My 1970 Glastron (F.Y.I.: $16,500 in '70 - when typical fiberglas Class A's of the same size sold for half as much) came from the garage of a Boeing engineer who bought it in the early 70's; this meant that it came to me with most of the original extras such as a roof tent and collapsible side rails. Unfortunately, the heavy green canvas 'tent' had degraded over time and I can not figure out what it looked like when installed or what devise was used to hold it up. My owner's manual mentions that the roof can hold 17 individuals, so the tent must have occasionally been used for star watching parties, or just huge sleep-overs....
The orig. railing is in the down position and likely oxidized in place.
That was "REPAIR ISSUE #1".
"ISSUE #2" is this: My add-on very limited release 1979 Holly "automatic" carb. behaves as if the accelerator pump is malfunctioning, but the other day I noticed a solenoid shaped (?) devise at the front end of the carb. (towards radiator), with two wires coming from it's top. I barely touched one of the solid core copper wires (?!) and it broke off from within its taped-over splice. Could this be a powered accelerator pump - or perhaps an electronic fuel cut off devise to treat possible run-ons?
Any information on either of these Glastron subjects would be appreciated.
- James Morris Seattle Area
Sometimes those *solenoid devices at the front driver side of the carb is a high idle solenoid, when its cold and when a/c is activated, kicks the idle up a notch. (This is what I have found on several Holly carbs.) Hope this helps a little.
Thank you for the 'Holly Hint', L.W. I suspect it IS a solenoid but the 'experts' at the local NAPA have never heard of something shaped like this at one end of the carb. or any wires coming from a Holly carb....
Perhaps you would tell me what you would do: The engineer who'd owned my Glastron added everything from air horns to air suspension - plus a custom dash and lots of extra gauges and switches - plus upgrades like an electronic tank selector switch (he'd added an extra gas tank) and 2 CB's. Under the bench seats were replacement parts for just about any part of the engine or brakes. To finish it all off he turned most of the interior into a KENNEL for the family's show dogs (BIG show dogs). I had to strip out all the very well made and installed kennels and took parts from my Itaska to restore the interior. I also used the Itaska's fine captain's chairs up front.
BUT.......I haven't driven ANYWHERE since I bought the M.H. because the accelerator pump is stuck and the Holly carb. is supposedly very special, only made for a couple years. The guy's daughter said it was adjustable from the driver's seat, but what's to adjust? There IS a flashing light under the dash that must indicate something - and knobs and such that I was told adjust the carb. Unfortunately, 1979 was a really knotty year to buy an engine (especially an outboard) or a fancy carb. or 'modern' ignition system as they were untried hybrid devises. Analog/digital monsters with parts very hard to come by. My Holly carb. was likely an experiment using newly available solid-state parts along with traditional components; but frankly, other than those two wires I mentioned, it sure LOOKS like just another carb. Soon this worst-of-both-worlds hybrid approach would be replaced by computers and circuit boards, eliminating many of the parts that wore out or needed adjustment.
So back to the issue:....do I sacrifice this 'special' carb and all of it's unknown unique features, chosen and installed by an engineer for Boeing who surely knew his stuff? Do I replace it with some new, over-priced carburetor or do I try to fix the original? The web says the easiest thing for stuck parts is to soak the entire carb. in cleaner - but even removing and reinstalling the dam thing looks like it would be a chore, prone to mistakes. Shown on-line, fixing the accel. pump looks easy, with exposed parts and things you can see moving - but my pump is apparently INSIDE the carb., without the components shown on UTube.
Sorry this note was was so long, Lakota. Thank you. - Jimmyneon
First and foremost,, if you do remove the carb and **soak it in Carb cleaner,, you will need a rebuild kit. carb soaks destroy the gaskets. Sounds to me, the Boeing tech was trying misc add ons . If a carb is tuned correctly, you should have NO need to make adjustments while toodling down the road. An accelerator pump isnt really that hard to replace,, you just have to make sure you have the correct pump assembly parts,, (many parts are obsolete). Another problem you may be experiencing is worn throttle plate bushings, the bushing across the throttle plate from one side to the other and those are NO fun to replace. Those will hang or slop and just add the circumstances of a blown pump assembly. A throttle pump that sprays when you push the accelerater ONLY Primes the engine to start,, when engine is running, It regulates pressure from the vacumn of the engine as fuel is delivered down the throat plates thru secondary fuel jets. If you do take the carb off,, cleaning the Float and bowl and needle valve and seat, might solve some of your problems,, all it takes is a small drop of water in the bowl to reak havoc.
A quick reply, L. W.: I learned a lot about adjusting and understanding accel. pumps thru UTube - showing a carb. on a Dodge 318 mill. But I see no exterior linkage or exterior anything re. that little squirter! It was suggested that the tall, solenoid-shaped device with two wires attached could be an electric choke (?). So it could be that, or an anti run-on valve, or something unique. Problem is, this Holly carb. wasn't available very long and is unique in some as-yet unknown ways. Problem is, the generous advise I've received may not apply well to my this 35 yr. old carb. The confusion may be my fault as I know all about neon signage but little about carburetor details, or the differences between or variations of carburetors. By using my eyes all I can do is guess about how my particular carb. works. Now if I could find a 'model number' or perhaps provide a good photo........couldn't hurt. Just where might one find an identifying number on a Holly carb.? Thanks very much, L. W. - jimmyneon.com
Model numbers on Holly carbs are usually stamped on the front lower near base, or very back of carb. They will have a 4 digit up to a 7 digit number. With some stamping methods, they can be hard to read.
As far as electric chokes, 99.99% of elect, chokes are on the Passenger side of the carb, leaving room for throttle linkage. They will be manual, heat coil and electric, Which are connected to the TOP butterfly, (the flap that closes all the way when cold, On very top of carb, inset about an 1/8 of an inch.)