I will probably just put in a solid state regulator (7805) which should do fine. It is a simple, cheap linear regulator with an output voltage fixed at 5 volts in a small package.
I suggest that you might want to "add a discussion" for this subject somwe can answer directly. Just for clarity for others that may have the same question and are searching topics.
Unless there is an issue with the gas/propane carburator, why change?
Jim you do not need to do anything. You use the same carburetor regardless. You can leave everything as is or you can remove the propane set up and just use the carburetor. No need to change carbs.
So far on our 1984 Mallard on a Dodge truck chassis (I know, really, where does she fit? But I thought I'd start here) we haven't had luck finding the house battery.
I know when engine is turned off lights in camper work. Can't find any sort of switch to flip between shore and 12 volt. We've found the 110v circuit breakers. Found a converter under the dinette (the other houses the water tank access and water pump). Generator bay in the back rear (no generator - but vented, right size), but didn't find a battery in there (unless it's behind a panel?). No inverter that we've found. No obvious battery bay (there are a few we have to work on to get the locks open but they aren't vented/too small). BF didn't remember seeing a second battery in the engine but going to go back to storage next week to keep looking. What else is left...? Underneath? Maybe it doesn't have one and interior lights are hooked to the starter battery? Everything else seems standard - old hydro flame furnace, built in lb tank, rooftop a/c, water heater...
Any thoughts for our treasure hunt, what to look for, etc. would be welcome!
Some class C's had seperate engine and cabin batteries, Usually by rule of thumb a cabin (house)battery is located just inside the the camper door under a panel in the step or floor. A majority of Class C;s also only used an engine battery to supply low use lighting (12volt). When an RV has a cabin battery it can be tucked nicely in a small compartment,(the size of the battery) and only have a small circular or rectangular vent off to the side of the compartment for ventilation. My 79 Dodge Tioga had 2 cabin batteries,, one was under the step just inside the RV entrance door and one to the back side of the door in generator compartment with a small panel board seperating it from the genset and had a floor vent under the battery tray.
Thanks Lakota! I'll update here what we find. Things are just different enough in this rig from our Bounder that it's like I know what to look for...but not quite.
Hey Dawn. Say you question. Rich made a suggestion on the home page. Crawl underneath and take a gander. Follow the wires from the alternator back to the coach you might find the hidden box. Lakota is also right. That battery may be under or near the front entrance step. Ours is located to the left of the entrance door it has its own exterior entrance hatch. Good luck. P.
Thanks, Vallerie for posting about Rich's comment I would have missed it!
At this point I'm thinking it has to be mounted underneath, or in the engine where we're missing it. Going back to storage next week. The steps also are fold in - but we're going to scrape the floor, shimmy underneath and see what we shall find.
There's quite a few mysteries - didn't get any manuals and trying to figure out things like propane tank size, black and grey tank size, the type of refrigerator, whether the coleman a/c unit up top also has a heat strip (it has a "warmer" setting on the knob but not sure that means "hot"). Should have a model number but not found that yet, either. Haven't found a single switch or gauge - like to monitor anything, or turn on the water pump. All in good fun! Like a treasure hunt. At least we know WHAT we're aiming for.
That's why we are here all together. Great group of people. It takes a while to demystify these old rigs. I am still in the process. We did not have any manuals as well. There are calculators on line to figure out your volume of liquid on grey water tank. Length x width x height. Your propane tank should have a stamped plate with numbers on it that will tell you what size it is. Look on the back side.
To confuse you more - I go by P. for Pamela. My last name is Valllerie. Just remember the girl with two first names. Have fun figuring out your new treasure. P.
Ha, my apologies. I should have caught that was a last name!
No plate on propane (where there should be one) and it's a square one mounted in, so no backside to speak of (underneath may be a different story). That said, itwill be easy enough to determine a close approximation when we go to fill it. I expect 20 lbs, 30 would be a bonus. More curiosity at this point. As are tank sizes...they are what they are :-)
But! The liquid calculator is a good idea once we, um, find those as well - LOL. Okay, those won't be hard. Just wasn't on the priority list.
