Should wood framing be loose or tight on 69 camper?

[David Van de Water]

We have a 1969 Avalon Travel Trailer that had water damage inside the back and rear side walls.  After pulling the paneling off, I noticed the framing was not joined very tightly.  Each cross piece was able to be wiggled easily as they were attached only by a single nail.

Is this intentional or is it either shoddy workmanship or the effect of years of being flexed as the trailer was driven over uneven roadways?  

My question is if I should reinforce the joints?  And should I keep joints loose when replacing the rotted framing?  Is a flexible box less prone to leakage at the joints than a stiff one?  Seems counter-intuitive.

Thanks.

Dave

[Bruce]

Is this intentional or is it either shoddy workmanship or the effect of years of being flexed as the trailer was driven over uneven roadways?

Yes, all three.  Unfortunately most TT count on the outside skin(s) and inside paneling for a good deal of their stiffness.  When new all the framing was fairly tight, just that as a trailer is used things do get worked and loosen.  While I often heard "they don't build them like that anymore, quality then meant something".  Uh-huh, there is a reason vintage trailers are the minority in the campground, most of them fell apart just like the new ones will with use and time.  Been far enough inside one to know that the same guys are still using staple guns and whatever piece of wood is close.

Make it stiff!!  If things flex then paths for water will develop and then you get to do this all over again. Now for the other side of vintage trailers.  We get in there, replace some bad stuff, make it fit right and put some extra effort in keeping water out.  My guess is that most restored trailers, especially owner done, are much better now than they ever were coming from the manufacturer.  Don't believe me?  Your and I don't know all the shortcuts that make the job easier and faster, so we just plug away and do each thing to the best we can.  Since we don't know any better we make better fits and go the extra step because WE will be using it. 

[David Van de Water]

Thanks for the advice.  That was my instinct.  The challenge is how to add structure without lots of weight.  

Also--would using metal studs be wise?  I would think they would eliminate the rot problems.

Dave

[Bruce]

I don't think metal studs would be much of a benefit. I think the weight difference is negligible but if any water gets in you still have some wood and probably a piece of metal with some galvanizing missing; wood likes to rot around steel. Aluminum may be ok, depends on the fastener you use I guess.

Don't worry about adding structure, the original structure is probably up to the job. Work on stronger joints/connections. Driving a nail through the bottom plate into the stud works fine on a house, but a trailer moves while most houses are pretty sedentary. Despite my comments on metal, some sheet metal angle brackets would add tons of strength without much weight, something similar to the cheap shelf brackets you can buy. Glue or construction adhesive is a good idea as well. I am a sucker for GRK fasteners, a bit pricey mind you, but they will bury their head into endgrain wood before they spin out.

Most important is keeping the water out though. I think a lot of the problem with older trailers is road spray and windows. Many seem to have rot problems only on the lower half of the structure.

Bruce

Let us edit this to include any opening through the structure; windows, doors, vents and access hatches. One of the neatest ideas I have seen is once the restoration work is done, use aluminum tape around the opening with some overlap onto the siding and paneling. keep the overlap small enough that it is covered by trim and such. If you have an opening that has a worn seal the water may get into the trailer (which sucks) but not into the structure (which sucks even more).

[David Van de Water]

Thanks for reinforcing the principle of making things tighter.  The windows on my vehicle seem well sealed.  We've left them intact although we've removed the old steel nut screws with new stainless ones after polishing the aluminum frames, mainly for cosmetics.

The water in our unit comes from one top corner.   I will be replacing the entire framing structure, then will come back for advice on how best to clean up the globs of (ineffective) caulk slathered over the edge moulding and replace it in a way that will be more secure.  

Thanks for the info.