Hi all.

These 2 images show, more or less, the shape the interior is in, in my Grumman.

I know a few of you have done fairly extensive restorations and I was hoping to get some input.

As you can see the roof is not supported except by the walls forward of the bathroom.

In fact the bathroom wall is just attached to wood strips screwed to the side of the fiberglassed wood (?) ribs that run across the roof. These panels or walls do not appear to support the roof at all.

So the big question is....

Are the walls load bearing or do I need to add some support? The roof is clearly very very heavy.

I am eventually trying to make the layout as open plan as possible.

The other thing is it would appear that the channels at the wall bottom where it meets the floor was designed to take a 2 by and be used to frame the wall up.

The previous owner told me he removed no framing and that's just how it was made. Yikes!

Under the window you see there were two vertical pieces of wood joining the two horizontal ones that I replaced due to rot BUT there was no wood that reached either the floor of the ceiling.

I am planning on framing these walls but the big question is whether the roof needs support or if the walls are designed as is to do that?

Thanks in advance for the help!!

PS the window in the 2nd picture is covered and has a small fridge under it and a blue tote lid.

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Kirk

Well. Its time for an update. Haven't done too much. Getting held up my a seized hub.

My drivers side rear wheel is locked solid. I really need to move the RV to a different place in the yard as its blocking up my access pretty good.

Managed to the get the outer rim off yesterday. Had to go get a new impact wrench as my old harbor freight one had given up the ghost. Bought a Kobalt one from Lowes. Much better.

Don't know what the issue is. I jacked up the other 3 wheels and got them free enough to tow it but the drivers rear is locked solid.

I had to order a 1 1/2 impact socket to get the outer lug nuts off. I'm now waiting on a 13/16 square drive impact socket to get the inners off and get the wheel off.

Once its off Ill be able to try and free it up. I'm hoping its the brakes that have seized and not a bad axle. Anyways that's whats happening.

Did you get the Grumman running yet?

Hi Paul,

     I was wondering how you were getting along. I would bet that it's the brake that is locked up, those things can be a real pain in the ass! You can verify that the axle and rear end is OOK by just pulling the axle out enough to clear the studs on the hub, it should turn with the driveshaft then, it will still be engaged with the splines in the rear end gears. If the adjusters will turn, you might be able to loosen them up enough to free the wheel. The big thing will be that no one has ever put any never seize on the adjuster screws, so I wouldn't count on them turning. That's when the fun begins. Parts for these things are almost non existent. They are a Bendix brake and maybe a heavy truck place could come up with something. Years ago I used to replace the adjuster blocks with new ones, but, I'm betting they aren't available any more either. I do know someone here that has some parts if you need them. I sold him most of my International spare parts. 

      You're lucky the lugs came off  like that, I've had the darned things come off together with the inside one stuck in the outer nut, You can ruin a rim with that problem! Don't forget Drivers side are left handed threads too!

   I did try to get my old beast started the other day, but my old batteries are getting pretty weak, it only cranked for a few minutes , not enough to get fuel pumped up. It did fire on starting fluid though. With the price of batteries these days, I can't justify new ones till I'm ready to hit the road again. I grab some trade ins at work that still had some life in them.

    I've been waiting for warmer weather to get started on some of my projects, and in the last month or so built 2 model airplanes just to keep busy! This last weekend We brought home my Stinson and I'm sorting parts and getting it put away!

 

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Oh wow. Yep that's a plane alright!

I know you can save a few bucks at interstate batteries by asking for blemished or "blem" batteries.Still pricey though. But then everything is these days.

Luckily I read the manual before I pulled the outer wheel off and saw left hand thread!

One thing I don't know is what the torque spec is on the lug nuts.

The previous owner spent a few hundred bucks on the factory manual for the 1510 MHC from binder planet.

Under the wheels section is says see torque spec table on page one...nope not there lol

Once I find out Ill get some torque sticks. I didn't even know there was such a thing until yesterday.

Success !

