When I turn on the 110v switch it blows the GFI in my MH. I've tried different cords in the shop & when I ran the #12 cord directly to the house GFI, it blew that one also. If I plug the refer directly to the extension cord it works just fine. Any suggestions?

Tags: 110v, Converter, Electrical, Fridge, GFI, Refrigerator

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have you changed the gfi to a new one they make a tool to check if you are grounding out also

Yes

  I have seen plenty of GFCI's go bad after time. For no more then the cost you might try a new one. If the fridge blows a new GFCI and there are NO OTHER APPLIANCES IN THE CIRCUIT I suspect a small fault current leak in the fridges heater circuit. It only takes around 5 milliamps of leakage current to trip them you know and that's not much whereby an appliance could still "work" yet there's still enough fault leakage current to trip a good GFCI.

 Often there are other loads and circuits on a GFCI (its output LOAD side)  besides what's plugged directly into them and those NOT the fridge may be causing the trip. HOWEVER as you know if you plug the fridge directly into another circuit/plug/cord/home which does NOT trip a good GFCI the fridge is NOT the problem so look for other circuits or loads wired downstream to the GFCI. The back of the GFCI has an input side (for devices plugged into it) and a downstream load side to which wires are attached for other downstream loads. If it has load wires connected to the load side, remove that and see what happens?? If it doesn't trip with the load side removed, those NOT the fridge, is the problem. 

 John T

Great info, that will help narrow it down anyway. 

Thanks

Ray

Could be you have a ground fault in the MH AC system. GFI's are usually very sensitive little buggers and will trip at the slightest hint of a short to ground. What makes it a problem in an RV is that most everything is hidden away in hard to get to areas - as you know. You can buy a simple ground fault detector at any hardware store that plugs into any standard 120 volt wall socket and turn breakers on one at a time to pin down the problem.

Good luck!

back in the day they used brass style cartridge heater elements that were later replaced by stainless.  we use to fire the fridge on lp gas to dry them out and then switch to electric.  that worked pretty good...thats a common place to give a gfi fits...that and the external 110v receptacle

...those always need a good sealing...

Thanks for all the great answers. Yes, I did replace the aged GFI. There is no AC so that discounts that. I have one of those Gnd Fault detectors somewhere. I'll have to find it and give the MH a once over. I appreciate all the info this is great I think I'll be able to narrow it down.

I'll try the LP test also, I haven't fired that up yet, I figured I'd get through the electrical first, didn't even consider something like that.

make and model of refer plz...

I hate to even mention this for fear of awakening the slumbering reefer gods, but my Hall came equipped with a "Trav'ler" sold by "Elixir" that is a 3-way that has virtually no electronics, no fan and is reliable as a rock. I think that its' 6 cu ft and has a reasonably big freezer. I highly recommend these units even though parts are virtual unobtainium.

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