My old Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite has an (take a wild guess) aluminum roof.  I kinda' like it because rubber roofs (if they know rubber tires will fail in 10 to 15 years from exposure - what made them think a rubber roof was a good idea) or fiberglass (fg gets old and cracks - some cosmetic some critical) have issues.  Aluminum roofs do have inherent issues also, not the least of which is you feel like you're walking on a huge beer can.

Although I did not have any active leaks, I can tell where there have been some small ones before.  I had decided I did not want to do all of the work on the inside only to end up havng it ruined by water intrusion... plus it really puts a damper on things when water is dripping on you as you are trying to sleep, read, play guitar, whatever...

I also knew I had to replace the old roof storage pod.  It was cracked and worn out as it had been used to carry firewood.  There was also some funky satellite tv dish setup and old cracked AC shrouds that all needed to go.

So, before doing a thorough cleaning, I cleaned and taped the seams with the Dicor seam tape.  Neat stuff, almost like a putty on one side that, after the sun has worked on it for a day or two, seeps into and conforms to the seam to seal it. 

Removing the old pod required Dremeling cut-outs where the screw attachment points were and prying the pod off because of all of the silicone the PO had used to fasten and seal the pod.  Once that was done, I filled the screw holes with 5200, seam tape and tabs of fiberglass and resin. 

Once the pod holes were filled, I hosed down the entire roof with house cleaner - Krud Kutter -  and scrubbed with a broom. Just doing that made the roof look 100% better.  But I could also see evidence of hail storms the old gal has seen.

I covered the whole old pod area with three layers of fiberglass (roving sandwiched between mat) to reinforce the pod mounting area.  (Sanding, smoothing, etc rolling out a layer at a time).  I have another to go back in its place.

Cleaned the roof with KK again (the coach got a bath also) for the last step to be ready to paint.

I had bought a 5 gallon bucket of roof coating from the same folks I got my floor coating from - Armor Garage.  (No, I'm not affiliated, compensated, etc - I just like their stuff and their people/service.)  The milspec roof coating material can be rolled or sprayed on, only needs 24 hours without rain and is guaranteed not to breakdown/leak for 12 years.  Heck, I don't have that kinda' guarantee on me.

Applying the stuff was the tricky part - it was windy and the roof coating material is like liquified 3M 5200... and like 5200, it had a mind of its own and wanted to go everywhere if I wasn't careful.  But I was able to brush in the edges and roll on the rest of the roof without too much getting away from me.  I could just see the stuff filling in all the little nooks and crannies and leveling out little hail pocks.  Cool...

I've now got two coats on (recommended), and I think I have enough left over for a third coat which I'll put on as well.

I can already tell the bright white coating is helping the coach be a little cooler inside and I bet it will help with the sound/noise resonance going down the road driving a huge beer can.  Plus, I'm SURE I don't and won't have ANY leaks from the roof.





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Comment by julia on February 3, 2014 at 1:33am

My 1988 Tioga is leaking too.  My brother says the roof has never been coated.  Saw some rv roof s

ealant. ?..rubber paint stuff.  Can I paint the seams with that?

Comment by Lynn David on January 14, 2014 at 5:45pm

EPDM roofing membrane (rubber roofing) will last a few decades unlike the rubber used in tires.

Comment by Lynn David on January 14, 2014 at 5:44pm

Comment by Angel on August 1, 2013 at 8:01am


Yes,  I did put down seam tape after cleaning and prepping the tape areas.  Then I could more aggressively clean the rest of the roof.  The roof coating I used does not require priming and I then just followed the manufacturers instructions - which weren't particularly challenging - more just common sense.


Here is a link to them and a comparison chart -

The coating is bright white (best for reflectivity, but may be tinted if desired) and no, I don't work for 'em...

Comment by Kevin wright on August 1, 2013 at 1:02am
I have an old holiday rambler also 1988' tell you the truth I couldn't figure out what the roof was made out of til
I tried to remove the roof air vent and dug through the putty to discover it was rivited on. Had to knock the heads off the rivitsto remove the vent. Between the ri vits and a few scratch marks I put in the roof I realized it was thin aluminum. I guess it was painted white, so my question is did you use a primer? Also did you tape over the raised seams or remove all the old sealant? That would be a job. I still got to get two more vents off, so it will be a while before I actually paint it. Thanks for your help and good discussions
Comment by Ron Buckner on July 31, 2013 at 9:48pm
Cool! No disrespect meant. Can you send me a link ? I'm always excited about anything new with positive results. I've had some real negative results with a bunch of new products that have done more harm than good.
Comment by Angel on July 30, 2013 at 9:43pm


There was no evidence of any oxidation or electrolysis.

Yes, it is too late, the roof has been coated for a year and dry- I still have confidence in my decision.  Mine is repairable - just recoat in ten years to get another ten years protection, has greater flexibility than an elastomeric, reflects UV and sun heat better, is easily repaired, flows out nicely, etc..  This is NOT a bed liner, but a milspec roof coating.

The surface was prepped according to the manufacturers specs - which is pretty straight forward.  The tenacity of the coating is impressive.  So far, my roof has seen major rains, a winter and a HOT summer  - no issues.

So far, so good...

Comment by Ron Buckner on July 30, 2013 at 7:45pm
This might be too late, but before putting ANY thing to an aluminum roof you might check for electrolysis or oxidization (white powder on a finger). Regardless of what you use it won't work if the surface isn't properly prepped. I still recommend Kool Seal White elastomeric. It's not perfect, but it's repairable. Bed-liner products in general are not flexible enough and if there's any kind of a failure,it will be because of a blister (or delamination) you can't see, which means covering the whole thing all over again.
P.S. I'm not sold on present-day rubber products either, but I think it's a step in the right direction
Comment by Angel on September 19, 2012 at 1:08pm

Hey Rodney,

Welcome -
My old coach is a pre-"basement" model (as many of ours are...).  So, it was/is popular to add a roof "pod" for additional storage on motorhomes.  Basically, I can put maybe up to 150 lbs of junk in there.  Since you have a trailer, you probably wouldn't use or need a pod.

The wiring should not be that hard for the trailer lights (realatively speaking), but you're correct  - to do it right, you should rewire the whole trailer.  Sounds like you have a real project ahead of you, but you'll have a nice trailer when you are finished.




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