Thanks again :-) So far I've really enjoyed my conversations with everyone. It's good to finally have a rig so I can really participate!
A roof top A/C unit that has a Warm/Heat selection,, it is NOT an actual heater,,, its an air warmer,, You can check by taking the inside cover off when you clean the air filters and there should be a distribution coil that gets warm,not hot. The fan blows the air across this coil sending out warm air,, basically takes the chill out of the air.
Thanks Lakota, I had my suspicions. I'm thinking our a/c in the Bounder was similar. But wasn't sure. When we get plugged in I'll test the hydro flame out, but I figure for that small of a space catalytic is a good way to go (a Mr. Heater we can tie into the tank one day). I'm sending the BF a carbon monoxide detector for the trip over this December, but going to have to wait on a propane detector until we can get it here and can get it wired in. He won't be sleeping with the Mr. Heater on, so I think that should all be safe enough.
Anyone know the towing capacity, or have an opinion for a 79 Dodge Delta. 440-3 engine runs strong and smooth. Has trailer hookup for brakes. GVWR = 10,500. Want ot pull my 24ft pontoon. homemade trailer is somewhat of a monolith on its own.
Is anyone interested in replacing their ignition module with a HEI module? Better starting, better mileage, more power. Around $100.00 and MORE reliable than the stock Mopar ignition module. I have had problems getting a good new module so I changed to a HEI setup. I will post a blog on the conversion if people are interested.
Thanks for the idea, my 360 is apart now, low compression on #8, so pulling the head. It has always started immediately and I have a spare module from Autozone.
Are you referencing the small block (318/360) or large block (400/413/440) series? Not sure if they have the same ignition.
My 360 has a reluctance pickup ( no points) and an ignition module, I believe MoPar started this system in 1973, so earlier engines would certainly benefit.
Hi Dave, My reason for switching is because I have tried 9, yes 9 New ignition modules from there different auto parts stores and not one of them would start my rig. My old one works fine. I just wanted a spare. I converted my 360 to fuel injection and it runs great. The HEI setup just gives me a hotter spark and therefore better combustion of the fuel. Also better reliability and the parts are readily available at any auto parts store.
I will test my spare. Note there are TWO modules, a 4 PIN and a 5 PIN. they are not interchangeable, but I believe the 5 pin will work in a 4 pin, but NOT the other way. Check the number of pins on the connector.
Chris,
I have a burnt intake valve on #8, so after getting the head rebuilt, I will test the module, HEI does sound like a good way to go.
Going to have new hardened valve seats for unleaded gas, that is what I believe burnt the valve. Only 60,000 miles on it. Cylinders look great!
Jack,
What FI system did you use? I might want to replace my 4 bbl Holly.
I played with with the EFI idea for a minute,but my 70 year old, ASE mechanic dad convinced me to stick with the AFB and keep it clean.. Convinced me that the small hp/mpg gain wouldn't matter much compared to initiaI cost. One thing I'd like to really research would be if Rockwell ever really llbuilt a 2speed CARRIER ASSEMBLY for the rear axle and what part number it is... Legend has it that Dodge offered a 2speed rear end on motorhome chassis. THAT would really help out with fuel economy and revs at speed!
Np, never did... And we take that sucker through mountains and way down through lowlands without ever touching the carb! Of course, I never go much over 55-60 mph... I guess the only real trouble we ever had was climbing a mountain somewhere in Tenn. Last summer... The mechanical fuel pump deep sixed on the way up. Thankfully there's an electric pump also in the line as a helper! We made it up the mountain, but c-r-a-w-l-i-n-g.... I learned a long time ago, to carry spares and SECOND spares ! Cheers, Chris
Hey Dave... Thus also comes to mind. When we had the oldcstyle ignition and the headers weren't yet wrapped, we DID have higher temps when running. We also had a ThermoQuad on the engine, the gas would sometimes boil... But that may have had something to do with the carb being worn out... The phenolic bases are finicky. Anyhow, after the AFB and header wrap, no mote heat problems!
I am planning to install an electric pump at the tank. Probably will help, sounds like it did for you.
