Winterizing Class C - Good Old RVs2024-03-28T16:11:50Zhttps://goodoldrvs.ning.com/forum/topics/winterizing-class-c?commentId=2093474%3AComment%3A249530&feed=yes&xn_auth=noLast winter I did not winteri…tag:goodoldrvs.ning.com,2021-07-25:2093474:Comment:4237462021-07-25T12:59:08.689ZGrey Wolfhttps://goodoldrvs.ning.com/profile/GreyWolf
<p>Last winter I did not winterize my Foretravel. I used electric heaters inside all winter instead. It got bitter cold here over the winter. The only problem I found after the winter was over was the bottom of my water filter froze and broke leaking water onto the floor. Everything else survived. I replaced the vintage water filter system. Next winter I WILL winterize. Hard lesson I learned. I did winterize the Toyota and had no problems. </p>
<p>Last winter I did not winterize my Foretravel. I used electric heaters inside all winter instead. It got bitter cold here over the winter. The only problem I found after the winter was over was the bottom of my water filter froze and broke leaking water onto the floor. Everything else survived. I replaced the vintage water filter system. Next winter I WILL winterize. Hard lesson I learned. I did winterize the Toyota and had no problems. </p> My thanks to everyone who rep…tag:goodoldrvs.ning.com,2015-03-12:2093474:Comment:2495302015-03-12T01:56:09.076ZRandall Brinkhttps://goodoldrvs.ning.com/profile/RandallBrink
My thanks to everyone who replied. I learned a great deal and will have the bypass in place before next winter. I am pleased to report that I just took the camper out of winter storage, and she made it through with no freeze breakage whatsoever.<br />
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Thanks again to all.
My thanks to everyone who replied. I learned a great deal and will have the bypass in place before next winter. I am pleased to report that I just took the camper out of winter storage, and she made it through with no freeze breakage whatsoever.<br />
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Thanks again to all. I agree. I worked for a very…tag:goodoldrvs.ning.com,2014-11-17:2093474:Comment:2399332014-11-17T17:07:14.181ZMatthew Tritthttps://goodoldrvs.ning.com/xn/detail/u_1xuchw22d2r3t
<p>I agree. I worked for a very big alternative energy wholesaler for a number of years as the head of the wind and pump departments. We sold lots of Shurflos, but mainly the direct submersible solar pumps, which were (relatively) cheap and very dependable - even if not exactly spectacular performers. Even thought there are "better" diaphragm pumps on the market,, you just can't beat em for price and dependability. BTW, I adapted the Shurflo pressure tank (if that's the right word for such a…</p>
<p>I agree. I worked for a very big alternative energy wholesaler for a number of years as the head of the wind and pump departments. We sold lots of Shurflos, but mainly the direct submersible solar pumps, which were (relatively) cheap and very dependable - even if not exactly spectacular performers. Even thought there are "better" diaphragm pumps on the market,, you just can't beat em for price and dependability. BTW, I adapted the Shurflo pressure tank (if that's the right word for such a small vessel), which is made to connect directly to the newer style pumps, to a 10 year old model. Works great, but tends to promote more water usage. </p> I think i still have some par…tag:goodoldrvs.ning.com,2014-11-17:2093474:Comment:2396242014-11-17T04:37:36.949Zdavid crafthttps://goodoldrvs.ning.com/profile/davidcraft
I think i still have some par pump parts on the shelf...they are old. Shurflo just did away with the 2088 and i was worried with the new model...the "Revolution" simply because im so distrustful of new products. I have had no complaints or issues with this pump to date and ive sold 20 or 30. It looks like Sureflo got it right.
I think i still have some par pump parts on the shelf...they are old. Shurflo just did away with the 2088 and i was worried with the new model...the "Revolution" simply because im so distrustful of new products. I have had no complaints or issues with this pump to date and ive sold 20 or 30. It looks like Sureflo got it right. Rats. I take it all back! The…tag:goodoldrvs.ning.com,2014-11-17:2093474:Comment:2397092014-11-17T02:51:41.283ZMatthew Tritthttps://goodoldrvs.ning.com/xn/detail/u_1xuchw22d2r3t
<p>Rats. I take it all back! The pump in the illustration is actually supposed to be some kind of motorized valve actuator, not a water pump. Like I said, bad drawing. On the other hand, the original pump was a P.A.R, with a cogged belt drive; same kind used in yachts and Airstreams. It would definitely do the job. However, after discovering that it was far less expensive to just replace the pump with a Shurflo than it was to get a few parts for the damned thing, that's what I did. The original…</p>
<p>Rats. I take it all back! The pump in the illustration is actually supposed to be some kind of motorized valve actuator, not a water pump. Like I said, bad drawing. On the other hand, the original pump was a P.A.R, with a cogged belt drive; same kind used in yachts and Airstreams. It would definitely do the job. However, after discovering that it was far less expensive to just replace the pump with a Shurflo than it was to get a few parts for the damned thing, that's what I did. The original was really LOUD and the water came in pulses.</p> After digging around through…tag:goodoldrvs.ning.com,2014-11-17:2093474:Comment:2397632014-11-17T02:42:10.102ZMatthew Tritthttps://goodoldrvs.ning.com/xn/detail/u_1xuchw22d2r3t
<p>After digging around through 40 years of manuals and receipts I found that it was made by "Cascade Winterizing Systems" of Bend, Oregon. It has two positions: winterize and bypass, and says that it protects to -60 deg F and has a Limited Lifetime Warranty! Geeze. I wonder if they'll fix it for free? Too bad it was installed in 1973 and nobody seems to know what happened to them. ;-) From the rather poor illustration in the manual, it looks like the pump might have been something like a…</p>
<p>After digging around through 40 years of manuals and receipts I found that it was made by "Cascade Winterizing Systems" of Bend, Oregon. It has two positions: winterize and bypass, and says that it protects to -60 deg F and has a Limited Lifetime Warranty! Geeze. I wonder if they'll fix it for free? Too bad it was installed in 1973 and nobody seems to know what happened to them. ;-) From the rather poor illustration in the manual, it looks like the pump might have been something like a Procon positive displacement rubber impeller type. As long as they don't stick to the pump body, those impellers will indeed create good pressure.</p> Wow...that was quite a system…tag:goodoldrvs.ning.com,2014-11-17:2093474:Comment:2396112014-11-17T02:14:16.164Zdavid crafthttps://goodoldrvs.ning.com/profile/davidcraft
Wow...that was quite a system you had...never seen one that complete. I was aware that the pump would lift up to 6 feet to prime they claim...at least in their prime..hehe.. But i had no idea they would actually pressure up a tank...like an accumulator tank! Thats news to me. Inthe repair industry I have seen them in some state of decline...usually failing to even prime..
