and lay them down so I at least have a floor for now, and then put some other flooring on top of it later? Is there any benefit to having it there as a base layer for future flooring?

I greatly appreciate any help. 

Stuck in the 70s,
Sara

Tags: floor, ungers, vinyl

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Hi,  I can't tell from the pictures the condition of the plywood.  Some materials (vinyl sheet goods) show imperfection in the substrate more than others (plank flooring).  I have never liked any of the peel and stick products.  In my experience they don't stick; they either move or shrink leaving gaps.   Of the choices mentioned, my favorite is vinyl sheet; easy to mop.  I would only glue around the edges to make future replacement easier.  I guess the best thing to maintain the floor would be not tracking in too much dirt, pebbles, etc.

Good Luck

RWC

Thanks, Richard.  That's helpful.  Have a great day!

This all comes down to personal taste. I am going to be redoing my floor in wooden 12" tiles. I prefer wood, but I also go them real cheap at a tag sale!. If you are going to do vinyl, go with the full sheet as opposed to the peel and stick, but read up on it and take your time, it's a little tricky if you've never done it and you need to make a pattern from paper first and trace it onto the sheet vinyl to cut. Don't rely on just measurements alone because I guarantee the walkway tapers or cants to one side or the other or is out of square. An 1/8" of an inch out of kilter at one end can wind up being well over an inch off by the time you cut ten feet or more.

I also hope you are going to put additional sub flooring down over that plywood. A tempered Masonite or hardboard. The gaps in the plywood with show through anything other than a solid wood board or tile and the vinyl sheeting will actually begin to sever or at least crack there at the gap as you continue to walk on it. A proper sub floor is more important that what you put on top of it as far as how it will look and last.

You cannot have any gaps in your floor prep , or screw or nail holes either. Anything under vinyl will be transmitted through it as the sheet molds itself to whatever it is sitting on.

We have used two vinyl products in the past with great sucess. We used a vinyl peel and stick floating type floor (installs like laminate using nothing more than a razor blade cutter) in the bathroom of our 75 Winnebago Indian. I love this floor because it is easy clean and easy wipe and was super easy to install. We also used regular peel and stick on the main area in the Winnebago with quite a bit of success. The key to that was to buy some 3M adhesive spray and put it down under the peel and stick. Be warned however once you put the floor down using the adhesive spray the tiles will stick to the point they are difficult to get up. My husband had installed the peel and stick tiles in the bathroom using this method in low light and in the daylight we found out he had laid them crooked. Hence why we have the floating floor in the bathroom because when we went to peel them up it was taking the subfloor with it. If you want peel and stick and stay stuck use 3M spray!

I appreciate your sharing your experiences and lessons learned, Tammy.  Great info on the peel and stick!  Thanks!

 

Sara

Great tips, Jim, especially about the subflooring and using the pattern (will have to figure out a good way to make the pattern).  Thank you for taking the time to respond to my question!

 

Sara

This might go by several names, but what you want is a roll of heavy paper from a flooring place or even lowes or an art store. It is used primarily by service people or contractors for laying down on a floor or carpet to protect it from dirty footprints etc. We used to call it rosin paper when I was in the trades. You roll it out and cut it with scissors or a utility knife to fit whatever space you are putting it on. Around corners, pipes, whatever, and use masking tape to piece it together. Then you lift it off the floor and lay it down on your roll of vinyl and trace out the paper outline and cut. Now you have a perfect pattern of the floor. There is always some site on youtube or wherever to watch this being done. Take your time and you'll be fine.

I agree with Jim on this however since I was unable to locate this paper when I was doing my floor we just ended up with newspaper and a roll of masking tape. Word from those who have learned the hard way use the sections that they have printed columns on and not the ads...ads fall apart.

Probably i am late in the game for you but I have been a professional floor installer for 40 years in buildings. I currently am making the same decisions for a 1975 dutchcraft we are restoring. If you use any vinyl product please put down the recommended substrate ( we use 1/4 birch ply material) Ask for underlayment at any box store. Nail or screw it down on pattern marks that are printed on the boards, countersink nails and use a leveler mix product to fill nail holes and joints in the trailer because it will move I would tape the joints with a mesh tape and overlay them with floor filler so the joint lines don't imprint. We are using glue down cork floor in ours. Its soft warm extremely durable and water resistant. I install a lot of it professionally. Good luck and safe travels..

just a thought. what I did in my 76 xpoler is fixed the plywood where needed. Than I got the carpet that they sell for the ground cover when you set up camp . the stuff you use out doors as a floor in the shade of the awning. I cut it to size and use 2 sided tape to hold it down near the edges. it last pretty good and when it needs replacing, just pull it up and use the old one as a pattern to cut a new one. it's about $25 to cover the whole floor and feels good under the feet.  just an option!

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