City and State where you are located. Do not use zip code, you know what it means but it means nothing to the rest of us.
Eugene oregon
Tell us a little About Yourself
Hello rvers. Our family has just bought our first rv! It's a 1975 Dodge Beaver. We can't wait to restore it! Engine seems good although it overheated on the hour and a half drive to our house. This was due to absolutly no coolant! Water did the trick and we made it home! Yay!
Welcome to GORV Kurth family. Seeings how you are from Eugene....are you really allowed to own a "Beaver" RV? I thought you would only be allowed to own a "Duck" RV. :o)
We are south of Portland here and our oldest daughter just graduated from OSU this June. Welcome again and glad you have a Beaver RV. :o)
I would love to see pictures of your rig when you get a chance. Ripping out dry rot can be a little scary, especially when your RV collapses implodes on itself lie ours did. Only a couple of choices there... cry or man up and rebuild. I chose the latter. :o)
Unless someone is a college fan or from Oregon they probably will not get the whole beaver and duck comment, but living in Oregon we get it. :o)
Ok that is exactly what I was thinking your RV was. What I didn't know was that you have a door on the side and in the back. That is very unique. I have seen campers with a single door in the back or a door on each side, but I have never seen an RV with a door on the side and the back. Very cool. :o)
Thanks! My floorplan is a rear bath, with entry to the curbside rear. When you come in the door the to your immediate left is the ward, and the bath. Directly in front as you enter is the left end of the galley, and as you turn right to walk to the front we have the refrigerator on the right, along with another closet that could also be a pantry. Then the option for a sofa (also on the right) or dining booth the rest of the way to the front, and ending up right behind the passenger seat bulkhead. Adjacent to that area on the left, and in front of the kitchen, we have a larger day bed/sofa. Then, of course, overhead we have the bunk. I really like the layout, and will keep it this way and opt for the dinette/sitting area on the right side. Water tanks are under each area as well. Now that I can actually stand up in the shower (it is on a 5" rise), I'm really happy with it, and it makes the space feel much larger! Once I finish the roof (hopefully today), I'm using Eternabond Webseal on the joints and perimeter, and Liquid Rubber for the roof, which is now continuous 3/8" primed plywood over 2" ACTUAL dimension rafters. I should never have another leak! :)
Ahh Eternabond! It's the only stuff I recommend to seal edges and joints, and depending on the type you get, you can use it under Liquid Rubber. Eternabond is a micro sealant tape that is pressure activated and VERY tough! It isn't like the old butyl roll caulking/tape in that it isn't affected by temperature and doesn't break down. It is super stable and will last longer than your rig! Check it out here:http://www.eternabond.com
As far as removing old sealant I like to use acetone. It breaks up virtually all sealants, paints, varnishes, you name it! You'll still have to apply lots of elbow grease and maybe use a hammer and chisel for the really tough stuff. Sometimes it pays to just ditch the old part and rebuild with different materials. I had a continuous aluminum roof and they are notorious for pinhole leaks. Not only that, but mine wasn't fully supported by anything but the rafters and over the years it started to sag, hold water, and leak at the seams. When I saw how bad the roof was I traded for her, I knew that rebuilding her the same way would be a big mistake, so I used thicker rafters and better blocking (it had none!), and 3/8" plywood on the whole thing. Used Premium Kilz waterbased, Eternabond tape over that, and in a day or two I'll coat everything with Liquid Rubber. I should never have another leak! :)
The shelf that was in the cabover was kind of like a drawer/headboard, but nothing over head.
Hope everything is running smoothly on your end, and look forward to the updates!
the layout looks like it is very similar as far as the floor plan of ours. i will post pictures as soon as i get a chance to take some. right now we are checking all the appliances and getting options on weather to fix or replace. the range is a Coleman with the oven on top and 4 burners and is extirmely clean, but won't work. since we are new to this i'm getting a pro's opinion before ripping it out. on the whole, it is very clean and neat.
since we're in idaho and the rv is from nevada, i have no idea if the roof leaks. we'll have to put a sprinkler on top and sit inside and drink beer to test it.
Craig & Lisa
Welcome to GORV Kurth family. Seeings how you are from Eugene....are you really allowed to own a "Beaver" RV? I thought you would only be allowed to own a "Duck" RV. :o)
We are south of Portland here and our oldest daughter just graduated from OSU this June. Welcome again and glad you have a Beaver RV. :o)
Aug 1, 2011
Craig & Lisa
I would love to see pictures of your rig when you get a chance. Ripping out dry rot can be a little scary, especially when your RV collapses implodes on itself lie ours did. Only a couple of choices there... cry or man up and rebuild. I chose the latter. :o)
Unless someone is a college fan or from Oregon they probably will not get the whole beaver and duck comment, but living in Oregon we get it. :o)
Aug 2, 2011
Craig & Lisa
Aug 2, 2011
Craig & Lisa
Aug 2, 2011
Dave Creu
Aug 23, 2011
Dave Creu
Ahh Eternabond! It's the only stuff I recommend to seal edges and joints, and depending on the type you get, you can use it under Liquid Rubber. Eternabond is a micro sealant tape that is pressure activated and VERY tough! It isn't like the old butyl roll caulking/tape in that it isn't affected by temperature and doesn't break down. It is super stable and will last longer than your rig! Check it out here:http://www.eternabond.com
As far as removing old sealant I like to use acetone. It breaks up virtually all sealants, paints, varnishes, you name it! You'll still have to apply lots of elbow grease and maybe use a hammer and chisel for the really tough stuff. Sometimes it pays to just ditch the old part and rebuild with different materials. I had a continuous aluminum roof and they are notorious for pinhole leaks. Not only that, but mine wasn't fully supported by anything but the rafters and over the years it started to sag, hold water, and leak at the seams. When I saw how bad the roof was I traded for her, I knew that rebuilding her the same way would be a big mistake, so I used thicker rafters and better blocking (it had none!), and 3/8" plywood on the whole thing. Used Premium Kilz waterbased, Eternabond tape over that, and in a day or two I'll coat everything with Liquid Rubber. I should never have another leak! :)
The shelf that was in the cabover was kind of like a drawer/headboard, but nothing over head.
Hope everything is running smoothly on your end, and look forward to the updates!
Aug 25, 2011
Randy Brown
this is randy in idaho. did you have a wiring diagram for the rv or did you just 'wing' it since your rebuilding from the ground up.
r
Sep 27, 2011
Randy Brown
the layout looks like it is very similar as far as the floor plan of ours. i will post pictures as soon as i get a chance to take some. right now we are checking all the appliances and getting options on weather to fix or replace. the range is a Coleman with the oven on top and 4 burners and is extirmely clean, but won't work. since we are new to this i'm getting a pro's opinion before ripping it out. on the whole, it is very clean and neat.
since we're in idaho and the rv is from nevada, i have no idea if the roof leaks. we'll have to put a sprinkler on top and sit inside and drink beer to test it.
randy in idaho
Sep 27, 2011