Started next project

[Russell E Johnson]

I started my next project, we are going to replace the carpet in our old girl and I got started tearing out the old carpet.  I am going to varnish the wood for the time being and sometime in the future we are thinking of putting a laminate floor.  Anyone have experience with laminate flooring in an RV?

[Russell E Johnson]

Thank you Pat, I will do that right now.

[david craft]

lemme see here...you got an 87 southwind? I think you got a laminate floor. Right in there about that time southwind did a curious thing. Aluminum sheeting with foam core and 3/8 ply on top for the floor. The tell tale sign is the aluminum sheet on the bottom. I fixed 2 of these floors with the same problem. Heat from the mufflers melted the foam and you can guess the rest. Make sure you get some kind of heat shield on those, especially in hot climates. they are strong while they stay laminated...otherwise you got 3/8" on squeaky foam. I got ideas on flooring but Bernice prolly wont like it. hehe...Things I hate; cable operated foot flush toilets, carpet in the bathroom, and seams in the flooring. you asked about hardwood floors so I'll stop here. Lemme know if you want to know how I would approach this...

[Russell E Johnson]

David, I will always take your input.  tell me how you would approach the flooring.  And good memory, yes we an 87 Southwind.  When I pulled the carpet there was plywood underneath it.  I need to look at the steps to see if I can tell how thick the plywood is.  I didn't pay attention to that today, one track mind and I get sidetracked often.  LOL

[david craft]

i didnt remember...i just dug around in your profile.. As you can guess I'm a little skeptical on the floor. The pics look a little different than the floors I seen. Is that some ply on edge I see in the middle? Say the old carpet and pad was 1/2" thick. So you got at least that much space before you need to trim cabinet doors and such. You got that wad under all the cabinets as well. Pull the toilet and the flange, it needs to go on top of the flooring for the seal to work. You'll need to pull some cabinet doors and such just to facilitate the underlayment. I'd go at least 3/8"cdx or ac or more if the floor is at all suspect. Keep the segments as large as you can and try to seam at joists. I'd predrill and countersink after a trial fit. Then I'd use construction adhesive and screw, working my way off the floor. Let that set for a day. The flooring guys use a gray material to "float" for a smooth finish. Then I would use vinyl for everything but the cab. Not glue on the edge stuff and not the thin crud with the white foam backing. The good stuff with adhesive under all. I had a vinyl guy do a real convoluted floor with one piece and no template. He was that good. razor knife all carpet off at the walls before hand. Now your up above the fray. The vinyl should be within an 1/8" of the wall all the way around. Now I just run a fine bead of caulk to seal and keep the vinyl from lifting. Really good vinyl guys almost dont need caulk. Thats your onepiece seamless floor. You'll have some molding in the toilet pedestal area but it wont look bad. I'd do all but the float and vinyl myself. If you go other than vinyl then door mods ect... may be involved but it will be doable. Pay attention to the converter if it sits on the floor and needs to slide out for service, you may need to relocate upwards accordingly. the vinyl guy shouldnt be more than 400. Your extra waterheater money will cover that...lol

[Russell E Johnson]

"The pics look a little different than the floors I seen. Is that some ply on edge I see in the middle?"

Yes, that is vertical plywood edge going down the middle of the MH.  It needs sanding in some places and filling in other spots.  There are counter sunk screw heads that also need filling. There is going to be a lots of prep work to be done to get the floor ready to be sealed with marine varnish much less for a floating floor of pergo.

[Jim Stoltz]

My '84 Allegro has aluminum sheeting with 3/4" plywood over top of it. They sprayed foam all over the bottom of it. My mufflers have been relocated to just behind the cab and they hang low enough that heat shouldn't be an issue.

I did some shopping for laminate flooring and settled on some ceramic-tile looking stuff from Home Depot. Floating, interlocking. I haven't installed it yet but am interested in what I can put in between the floor and tile. I had cut a small section of floor out in order to replace some fuel lines. I also cut the carpet out of the bathroom. I put linoleum in both areas. It is REALLY cold compared to the carpet. I'll put area rugs down anyway, but given the fact that the carpet and padding is so thick I should have room for some insulation.

[david craft]

Yeah Jim the floor in southwinds of this time period had a foam core that was integral in a sandwich construction where the foam was part of the strength. 3/8" ply above and aluminum below. Southwind did this in the floors, Winnebago did it in the roof.

[david craft]

Sorry Jim, didnt read all your post. Allegro did like to foam everything down below...one of a few manufacturers I seen do that. You have to chip tons just to service it. The hallways in RVs are so traffic intensive, I get a little nervous trying some kinda foam other than what is used with the pergo, even though there is no doubt something that will work. Possibly insulate fromthe bottom? Maybe something as turning those heaters ducts towards the floor will help...;)

[Jim Stoltz]

Yes - I have had to chip foam off of lots of stuff to service it. It does a good job insulating, but where it's breached it also collects moisture. One of the gas tank straps is rusted almost completely through but that's the worse damage I've uncovered thus far.

I've read good things about the Allure (Home Depot brand) in RVs so I settled on that. I found a link, which I now cannot find, where someone put some type of insulation under the Allure.

[Lakota Wolf]

I replaced my Linolium flooring and carpet with hardwood flooring,(snap and lock Pergo). I did do the pre-investigation about the added weight factor, (37 lbs additional weight btw.).It has held up for 4 yrs exceptionaly well considering how much the RV moves and flexes etc. The foam underlayment was a MUST do to keep the flooring actually in place.Its very easy to clean and has actually insulated the flooring. I did how ever put short runners down the middle for those mid night tips to the potty room, and nothing,, and I MEAN nothing will wake you up faster then a cold floor under your bare feet.. And rule #1   Never ever have Carpet in a bathroom,, (washable floor mat is ok). And having a door mat at the entrance is a plus to wipe feet off on. Like David mentioned,,, take into consideration the difference of the cabinet clearance and the lower clearance of the walls where the original carpet went under the walls.

I am fortunate to have a 5th wheel with NO exhaust heat radiating underneath, which will eventually break down the foam insulation under the flooring.

[david craft]

I like the added R- value. Sounds like its holding up well. Maybe the underlayent I mentioned and the foam and pergo. I just pull doors and table saw if necessary. Once again, it depends on whats going on with that floor and how solid it is.

[Rich Thomas]

Don't have any laminate advice but I'm into a carpet pull out of my own. I've been remodeling my non wheeled home and can't make up my mind on hardwood or carpet or? but the old carpet 21yrs. has to go. I figured I'd pull it up now and see if I can put up with bare floors and then decide. Maybe do my MH with the left over when I'm done. good luck with your project.Check out Thrift Stores when you go to purchase your flooring; It seams to be a favorite at least here where I live for donors to give them for resale.