Winterization? Is that really a word??? It is for us RVers right??

 

  Anyway, it wont be until after Christmas we head for Florida, so the last couple sunny days I winterized my Class C and put it to bed. In case any newbies are interested, heres all what I did.

  1) Added a bit of diluted bleach water to the three fresh water holding tanks then gave them a good flush n drain by parking the RV in the uphill manner so they drain as best possible. I also drained the hot water heater then set the by pass valves so it doest take in more water. I also fill n flush the black and gray water holding tanks thoroughly. 

  2) Put 4 gallons of RV anti freeze into the tank, parked it so it flows toward the tank outlet (pump input),,,,,,turned on all faucets one at a time until red anti freeze came out alllllllllllll lines. Then I re set the hot water by pass valves so it takes water/anti freeze,,,,,, opened a hot water faucet so anti freeze flows into the tank and have the tanks bottom exterior drain valve open so I see red anti freeze draining out. I do that until all the holding tank anti freeze is depleted SURE I know there are better ways to use less AFZ like forced back pumping and air purging etc etc BUT this is just the way I like to do it SO THERE LOL

 3) Then I take one more gallon of AFZ and pour a bit more down all the drains and finally close all the exterior dump valves and pour a bit more in so AFZ is up against the dump valve seals verus them setting there dry.

 4) I have the gas tank relatively full, add a bunch of gas Stabilizer (StaBil) plus gas line anti freeze, maybe some Sea Foam now n then, and then drive the RV plus exercise the Generator frequently so stale gas doesnt gum up n varnish the carbs and fuel injectors etc.

 5) I use my air blow nozzle to clean and purge and blow out the burner and chimney and air intake and flu pipes in  refrigerator, furnace and hot water heater. I dont want soot and carbon building up anywhere.

 6) I spray WD 40 and/or white lithium grease about anywhere I can find lol to reduce corrosion. I check all fluid levels. The RV has already been greased, oil changed (Mobil 1 plus Lucas Synthetic Stabilizer), radiator flushed re filled n checked (super cool wetting agent and anti rust additives), tires aired up and before I leave I add Lucas fuel cleaner and later Lucas valve cleaner and top oil lube. Fuel filter was changed last fall. Have the Propane tank filled. Tranny was force flushed n refilled with Synthetic tranny fluid and Lucas and has an auxiliary cooler.

 7) I plug into shore power every now n then so the Converter/Charger keeps my three house batteries topped off.

 8) Before we leave I check tire pressure then once we get to Memphis I stay at a regular campground so I can flush n fill the tanks with water then were ready to rock n roll

 Ya know this is work, but its fun work I enjoy. As you can see, Preventive Maintenance is high on my priority list. I'd rather do some work now then break down on the road when its freezing and raining and pay big time for repairs.

 

  Ol John T in Indiana, (Conservative Christian Patriot and Fuddy Duddy) God Bless yall n God Bless the USA

  1995 Four Winds Chateau Sport 26 Ft Class C

  454 Chevy with 4L80E Overdrive Tranny with auxiliary tranny cooler. Towing package including 7 qt oil pan and engine oil cooler. (Im a Chevy kinda guy, I got sick of then dern old 460 Fords lol)

  110 gallon Fresh water holding tanks, 80 gallons gray water holding

  Three 125 Amp/Hr Deep Cycle Marine/RV house batteries and rooftop Solar Panel

  Onan 4KW Genset

  A DRY CAMPING SPECIAL

Tags: Winterization, how to winterize an rv

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This was a really good article . I had never winterized a Class A Rv until this year . But believe it or not , This is exactly what I did to mine before I read this . Doesn't mean that I am smart by any means . But it obviously was done correct and this was a great check list against myself .

 

Thanks Rev D.

  Hey if you did all that also, I'D SAY YOURE A SMART GUY !!!!!!!! Many like to use a pump out of the bottle to back force feed the AFZ to save on how many AFZ bottles they need or use air pressure BUT I like knowing for sure and like the AFZ to be in the $80 water pump itself so thats how I do it, I catch the AFZ on sale for $2.88. If you ever had a line burst that was hidden way under a floor or way behind a cabinet that you cant get to unless you tear the RV apart (and almost get divorced in the process) YOU WILL BE GLAD TO SPEND $20 TO WINTERIZE IT LIKE I DO LOL

 A hot water heater by pass is one of the most important and helpful things a body can install, otherwise you cant forward force AFZ thru the hot water lines because it wants to use 6 gallons to fill n purge the tank first.

  I got all the mechanicals done and the "first wife" is going through the interior for a final once over and I'm thinkin Florida although thats still 2 months away, but by golly I will be ready NOW and not have to do it outside when its cold n blowin snow.

 

  Ol John T and all

I used to do all of this too. It took me two gallons of pink stuff to do the trick but I shutoff the water heater with the by-pass valves. The running of the pumped pink stuff then filled up the p-traps. But this year I discovered that I have a winterizing package already installed. There are two lines facing down inside of the wheels. One gray and one red. Simply unscrew the caps and open up the faucets and done. I hope it works!

   Heres the deal YES THAT WORKS IFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF the plumbing is allllllllllllll installed correctly (assuming its a gravity drain system??) with the lines all sloped with no low spots or valleys so alllllllllllllll the water drains out. A body, however, still needs to insure theres no water left inside the pump housing (or it has AFZ) and pour some AFZ down the drains to fill the traps. It can also help if in addition to the draining if you use an air compressor adapter to force any low spots of water out. It can also help if you open it then drive up n down n around some hills to insure it all gets drained out.  Problem is for the OLD RV's that system wasnt installed and/or the lines have been moved over the years. Like you, I HOPE it works and likely it will, but dont call me if it dont lol

 

  John T

I have your number on speed dial. NOT!
AMEN  on the nontoxic for sure . Lady Dog , smart pooch . " Sit Ubu sit . Good dog " ! lol

   OOPS my bad, I forgot to look on the bottle to see, thought any of the regular red/pink RV AFZ was Non Toxic, silly meeeeeeeeee. Anywho once we hit Memphis I hook to a city water hose n flush n fill n clean her all out PLUS we NEVER drink fresh water out of our tanks anyway, we carry that seperate n keep a couple gallon jugs on hand for drinking n cooking purposes. Heck the lucky "first wife" has to have some chores to do right?? 

 

  Ol John T and all

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