Melvin gave us his great recommendation for restoring the finish of your fiberglass RV. Never tried it but sounds good. 


Recommendation by melvin b knowlton 17 hours ago

I would use  dicor  lap sealant caulk for that.  to restore the shine , the  best thing to do for these old fiberglass vehicles is to apply red max  floor finish that you can get  at  lowes, its the same thing as poli-glow that is sold for boats .  you just have to clean the  surface real well and remove all wax and apply 4 or 5 thin coats. it will shine  like new for  years.

Tags: Fiberglass RVs, How To Restore Old RV Fiberglass Finish, Restoring Fiberglass RV Finish

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I am whipped iam going to let  the local technical/vocatioal school airbrush the graphics back on in august they will do it for the cost of materials.  Thank the lord it whipped me LOL

Today (4/6/2014), I contacted Zep’s Tech Department (404-603-7902) to clear up some confusion as to where “Red Max Pro (Step 3)”, “Zep Wet Look Polish”, “Zep Wet Look Finish” and “Zep High Traffic Floor Polish” fit into the picture of availability and usage for reconditioning your RV fiberglass.

First, “Red Max Pro (Step 3)” was made by Zep.  The name, not the formula, was discontinued.

Next, “Zep Wet Look Polish” and “Zep Wet Look Finish” are synonymous. The name “Polish’ is used in California and other states where VOC regulations prohibit or restrict “Finishes”. Eventually the word “Finish” will be discontinued completely.

Zep suggests using the “Zep Hi-Traffic Floor Polish/Finish” product# ZUHTFF128 for commercial or RV applications where it encounters a harsh environment. It is a heavier grade than the ‘Wet Look Polish”, product ZUWTFF128. These product numbers relate to the one gallon size only. Five coats are suggested. Remember to do the prep steps mentioned in earlier blogs first though.

Since the nomenclature “(Step 3)” was referred to with these products, I asked “What was “Step 4” then”? Answer, the floor cleaner product.

Finally, according to the rep, the “Hi-Traffic Floor Polish” product# ZUHTFF128 that you will want to use on your RV is available at both Lowes and Home Depot. I would call their front desk and ask them to search their inventory listing to make sure they stock it and that it is, in fact, in stock B4 you drive in to buy it.

I hope this has been helpful to you.

Thanks for digging!  That eliminates a lot of confusion and uncertainty. We asppreciate your efforts very much!!

Lots of variables here. In my experience if you do not get the oxidation off the surface of the fiberglass, then you are simply covering over a problem and that oxidation will either keep your gloss product from bonding or it will end up causing a very milky haze within about a year of exposure to the sun. I think step number one is to use a good polishing compound ( not wax) such as a 3M or McGuire number 7 or Dupont # 3. A machine polish to about 1500 to 2500 rpm will strip the oxidation off. You may at that time find that your fiberglass of painted surface is now showing the glow you want and then you can wax it. If not, I suggest a good Wax and grease remover wiped over the entire surface. Then apply your Red Max Pro or Zep product to a clean of oxidation and clean of wax and grease surface. This will ensure a good bond of your product to your fiberglass or painted surface. If you do not remove the oxidation and put a product over top of the oxidation, I can not see how it will bond to the surface.  

This was exactly what I did on a 2001 Winnebago Adventurer, looked like new when I finished, since traded in for a 2010 Holiday Rambler 41ft 4 slides Diesel.

Jim, thanks for you confirmation of the process. Wow, you went BIG with your new rig. Get a vintage one to tow behind it :)

Hey folks, some good points being made. And, as a professional in automotive finishes, I must say that using floor wax is almost comical, but hey if it works, who cares what anybody thinks. But for the end user, which would be all of us, one would look for practical solutions, how to get them done, and at a price that's not going to wreck your budget. As to your existing stated by others here. The trick remove oxidation ( dead paint ) from the surface. In addition to the heavier scratches. There's a new generation of buffer that is taking over the restoration and refinish industry. It's the random orbital polisher. This is not to be confused with the old two handed polishers used to maintain an existing finish. Imagine if you will a variable speed polisher that spins 1500-6000 rpm. And if I use the example of the machine I tested myself, it has a 21mm throw. That means, in addition to the speed of the pad, it runs on a cam that throws it out of our imaginary orbit ( if you will ) greatly increasing your polishers effectiveness. It's a dual action. So now your polisher is doing a lot of the work your product used to do. You use less product , faster results. The machine I tested was a "Rubes" it's an Italian made buffer and system. But I'm not here to sell buffers. I'm here to help you guys. Once you understand this part of the process, then you understand how it changes the amount of work needed to get the results. Bottom line, get the dead paint off, then restore your finish however you choose. Like the man was saying. If you are going to put a clear coating over your existing surface, it will be like putting the surface under the spotlight, it will show off whatever finish you have. And it will last however long as these guys say it will. If done correctly. Now, your rolling down the road, looking like a king....with a smoothy in the drink holder with an umbrella.




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