Shoes were rusted to the drum. Drum was pretty badly rusted. Managed to take the high spots off with a screwdriver then hit it with some grit from a belt sander belt that I tore up.. Cleaned up pretty good. Will need turning before I'm thru but I think it will be good enough to get the drum back on so I can move the beast into a better spot in the yard.

Now I need to work out how to bring the shoes in and away from the drum so it will turn.

And also so I can get it back on!

The manual is a little confusing. I'll read up!

Kirk

I guess Ill start a new post on the brakes as all of this is under load bearing walls and it got off topic. That way someone may find it and it will be useful to them

Hey Kirk

Just wanted to check in and see if you are doing ok over there.

I moved the RV. Took some doing but know its in a much better spot.

Hi Paul,

       Yup, still doing OK here, been busy trying to do stuff by myself and making bigger projects because I was too damned independant to try to get help! I have a big old Sears air compressor that a friend gave me a few years back, I have never drained it because the drain plug was rounded off an I couldn't get a wrench on it. It was time to finally get it fixed, This thing is heavy, and is on a couple of 2X10 boards, I decided to mount some casters on a couple of 2X6s and bolt those to the 2X10s. Now I need to raise this thing up high enough to get the caster assemblies under the 2X10s, so, I took another 2X6, pivoted it over an 8X8 block and pushed down on the other end with my skid steer, That got the compressor end up high enough.  So, I moved the 8X8 and 2X6 to the other end and did the same thing, well, that's when it all went wrong, the compressor slid sideways and then tipped and came crashing down on the concrete floor.  Of course it landed on the flywheel and bent the crankshaft! I guess I mentioned all kinds of things the Good Lord wouldn't want to hear, LOL. It looks like the shaft wobbles almost a full quarter of an inch and the heavy flywheel makes it shake like a California  earthquake! It's a cast iron crankshaft, so, I'm thinking I don't have much of a chance to straighten it without it breaking, a new shaft is $267.00, so that's out, but I did find another compressor head on marketplace for $150. I'm thinking that will be the cheapest way to fix this. So, after the 3rd of June I will be taking a road trip up into Wisconsin! Always something!

       So, you got your brakes back together! Are they working OK now? I had a heck of a time bleeding mine, I have a pressure bleeder that should have made life a lot easier, but when I put it on the master cylinder it pushed a lot of fluid out the end of the brand new master for some reason, I had to round up a peddle pusher and manually bleed them, PITA for sure !

   It's been raining just enough here  this week to keep the lawn wet enough so I don't want to try mowing, I hope it dries off over the weekend so I can get it cut before it's a foot high! I just had it looking pretty good too! 

    I just missed out on another RV  on an International chassis, It showed up on Marketplace and when I called the guy said there were a bunch of callers already and it would be like first come first serve, I got in touch with my buddy who is also an IH nut and runs a towing company to see if he could move it for me, but by then there was someone there to pick it up already. It was a 1974 Starcraft with about 20,000 original miles! They are still out there. the buyer picked it up with a 1958 IH tow truck!

       Well, I hope you're having a better week than I am! Take care and stay dry! Talk to you soon.       Kirk

Kirk,

That sounds a lot like something I would do!

Sorry it turned out that way. There's an old champion industrial 3 phase compressor going for free on marketplace locally. I don't have 3 phase otherwise I'd snap it up.

I had a family member come visit 2 weekends ago and put him to work helping with the brakes. The adjusting wheels are stuck solid but we managed to move the springed hinges and move the shoes in just enough for the drum to have clearance and reassembled it.

Then this last weekend I hooked it up to the truck and towed in to a slightly better place in the yard. But first I had to move one of the boats and disassemble the canopy and move a bunch of stuff that was there because the RV had blocked easy access to the work shop. So that all took a while.

So now I see her every time I look out of a window or step onto my deck. I'm hoping that gives me the incentive to check the fuel lines, clean the carb and connect the tranny lines and cooler and such.

I figure if I get her running and moving I can get her to a better spot.

