Working on my 1971 Shasta Camper ~ Wondering if anyone has used flexible molding in the interior?

I am in the midst with help from my hubby restoring and renovating my 1971 Shasta 1500 Camper.  I am wondering if anyone has used this flexible molding when redoing their interior?  The molding the previous owner used is the foam type "wooden" molding and they didn't do a very good job joining the cuts together, so I am thinking of using this one: http://flexiblemillwork.com/quarter-round.html  in the 3/4 size.  If so, do you have any tips you can share when installing it? I am thinking I will use the 3M 5200 Adhesive and Sealant to do this job.  It's a marine adhesive and sealer and since there was a leak in one of the corners in the back, I think this will do double duty to ensure it doesn't happen again.

Anyway, any pointers, tips or tricks you may have and would like to share would be appreciated!  Thanks, love this ning.  It has been a great help to me.

Have a great Memorial Day weekend, unfortunuately, the camper is not ready for her maiden voyage, as planned, lol!!

Tags: Camper, Shasta, Vintage, camper, flexible, molding, restore, vintage

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Not terribly sure what your questions refer to.

If you are redoing the interior walls and are making tight joints, you may want to google 'gimp'. A vinyl 'J'; mould, commonly used, still available, great for radius and curved walls.

Using a wood quarter round that is 3/4" and has to follow a curve and/or radius without adequate backing for nailing is asking for disappointment down the road.

If wood is your choice maybe consider screen mold left and right, as in an 'L' shape. Small profile, each piece only follows the curve OR radius, not both.

If you are interested and wish installation tips, let me know.

As for your leak, this is very important:

You CANNOT fix, seal, deal with or whatever any leak you may have  from the inside. If your leak shows ingress at the lower left corner, the actual penetration point may very likely be at the top right outside corner. Water, as air follows the path of least resistance. You have to trace a leak to the actual ingress point.

Any sealing attempt inside will only serve to redirect the problem - not fix it.

The above, however, is a different topic.

Hi Terry, thanks so much for your input...sorry for the confusion about my questions.  The moulding I want to use is flexible and it's not a pvc moulding, but rather a polyurethane based moulding which curves easily and comes in a roll, it's available from flexible millwork on line, I provided the link in the original post.  It appears to be what I am looking for, we did not have to remove any walls during our process, because there were no leaks, (lucky us, lol).  I just removed the wooden moulding they put in place because they did not cut the joints properly and you could see them. So I removed them, have painted in the corner and thought the flexible moulding would be best.  It states on the flexible millwork website to nail every 6 inches after using a waterproof adhesive. I like the idea of not having all those  unsightly joints showing.  The gimp would not be wide enough without it looking like a "cowboy rope", so this is why I chose to go this route.  It can also be painted (after installation) so it will match the walls.

With regard to the leak, we are searching for it and think we found the area on the lower corner of the camper, so we will repair that and then use the marine adhesive to attach the flexible molding.  

I also just purchased Dr Tolley's Creeking Crack Cure from Vintage Trailer Supply and the reviews on this seem to be over the moon with respect to helping seal any small hairline cracks which could create an issue.  Have  you ever used this?  I will be giving it a try and let  you know how it works.  I think I am going to use it around the windows, just to be safe.  

I haven't ordered the flexible moulding yet, but when I do, I will share pics and let you know how it goes.  In the meantime, if I have any questions, I will surely be posting for your additional advice, thanks so much!

This is good advice from Terry. Must find and fix the leak(s) first.  Also, marine 5200 is a near permanent bond; often used on sailboats to affix winch bases and cleats, etc. It is VERY DIFFICULT to break the bond and scrape off. Just an fyi  on that. 

Found the leak!! There was water in the outside lens at the top and sure enough there was a small hole that allowed the water to get in.  We decide to remove the entire back wall paneling, along with the insulation, which was not saturated except in that area.  When we removed the paneling, we were surprised to see the frame was in very good shape, no rotting wood, which we all know that is good news for anyone who is working a restoration.  My hubby didn't like the fact that there were no supports except in the corners and around the windows, so he fixed that as well.  We will get the new paneling put back in this area hopefully sometime this week. 

Thanks Pat, I  did some research on this and we have a friend who works for Fountain Boats, so we were thinking this wold be a good sealant/adhesive to use on the outside or possibly Lexel which a non-silicone based sealant used for metal roofing.  Haven't made up on my mind, so we will see.  Thanks again for your input, love this forum.  Have a great Sunday

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