Hi all - 

Yes, I'm a King of the Hill fan!  I'm going to post here directly a picture of my propane tank, and regulator - I'm not even sure there's enough room to squeeze in a bypass kit, but in the interim I want to see if I'm even thinking about this correctly.

What I want out of the bypass is to tie in a Mr Heater (the smaller one you can't plumb in to the low pressure lines).

I found this, but it seems to be something for hooking up to an external propane tank (which would be nice to have ADDITIONALLY, but first priority is to use the onboard for the Mr. Heater). 

Thoughts?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N657EZL/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3NQR7TE...

Then this was going to be the kit for the Mr. Heater to string it to the bypass:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CFWF5U/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I2NCL5IK...

My only issue with external is I have nowhere to really carry a tank.  The bay isn't tall enough, The shower is already dedicated to the catbox and the laundry basket while in motion (and I don't really like the idea of keeping it inside) which leaves mounting somehow on the back tool box and wouldn't know where to begin for that - is it even legal?  Of course I could just get tanks when and where I needed them - put down deposit, take a quick trip to where I'm setting up and leave it out until ready to leave area and then return to get my deposit back.  I've heard there are smaller pancake ones but they don't seem to be common, easy to find.  

I promise a blog post soon - doing a lot of little details right now and goes back for final mechanic work Monday; then when back I'll be on the home stretch!

Tags: bypass, heater, mr., propane

Views: 350

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

Ah, so the distance can be problematic in a charging instance.  At least I have to consider the expense of larger cables and how I would run them, and the if that is really necessary.

It sounds like I have plan going forward then.  I'll start with the 100 agm, 100 watt panel and a PWM that can be upgraded to handle more panels.  Renogy has a decent kit on Amazon.  Then just see how my usage works out.  It sounds simple, upgradable and should keep me out of too much trouble....!

The distance isn't a serious problem, its just that bigger cables are less resistive and less voltage drop so the batteries will get a better charge off the alternator when driving. Sometimes as an engineer I may over worry or over think things lol.   Any solar is good solar and any charge you can get while driving is good charge.

John 

 While that 14.8 is a tad on the high side, often after some time passes the VR will back off and charge at maybe 14.2 or so. I doubt 14.8 will stay on for a long time UNLESS you have a battery or battery cable problem. Sure a new regulator may be in order but Id check the battery voltage after maybe 15 to 30 minutes of initial high charge. They make solid state voltage regulators that will clamp at x volts but with Radio Shack closed if theres no mom n pop electronic shops near you it may be hard to find the voltage and current capacity you need.

 John T

Thanks, I'll do that then - see if it backs off after it's been running awhile.

RSS

Members

HOW TO MEMBER POSTS

  •         How To Links 

-Search Good Old RV's

-Start a New Group 

-Roof Repair Photos & Products

-Repair an RV Roof

-Pick Roof Sealer   

-Restore Aluminum

-Paint Fiberglass  

-Restore Old Finish  

-Restore A Class C  

-Service a Used RV

-Understanding RV Electrical Systems 

-Install and Wire RV Battery Banks

-Hook Up Batteries

-Get RV Insurance   

-Gas vs Diesel Trucks 

-What to Look For When Buying a Used RV

-Jack Installs Fuel Injection in his Dodge

 RV ARTISTS 

 Paige's VintageTrailer Art  

 Paige's VintageTrailerFabric

 Artist Roads                                            Sandy's Stained Glasshttps://www.pinterest.com/pin/552605816752050167/     

                      

COME JOIN US on GOOD OLD RVS

If you love classic and vintage RVs then come Join us. Come on in and have some fun. JOIN HERE NOW

Forum

RV Fabrication 2 Replies

Started by Russ Johnson in Vintage RV Salvage Yards & Used RV Parts Sources & Suppliers. Last reply by Russ Johnson 22 hours ago.

Battery Isolator did not work 9 Replies

Started by Jack Wasmuth in RV Repair & Maintence. Last reply by postman yesterday.

air conditioning 1983 southwind class A 7 Replies

Started by phil moulton in RV Repair & Maintence. Last reply by Gary Rowe on Monday.

Videos

  • Add Videos
  • View All

JOIN US - COME ON IN!

If you love classic and vintage RVs then come Join us.

 Come on in and have some fun.         JOIN HERE NOW!

 Dedicated to a simpler, more rewarding and fun way of life in a Good Old RV... 

Vintage Travel Trailers, Vintage Campers, Camper Restoration, Bus Conversions, Vintage RV Forums, Old RVs, Tiny Homes, Boondocking

YOUR OWN GORVs T-Shirt!

A work of art by member Paige Bridges

Get your Good Old RVs T-Shirt HERE

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

 Disclaimer - Please Read it

Enjoy this site and use it totally at your own risk.

By using or viewing this site YOU agree to Hold Harmless anyone associated with it including other members. Also, YOU agree that YOU are solely responsible for ANY and ALL actions, results or damages. Members "opinions" are just that and any repair or alteration comments or recommendations are by folks who are not licensed repair  or mechanical professionals. Any repairs or modifications you do totally at YOUR OWN RISK. Use licensed professionals for all work to avoid possible serious injury or damage. Use  banks for purchases. You could get computer viruses or hacks. Have fun!

Copywrite & Trade Mark Registered GoodOldRV© ,GoodOldRVs©, GoodOldRVs.com©,GoodOldRVs.net©,GoodOldRV.Com©

© 2018   Created by Russ Johnson.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service