Had a Tioga with the same Dodge 360/ Torque-flight 3 speed in it. Engines that sit a long time should be checked out prior to firing it up. 3 years outdoors or in a barn or covered? Mine had 46K on it when the oil pump went and blew the engine so always best to do short trips with her and sort everything out. Hope you get her for a good price and you like to tinker like the rest of us!
Go through it like you would check your car or truck along with a house you were buying because that's basically what it is. Check for ceiling leaks, little presents left by mice in the cabinets. If you can take it for a test drive that would be great but sitting for 3 years I'd be gentle. Check anything safety wise (do brake lights work? Signals? Do all gauges work? )
Here's a link for buyers of RV's but it's a LONG one! It's a '77 that's been sitting for 3 years. Does the owner have a lot of documentation and service records? That's worth something. I paid $1200 for mine and it was a bit high (needed work).
You're not alone with that concern. If you do get this RV, make sure you have a reliable mechanic that isn't afraid of older RV's. Class C's aren't bad, just a bit bulky! One one consistent issue I have seen is in the electrical area. Alternators that don't seem to charge, corroded grounds, etc. Anyone can visually check these things and work on replacing wires and cleaning up grounds to get things back into original operating condition. That's what I'm working on now : replacing ground wires, fixing a "no charge" situation which manifests itself as weird (or wired?) issues with turn signals, instrument lighting, stuff like that. I do most if not all the mechanical work on my RV's since it's here and most shops want to charge way to much because it's not a car or truck.
yes the "charge" is something i worry about have you ever stayed in one when the temps got cold?
Hello Frances, I Have a 1978 C class motor home. Typical amenities as you would expect. My sons and I have a tradition of camping out on the Thanksgiving holiday and have not experienced any problems with charging related to the cold but that's just been my experience and yours may be different; I still use the original converter charger. I really want to make you aware of Date Coding tires. If this is something you are aware of please disregard. Tires on RV's should be replaced every 5 years as a general rule; to lesson the risk of tire failure. Yes even if they look brand new. When I purchased my camper it had a salvage title due to a very small hole placed in the roof by a shattered 2"x 4" the result of a tornado. These facts are related only in that my camper had to under go a certified inspection by the Ohio State Patrol before I took possession. The tires looked new and the spare had never been on the ground. Twenty miles later I was stuck out on interstate 71 with a blown rear inside dual. The only thing that saved my camper from being shredded by the flapping rubber was the bottle gas line that went to my oven.Yes all kinds of scenario's could have plaid out. I was able to limp to a tire store where they promptly told me that they would not touch it. huh! Turns out, tires over ten years old are not allowed to be repaired by state and federal guide lines, The tires on the ground was over 10 years, the spare was 15 years old and had not ever been on the ground. So please do a diligent inspection of the tires even before you test drive it. Make sure the tires are at least at proper inflation.stay at a lower speed and avoid pot holes. If there is even one tire showing dry rot don't take it off the property. My first day of ownership $2,900. for the camper $1,500 for 7 new tires. Wasn't prepared for that at all. Take a close look at the rubber brake lines on the front calipers as well, look for dry rot, seepage and abrasions. That's a whole other story, be safe and just be aware that age is detrimental to all things and normal ware and tear is just that, normal. look hard for the things that aren't normal and use that list, take notes and don't be shy to have the seller explain the, this and that's.
The seller is actually going to let me keep it on his property so that we can change the brake lines fuel lines rotors pads check the calipers and adjust the drums I will look at the tires and replace for sure I do not want to have any problems I put fulltime RV insurance on this RV incase something happens have you used your camper in the cold weather I have a co worker that said your lines are going to freeze will the heater in side help with this? any help is greatly appreciated!
We camp each year over the Thanksgiving Holiday and it dose get fairly cold. My campers floor is sealed from out side with sheet aluminum just like the roof and I think it would do okay to at least zero. Two of the camps was well into freezing and we just took bottled water and fill jugs more or less dry camping. That being said the furnace had no problem keeping the camper hot. If your camper is like mine and sealed from the bottom I would say you would be fairly safe. there are some things that you can do like skirting around the the base, pillows in the vents and cover the AC unit would make a big difference My weak spot is the hot water. the tank is open to the out side on the vent side. I would strongly advise you to install a carbon monoxide and LP gas detector. The tighter your environment is the higher the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning.We camp mostly in state parks and use a quartz heater a lot , it saves the gas for cooking and hot water. Hope this helps some and I hope others will dive in on this issue and give you some more advice.
the Charging I meant was having the mechanic at the rv shop charge me
That's too funny
yeah that is what I am worried about I am going to try and do as much as I can I really want it to be road worthy and to beable to do some traveling also with it.