I have the hand brake that should be good enough to stop it in the yard...I hope. lol

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Hey Paul, 

 If you need an air compressor grab that one anyway, you can always swap out the motor for a single phase or buy or build a phase converter. Champion is a darned good compressor, it would b e hard to find one as good as that one and the PRICE IS RIGHT!! I picked up a little cheapie Puma compressor a couple weeks back that was a freebie too. It runs and makes air and that was all I was looking for. I have it in the old garage and used it to blow the Hickory nuts out of the motor on my milling machine. I like to have air wherever I'm working when I need it!  I did get a really good deal on that mill because it was 3 phase, it was at a garage sale, and not many home garages have 3 phase, the guy was moving that weekend and it had to go. I rigged up a phase converter and it works great (now that the motor turns) . I used a small Phasomatic static converter that I had for the surface grinder I used to have and connected it to a 3 HP 3 phase motor, Now I have a Rotary converter that will start any of the 3 phase stuff I have!  Have a great day! 

Ah! so back to the Joy's of RV restoration. Lol.

So having determined that the engine was a 304 and not a 392 by looking at the engine stamp I decided that the original 2bbl carb should go back on. So I found one on amazon that a bunch of IH people said worked great and ordered it. 

If you remember it had a 4bbl on it with what I presumed was an adapter plate. Anyways i just got the new one ready to install and pulled the old 4bbl carb.

Ok. So it wasnt an adapter plate. The intake manifold is all 392!

So I guess its carb rebuild time! Bummer.

Hi Paul,

     That is really strange, I don't think I have ever seen a 304 with a 4 bbl carb! I wonder what the story on your engine is, Maybe somewhere along the way it was built up for racing or something. Anyway now you need to find a 4 to 2 adapter plate, that is another option, then use the new 2 barrel carb. Nothing is ever easy!

       Did you manage to grab that air compressor? I opened up a new can of worms the other day, I found an International Cub Low Boy on Market place for what I thought was a good price, It was supposed to have a bad shift fork in the transmission. Well, it did, but that was only the beginning of the situation. Turns out the clutch was junk too. These things are really chintzy, I have never seen a cheaper built tractor! I actually thought with it being an International, it would be a good quality machine, WRONG!  The clutch is on the front of the transmission, not the back of the engine, There is a shaft about 3 feet long that drives the clutch disc, so this thing works backwards from a normal clutch. That driveshaft is driven by a 5/16 bolt that goes through the shaft and a flange on the back of the flywheel, so it should act as a shear pin if this thing ever gets overloaded.  It has a starter generator instead of a real starter, but it's a 4 cylinder water cooled engine! And that part of it seems to be OK!

        Always something with this old stuff! It's been hot as hades up here, and it's so dry that the grass is turning brown! Not pretty but it saves on mowing gas! We need water here, the farmers are going to be in trouble this year!

     Well, good luck with carb  dilemma. I would try for an adapter plate, but I don't know how it would run with it.  Looks like there might be some nasty weather down your way, I hope it doesn't get too crazy. Take care and stay safe.   Talk to you soon, Kirk 

I have a Toro 16-38hxl ride on that I need to change the deck belt on when I get the time... I try to stop myself buying all things IH / Grumman.

I nearly pulled the trigger on a Grumman sportboat going cheap locally. No title though so I passed. I also passed on the compressor.

I pulled the carb that the previous said was a brand new install 3 years ago. Its all gummed up. A plastic float on one side a metal on on the other. Hand made gaskets.

It's so gummed up and crusty its unreal.

The rebuild kit is about $45 with shipping from Holley. The adapter to use the 2bbl is $17 with free shipping on Amazon. I guess Ill get the adapter and also the rebuild kit.

I'm in the process of cleaning up the Holley but man this thing is nasty!

I'm getting both in case the 2bbl doesn't cut it.

The previous also told me he drained the gas tank and its was like new so I put 10 gallons in and all I get at the carb is liquid varnish! So Ill need to drain the tank again and drop it I guess. Oh the joys of vintage RV motors!

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