The Furnace in My 1968 Spotty Sportster is a Hydro Flame. It hangs on the end of Cabinet where stove & oven are. It is Vented out side behind the door. Since there is no battery in the Camper I was wondering if it worked by convection. It looks like it has some kind of Thermostat on outside of Heater. I Googled it & all I came up with those that are in pop ups. Anyone know about this Heater. Id like to see if it works. Stove & Oven work fine. Wishbone-Ks

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Its pretty common in older small RV's to use those type of convection furnaces that require no AC or DC power source as theres no fan forced air. They draw fresh combustion air in from the outside and vent the exhaust gasses also outside, of course. Things to look for are mud dawber nests or other critters building homes and clogging up the intake or exhaust air passages, I usually take my air compressor blow gun and blow air into the intake so it vents out the exhaust until she blows out all the crud. BEFORE I lit it Id remove any protective screen/grill (inside and out wherever possible) and thoroughlly clean everything and any place it comes in contact with. Other then a failed thermocouple now n then they dont go bad very often as long as the air flow (in and out) is clean and open.

HOWEVER theres no way Id use it or any RV furnace for that matter, I would want a good working CO Detector,,,,,A good working LP Gas Detector,,,A good working smoke detector. NOTE the thermostat action on those tends to let it get really hot before it shuts down, after which it can get pretty cold before it lights again brrrrrrrrrrr lol seems like a 5 to 10 degree differential unlike a forced air furnace which are more like 3 degrees differential.

Id guess its a manual light model with a pilot light and thermocouple, so once the intake and exhaust air passages are good n clean and all else is cleaned up you can try to light it and then you can tell if the thermocouple is working. NOTE before lighting the gas has to be turned on DUH and there may be a small in line brass lookin shut off valve right at the heater. I have to advise all that, including the shut off valve, be leak checked. Once youre sure all is well, light it and see how she works and as I said they have few problems other then the thermocouple can go bad in which case the pilot wont stay lit after you release the button after an initial 15 to 30 seconds of manual (hold button down) over ride. If alls well and you have all three of the detectors I mentioned then Id use it.

Clean the air flow passages and all else and leak check it and install detectors and give her a whirl........

John T in Indiana PS If youre unsure about all this use a professional RV service tech other then do it yourself, Carbon Monoxide or LP Gas can cause you to wake up DEAD

Thanks John for the Info. Looks like its not worth fixing. Buying all the Detectors I don't think its worth it. most camp grounds I camp in the Fall I have Elect. I have an Electric heater We used last Fall. When I had My Pop Up I used a Terra Cotta Clay pot turned upside down on stove. Upside down radiated the heat out in a Circle. Open Roof vent a little & Turn burner on. Kept us warm for Years. Might do the Same in trailer. There is an Exhaust Vent above Stove & I can open Roof Vent for fresh Air. Just something to take the Chill off. I can take the Cold but not the Heat. I don't like sitting in Camper with A/C on all Day. I'd rather be sitting out in the Open next to a Nice Fire. Wishbone-ks

Youre sure welcome, hey using a stove for heat and not using CO and LP Detectors, "Youre a braver man then I" Best wishes with it and have safe and happy camping days ahead of you......

John T

Well I checked out CO & LP detectors & found out they wernt that expensive. I think I'll order both & try fixing My Heater. My next door Neighbor runs His own RV Mobile RV repair business & I can get him to check it out if I have any concerns. He has almost 30 Years experience & a lot of local RV dealers call him when they have a Customer at a Lake somewhere. Wishbone

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