I know that mountain in TN, that 's where I stalled! Restarted quickly. Yes we just crawled up the hill. I usually do not drive interstates, 55 is usually tops. Interstate begs faster speeds, but mileage drops off QUICKLY.
Going to FL from Atlanta on highway 441 all the way!
441 is nice! The electric pump is a good idea, but also make sure your mechanical pump is a good one... Also, don't use "too much" of an electric secondary pump...for obvious reasons. Yes- THAT mountain in Tennessee, foes up and down in "steps".
Dave your problem was more likely caused by a lean condition. The four corners cylinders of a v-8 tend to run lean and the #8 cylinder is the most common. Unleaded fuel played hell with the valve seats. Is your seat recessed? I can't tell buy the picture but that is a exhaust valve, larger is intake.
I installed a TBI unit from Affordable Fuel Injection. It is a complete early 1990's Chevy 350 from a pickup. The reason I installed this unit is ease of install and the availability of replacement parts and coast. Just less that $1,000.00 (I did not use their Dist.)
Jack Wasmuth I have a 440-3, carter on an edelbrock performer (sealed the deal), because wont run worth a darn without the right cam. Somewhere i read a conversation about vacumn and rich and lean. I reply, "A vacumn gauge is your best friend on a dodge big block."
A vacuum gauge is a good tool for finding the sweet spot for timing if you do not have a timing light and also for adjusting the idle circuit on a carb. However a vehicle does not travel down the road at idle. Fuel mixture and timing change with rpm and load.
I had a chassis dyno in my repair shop and it is a valuable tool to properly tune any vehicle as I could see what was happening while pulling a hill with a load. A adjustable timing light and the ability to read a spark plug is crucial. A carb will go rich while climbing in altitude. It is necessary to jet the carb leaner by 0.002 for every 4,000 ft rise in elevation. Hope this helps.
Jack Wasmuth, my bad. I didnt mean a test gauge I meant a dash mounted. I was factory trained on Sun Engine Analyzer and Dynanometer.
The true sweet spot 22 psi (secondaries open). The vacuum decreases from 27 psi on acceleration, causing the timing advance to actuate at approximately 65% of torque output and the carb accelerator pump squirts . Yes atmospheric pressure does impact performance. So what happened with the burnt valve, I agree burned to lean. LOL I was typing when your reply came in.
All the tricks and tips we did, are now done on chips.
Of course, you're correct, exhaust valve. Seat is recessed. Going to have the head rebuilt with hardened seats.
Has an Endlebrock Torker manifold and Holley 4150 that I inherited from the previous owner. Torker is a really simple large plenum manifold. Maybe I should find another manifold or a factory 4 bbl manifold. Cast iron is ok. It is an RV, reliability is important. With TBI the lean condition would still exist at the 1,2,5,8 cylinders.as the manifold would be the same. Port injection would be better. Not sure this is all worth the expense for an RV. I could just be sure the end cylinders are rich enough. EGT would work, used on aircraft, or I could fit a wideband O2 sensor near the #8 cylinder.
Yes, 441 is 4 lanes most of the way, no traffic. Some small towns, takes a while, but few semis, very relaxing. Many campgrounds are close to 441. Picking it up in Athens, GA, going directly to Gainesville, FL, then down to Ocala, over to 95, then US1 on down.
David check the cylinder walls for scoring. Also check the piston closely. The heat in that cylinder will affect other parts. Sometimes the top compression ring gets damaged as well. After you reinstall the heads, do a compression test.
Place a couple of rare earth magnets on your new oil filter. This will trap any metal that may be floating around in your oil.
The straighter the intake runners are you will get more fuel to the cylinders. Air goes around corners but the fuel puddles at the turning point. A stock dual plane intake manifold is basically for mom and pops going to the store. Your torker is made for mid range power.
Using a higher grade fuel (octane) slows the burn and produces more power. I only use 90-92 octane. It also burns cooler with respect to the richness. The ECM tries to maintain 14.7 to 1 air fuel ratio throughout the power curve.
The O2 sensor would pick up the lean condition and increase fuel to all cylinders. Even with port fuel injection the ECM can not richen up one cylinder. With two O2 sensors (one for each bank) the ECM richens up one bank and not the other. The TBI unit works well.