Wow...that was quite a system you had...never seen one that complete. I was aware that the pump would lift up to 6 feet to prime they claim...at least in their prime..hehe.. But i had no idea they would actually pressure up a tank...like an accumulator tank! Thats news to me. Inthe repair industry I have seen them in some state of decline...usually failing to even prime.. Yes. This is why I installed…tag:goodoldrvs.ning.com,2014-11-17:2093474:Comment:2397052014-11-17T01:52:02.539ZMatthew Tritthttps://goodoldrvs.ning.com/xn/detail/u_1xuchw22d2r3t
<p>Yes. This is why I installed a mini pressure tank. Because quite a bit of pressure can build up in them that last several seconds, the DC pump acts just like a municipal system, albeit briefly, which allows something like a purge. Still, there's no substitute for draining and antifreeze sometimes. The equipment originally installed in my RV had a antifreeze tank, small pump and several solenoid valves that would automatically protect all the lines, tanks and fittings. It must have failed at…</p>
<p>Yes. This is why I installed a mini pressure tank. Because quite a bit of pressure can build up in them that last several seconds, the DC pump acts just like a municipal system, albeit briefly, which allows something like a purge. Still, there's no substitute for draining and antifreeze sometimes. The equipment originally installed in my RV had a antifreeze tank, small pump and several solenoid valves that would automatically protect all the lines, tanks and fittings. It must have failed at some point, cuz most of the bits are gone.</p> Im froma fairly mild climate…tag:goodoldrvs.ning.com,2014-11-16:2093474:Comment:2396052014-11-16T23:28:57.971Zdavid crafthttps://goodoldrvs.ning.com/profile/davidcraft
Im froma fairly mild climate too Matthew. I think the volumn of air pumped by the diphram would not be sufficient to get all the water out. Several in here have extreme winters and have touted the benefits of the strongest antifreeze and very thorough winterizing regimen which i am inclined to agree with after hearing their points. Having put over 10 gallons in, I believe he has a 10'gallon WH or his coach is angled so he cant get all the antifreeze out of the fresh water tank. The cheap route…
Im froma fairly mild climate too Matthew. I think the volumn of air pumped by the diphram would not be sufficient to get all the water out. Several in here have extreme winters and have touted the benefits of the strongest antifreeze and very thorough winterizing regimen which i am inclined to agree with after hearing their points. Having put over 10 gallons in, I believe he has a 10'gallon WH or his coach is angled so he cant get all the antifreeze out of the fresh water tank. The cheap route wouls be the nipple i discussed earlier....just drain the antifreeze out of the WH into a bucket first and screen it and reuse it. Then do the nipple for the bypass... My Hall has drains for the st…tag:goodoldrvs.ning.com,2014-11-16:2093474:Comment:2397412014-11-16T17:31:46.304ZMatthew Tritthttps://goodoldrvs.ning.com/xn/detail/u_1xuchw22d2r3t
<p>My Hall has drains for the storage tank and the water heater - along with the remnants of an automatic winterizing system that was missing in action when I bought it 4 years ago. I've been lucky so far and gotten by with pumping the delivery lines dry and leaving both of the drain lines open. I also leave both drains open on the holding tanks. The point is that most all of the water pumps in service these days are the diaphragm type that will pump air, as well as water, without damaging…</p>
<p>My Hall has drains for the storage tank and the water heater - along with the remnants of an automatic winterizing system that was missing in action when I bought it 4 years ago. I've been lucky so far and gotten by with pumping the delivery lines dry and leaving both of the drain lines open. I also leave both drains open on the holding tanks. The point is that most all of the water pumps in service these days are the diaphragm type that will pump air, as well as water, without damaging anything. If the taps are all opened and the system pumped until nothing but air is coming out, the chances of anything other than a couple minor deposits of water being left to freeze are unlikely. Because water causes damage to plumbing systems by expanding while freezing, the absence of a "closed" system (all the taps open) should prevent any problems, since the little water in there is free to expand and thaw without restriction. At least this is how it's worked for me, even though it seldom gets below 20 deg F here and I also leave an oil-filled electric heater on low 24/7.</p>