I use magnets out of microwave in the pans. That gave me the idea, lawn tractor starters have permanent magnets that fit oil filters pretty good, tips & tricks
The cylinder walls look great, perfectly clean, no scoring. Coated all bores with MMO while I get the head repaired. Pistion looks good, won't know for sure until compression check.
I agree with higher octane, will put it in the aux tank for heading uphill to NC, it is getting really $$ these days. Downhill to FL is not much load. I live in ATL metro north.b
Great points about the TBI system, closed loop, should solve the issue. Any significant mileage increase? I know anything above 55 , it really drops pushing the RV box through the air.
Thanks for the tips.
While I am old school by defailt (old) I am an engineer and up to date with tech.
David, when I changed to TBI my mileage increase was about 1 1/2 MPG. I too like to travel about 55 mph. I tend to take the secondary roads and avoid freeways.
Back in the day I never really cared for mopar. Big Blocks ruled! I seldom had extra money that could'nt be better spent. I would swap and deal. I developed a prejudice or preference. Small block mopar never made the list. But I found this youtube with a basket full of info tidbits.
If anyone is interested, I converted my very poor Chrysler ignition system to a High Energy Ignition. It Was very easy and about $125.00 dollars. It has made a BIG difference: faster starts, more power and better MPG. Also all parts are readily available at any auto parts store as they are all GM except the distributor. Email me if interested and I will give you the details.
David W. Davis
I will probably just put in a solid state regulator (7805) which should do fine. It is a simple, cheap linear regulator with an output voltage fixed at 5 volts in a small package.
Aug 8, 2016
Jim-N-Bear
hello all I just am getting back into the 1976 Travco and need to Change the carcurator from the propane/gas type to straight Gas
is this recomended.
Aug 10, 2016
David W. Davis
Unless there is an issue with the gas/propane carburator, why change?
Aug 10, 2016
Jack Wasmuth
Jim you do not need to do anything. You use the same carburetor regardless. You can leave everything as is or you can remove the propane set up and just use the carburetor. No need to change carbs.
Aug 10, 2016
Dawn Michelle
Any thoughts where to look for our house battery?
So far on our 1984 Mallard on a Dodge truck chassis (I know, really, where does she fit? But I thought I'd start here) we haven't had luck finding the house battery.
I know when engine is turned off lights in camper work. Can't find any sort of switch to flip between shore and 12 volt. We've found the 110v circuit breakers. Found a converter under the dinette (the other houses the water tank access and water pump). Generator bay in the back rear (no generator - but vented, right size), but didn't find a battery in there (unless it's behind a panel?). No inverter that we've found. No obvious battery bay (there are a few we have to work on to get the locks open but they aren't vented/too small). BF didn't remember seeing a second battery in the engine but going to go back to storage next week to keep looking. What else is left...? Underneath? Maybe it doesn't have one and interior lights are hooked to the starter battery? Everything else seems standard - old hydro flame furnace, built in lb tank, rooftop a/c, water heater...
Any thoughts for our treasure hunt, what to look for, etc. would be welcome!
Oct 26, 2016
Lakota Wolf
Some class C's had seperate engine and cabin batteries, Usually by rule of thumb a cabin (house)battery is located just inside the the camper door under a panel in the step or floor. A majority of Class C;s also only used an engine battery to supply low use lighting (12volt). When an RV has a cabin battery it can be tucked nicely in a small compartment,(the size of the battery) and only have a small circular or rectangular vent off to the side of the compartment for ventilation. My 79 Dodge Tioga had 2 cabin batteries,, one was under the step just inside the RV entrance door and one to the back side of the door in generator compartment with a small panel board seperating it from the genset and had a floor vent under the battery tray.
Oct 26, 2016
Dawn Michelle
Thanks Lakota! I'll update here what we find. Things are just different enough in this rig from our Bounder that it's like I know what to look for...but not quite.
Oct 27, 2016
P. Vallerie
Oct 27, 2016
Dawn Michelle
Thanks, Vallerie for posting about Rich's comment I would have missed it!
At this point I'm thinking it has to be mounted underneath, or in the engine where we're missing it. Going back to storage next week. The steps also are fold in - but we're going to scrape the floor, shimmy underneath and see what we shall find.
There's quite a few mysteries - didn't get any manuals and trying to figure out things like propane tank size, black and grey tank size, the type of refrigerator, whether the coleman a/c unit up top also has a heat strip (it has a "warmer" setting on the knob but not sure that means "hot"). Should have a model number but not found that yet, either. Haven't found a single switch or gauge - like to monitor anything, or turn on the water pump. All in good fun! Like a treasure hunt. At least we know WHAT we're aiming for.
Appreciate the suggestions!
Oct 27, 2016
P. Vallerie
To confuse you more - I go by P. for Pamela. My last name is Valllerie. Just remember the girl with two first names. Have fun figuring out your new treasure. P.
Oct 27, 2016
Dawn Michelle
Ha, my apologies. I should have caught that was a last name!
No plate on propane (where there should be one) and it's a square one mounted in, so no backside to speak of (underneath may be a different story). That said, itwill be easy enough to determine a close approximation when we go to fill it. I expect 20 lbs, 30 would be a bonus. More curiosity at this point. As are tank sizes...they are what they are :-)
But! The liquid calculator is a good idea once we, um, find those as well - LOL. Okay, those won't be hard. Just wasn't on the priority list.
Thanks again :-) So far I've really enjoyed my conversations with everyone. It's good to finally have a rig so I can really participate!
Oct 27, 2016
Lakota Wolf
A roof top A/C unit that has a Warm/Heat selection,, it is NOT an actual heater,,, its an air warmer,, You can check by taking the inside cover off when you clean the air filters and there should be a distribution coil that gets warm,not hot. The fan blows the air across this coil sending out warm air,, basically takes the chill out of the air.
Oct 27, 2016
Dawn Michelle
Thanks Lakota, I had my suspicions. I'm thinking our a/c in the Bounder was similar. But wasn't sure. When we get plugged in I'll test the hydro flame out, but I figure for that small of a space catalytic is a good way to go (a Mr. Heater we can tie into the tank one day). I'm sending the BF a carbon monoxide detector for the trip over this December, but going to have to wait on a propane detector until we can get it here and can get it wired in. He won't be sleeping with the Mr. Heater on, so I think that should all be safe enough.
Oct 28, 2016
Troy Diaz
Anyone know the towing capacity, or have an opinion for a 79 Dodge Delta. 440-3 engine runs strong and smooth. Has trailer hookup for brakes. GVWR = 10,500. Want ot pull my 24ft pontoon. homemade trailer is somewhat of a monolith on its own.
Dec 18, 2016
matthew gleason
CAN ANYONE TELL ME THE MODEL OF THIS
THE TITLE SAYS IT'S A 72 DODGE LIFE
IS IT A LIFE TIME OR SOMETING ELSE
RV 00E0E_gSjZfAADEHo_600x450.jpg00l0l_2k5SR3Ey90i_600x450.jpg00E0E_2gsBkWPT1Y2_600x450.jpg
Dec 29, 2016
Jimco_W001
Hi Matthew, its looks like a Lifetime. Nice motorhome.
Dec 29, 2016
Troy Diaz
got pics of that L.E.R? what engine does it have?
Mar 31, 2017
Jack Wasmuth
Is anyone in need of a Chilton repair manual for 1967-1988 Dodge and Plymouth Trucks? I have one in very good condition. $12.50 plus shipping.
Jun 6, 2017
Jack Wasmuth
Is anyone interested in replacing their ignition module with a HEI module? Better starting, better mileage, more power. Around $100.00 and MORE reliable than the stock Mopar ignition module. I have had problems getting a good new module so I changed to a HEI setup. I will post a blog on the conversion if people are interested.
May 3, 2018
David W. Davis
Jack,
Thanks for the idea, my 360 is apart now, low compression on #8, so pulling the head. It has always started immediately and I have a spare module from Autozone.
Are you referencing the small block (318/360) or large block (400/413/440) series? Not sure if they have the same ignition.
My 360 has a reluctance pickup ( no points) and an ignition module, I believe MoPar started this system in 1973, so earlier engines would certainly benefit.
Dave
May 3, 2018
Jack Wasmuth
Hi Dave, My reason for switching is because I have tried 9, yes 9 New ignition modules from there different auto parts stores and not one of them would start my rig. My old one works fine. I just wanted a spare. I converted my 360 to fuel injection and it runs great. The HEI setup just gives me a hotter spark and therefore better combustion of the fuel. Also better reliability and the parts are readily available at any auto parts store.
May 3, 2018
Chris Ramey
May 3, 2018
David W. Davis
Jack,
I will test my spare. Note there are TWO modules, a 4 PIN and a 5 PIN. they are not interchangeable, but I believe the 5 pin will work in a 4 pin, but NOT the other way. Check the number of pins on the connector.
Chris,
I have a burnt intake valve on #8, so after getting the head rebuilt, I will test the module, HEI does sound like a good way to go.
Going to have new hardened valve seats for unleaded gas, that is what I believe burnt the valve. Only 60,000 miles on it. Cylinders look great!
Jack,
What FI system did you use? I might want to replace my 4 bbl Holly.
Dave
May 3, 2018
Chris Ramey
May 3, 2018
David W. Davis
Jack,
I just looked at your Fuel Injection photos.
This would eliminate the vapor lock issues I have on a hot summer day in the mountains!
My 360 is almost identical, have an Endlebrock 4 bbl manifold and Holley 4150 carb.
Dave
Dave
May 3, 2018
David W. Davis
Chris,
The AFB is a great carb, BUT do you ever have stalling due to heat build up and subsequent vapor lock?
Dave
May 3, 2018
Chris Ramey
May 3, 2018
Chris Ramey
May 3, 2018
Chris Ramey
May 3, 2018
David W. Davis
Chris,
I am planning to install an electric pump at the tank. Probably will help, sounds like it did for you.
I know that mountain in TN, that 's where I stalled! Restarted quickly. Yes we just crawled up the hill. I usually do not drive interstates, 55 is usually tops. Interstate begs faster speeds, but mileage drops off QUICKLY.
Going to FL from Atlanta on highway 441 all the way!
Dave
May 3, 2018
David W. Davis
Just pulled the head, burnt intake valve, prob from unleaded fuel.
May 3, 2018
Chris Ramey
May 3, 2018
postman
Chris Ramey, 441???
May 3, 2018
Jack Wasmuth
Dave your problem was more likely caused by a lean condition. The four corners cylinders of a v-8 tend to run lean and the #8 cylinder is the most common. Unleaded fuel played hell with the valve seats. Is your seat recessed? I can't tell buy the picture but that is a exhaust valve, larger is intake.
I installed a TBI unit from Affordable Fuel Injection. It is a complete early 1990's Chevy 350 from a pickup. The reason I installed this unit is ease of install and the availability of replacement parts and coast. Just less that $1,000.00 (I did not use their Dist.)
May 3, 2018
Chris Ramey
May 3, 2018
Chris Ramey
May 3, 2018
postman
Jack Wasmuth I have a 440-3, carter on an edelbrock performer (sealed the deal), because wont run worth a darn without the right cam. Somewhere i read a conversation about vacumn and rich and lean. I reply, "A vacumn gauge is your best friend on a dodge big block."
May 3, 2018
Chris Ramey
May 3, 2018
Jack Wasmuth
A vacuum gauge is a good tool for finding the sweet spot for timing if you do not have a timing light and also for adjusting the idle circuit on a carb. However a vehicle does not travel down the road at idle. Fuel mixture and timing change with rpm and load.
I had a chassis dyno in my repair shop and it is a valuable tool to properly tune any vehicle as I could see what was happening while pulling a hill with a load. A adjustable timing light and the ability to read a spark plug is crucial. A carb will go rich while climbing in altitude. It is necessary to jet the carb leaner by 0.002 for every 4,000 ft rise in elevation. Hope this helps.
May 3, 2018
postman
Jack Wasmuth, my bad. I didnt mean a test gauge I meant a dash mounted. I was factory trained on Sun Engine Analyzer and Dynanometer.
The true sweet spot 22 psi (secondaries open). The vacuum decreases from 27 psi on acceleration, causing the timing advance to actuate at approximately 65% of torque output and the carb accelerator pump squirts . Yes atmospheric pressure does impact performance. So what happened with the burnt valve, I agree burned to lean. LOL I was typing when your reply came in.
All the tricks and tips we did, are now done on chips.
May 3, 2018
David W. Davis
Jack,
Of course, you're correct, exhaust valve. Seat is recessed. Going to have the head rebuilt with hardened seats.
Has an Endlebrock Torker manifold and Holley 4150 that I inherited from the previous owner. Torker is a really simple large plenum manifold. Maybe I should find another manifold or a factory 4 bbl manifold. Cast iron is ok. It is an RV, reliability is important. With TBI the lean condition would still exist at the 1,2,5,8 cylinders.as the manifold would be the same. Port injection would be better. Not sure this is all worth the expense for an RV. I could just be sure the end cylinders are rich enough. EGT would work, used on aircraft, or I could fit a wideband O2 sensor near the #8 cylinder.
May 3, 2018
David W. Davis
Chris,
Yes, 441 is 4 lanes most of the way, no traffic. Some small towns, takes a while, but few semis, very relaxing. Many campgrounds are close to 441. Picking it up in Athens, GA, going directly to Gainesville, FL, then down to Ocala, over to 95, then US1 on down.
Dave
May 3, 2018
Jack Wasmuth
David check the cylinder walls for scoring. Also check the piston closely. The heat in that cylinder will affect other parts. Sometimes the top compression ring gets damaged as well. After you reinstall the heads, do a compression test.
Place a couple of rare earth magnets on your new oil filter. This will trap any metal that may be floating around in your oil.
The straighter the intake runners are you will get more fuel to the cylinders. Air goes around corners but the fuel puddles at the turning point. A stock dual plane intake manifold is basically for mom and pops going to the store. Your torker is made for mid range power.
Using a higher grade fuel (octane) slows the burn and produces more power. I only use 90-92 octane. It also burns cooler with respect to the richness. The ECM tries to maintain 14.7 to 1 air fuel ratio throughout the power curve.
The O2 sensor would pick up the lean condition and increase fuel to all cylinders. Even with port fuel injection the ECM can not richen up one cylinder. With two O2 sensors (one for each bank) the ECM richens up one bank and not the other. The TBI unit works well.
May 3, 2018
postman
Jack Wasmuth
I use magnets out of microwave in the pans. That gave me the idea, lawn tractor starters have permanent magnets that fit oil filters pretty good, tips & tricks
May 4, 2018
David W. Davis
Jack,
The cylinder walls look great, perfectly clean, no scoring. Coated all bores with MMO while I get the head repaired. Pistion looks good, won't know for sure until compression check.
I agree with higher octane, will put it in the aux tank for heading uphill to NC, it is getting really $$ these days. Downhill to FL is not much load. I live in ATL metro north.b
Great points about the TBI system, closed loop, should solve the issue. Any significant mileage increase? I know anything above 55 , it really drops pushing the RV box through the air.
Thanks for the tips.
While I am old school by defailt (old) I am an engineer and up to date with tech.
May 4, 2018
Jack Wasmuth
David, when I changed to TBI my mileage increase was about 1 1/2 MPG. I too like to travel about 55 mph. I tend to take the secondary roads and avoid freeways.
May 4, 2018
postman
*FULL DISCLOSURE*
Back in the day I never really cared for mopar. Big Blocks ruled! I seldom had extra money that could'nt be better spent. I would swap and deal. I developed a prejudice or preference. Small block mopar never made the list. But I found this youtube with a basket full of info tidbits.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Rj74X9_RZc
May 4, 2018
Sweet Gypsy Rose
Hi All!!
I just bought a 72 Dodge Fireball Class C. I can't wait to get started restoring her to her former glory days!! Anyone else out there have a Fireball?
Cheers!!
Dena
Jul 24, 2018
Jack Wasmuth
Convert Dodge Ignition to HEI
Aug 4, 2018
Frances DeHart
Jan 3, 2019