Rating:
  • Currently 0/5 stars.

Views: 101

Comment

You need to be a member of Good Old RVs to add comments!

Join Good Old RVs

Comment by Jim Stoltz on September 19, 2015 at 7:28am

Thanks Jack! I'll try that - can't hurt.

Comment by Jack Wasmuth on September 19, 2015 at 7:17am

Jim I have a little trick for that seal if it is not cracked or broken. Add a 1/2 cup of brake fluid to the New trans mission fluid and filter. The brake fluid will swell the seal and it will not hurt the transmission. I learned this from a very good transmission re builder.

Comment by Jim Stoltz on September 19, 2015 at 7:13am

Yep - it's a never ending cycle. The trans *might* seal itself up with use. I've had a couple of summer-use only cars that would puke fluid out the tailshaft seal when they sat all winter, and then stop once it started driving them again. But, I need to replace the shoes on the driveshaft-mounted parking brake. They're worn, and now likely soaked in transmission fluid. So I can pop a new seal in while I'm at it. I haven't changed to fluid yet since I got it (shame on me) so I'll do that, too. I have a deep transmission cooler pan to install, too. It has a drain plug and a bung for the temp gauge (it was never hooked up). It's made by Derale and has 5/8" tubes running through the pan, front to back, that supposedly use the air moving under the vehicle to cool the fluid in the pan. Seems gimmicky but it was no more expensive than any other deep pan so I snagged it.

Comment by Russell E Johnson on September 18, 2015 at 8:39pm

Yes, I agree Jim, the fluid should be in the tranny not on the ground. but at least it is the rear seal and not a front one where you would have to drop the tranny to fix it. Good time to swap the fluid and filter, get it all set and ready to go again. Seems like a never ending cycle, fix something and something else decides it is lonely and needing attention LOL. That is what is happening to our MH, first the water heater, then the furnace, then the fridge, and now both AC units. I hope it stops sometime, this is really cutting into our traveling money. :(  But the AC units will have to wait till after our excursion to Arizona for Thanksgiving to see our son and grand-kids. But they will be in by April, Lord willing, and we will be ready for our summer trip. :)

Comment by Jim Stoltz on September 18, 2015 at 8:11pm

Thanks!

On the cruise control...when I put the new engine in it didn't have a bracket for the cruise control's throttle cable so I did away with it. I took out the control box and wiring. Not too long ago I noticed that there was a wire under the dash with all the insulation melted off of it. It was dead so I didn't think much of it. Tonight when I went to cut the upper rad support free I saw that it was the source of the melted wiring so I hacked it all out. I still need to remove the wiring and cabling from the underhood area, but at least I freed up the rad support. I'm going to try to flush the engine out before I hook the radiator up. I figure I'll hook up the trans cooler lines and oil lines but loop the radiator hoses on themselves while I'm flushing it. I'll keep an eye on the temps.

And, the trans has decided to start leaking at the rear seal for no apparent reason. Noticed a puddle under it today. Good news is that the fluid is nice and red - not burnt - but I'd prefer it to be in the trans rather than the driveway.

Comment by Lakota Wolf on September 18, 2015 at 6:21pm

Looking good Jim..

Comment by Russell E Johnson on September 18, 2015 at 5:25pm

Thank you for explaining that, never saw that setup before, sounds just like a wreck that almost went up in smoke. Good thing you cut it all out instead of trying to fix it. There has to be after market setups that are better than that, if you want to reinstall a cruise control system.

Comment by Jim Stoltz on September 18, 2015 at 5:20pm
The cruise control motor and vacuum reservoir were installed on top of the upper rad support. They prevented me from removing it, making it hard, if not impossible to get the new radiator in. I cut the wires and throttle cable so I could remove upper rad support. The cruise control never worked anyway. I never investigated but the power wire had all the insulation fried off of it.
Comment by Russell E Johnson on September 18, 2015 at 5:13pm

Sorry Jim, you lost me, non-working cruise control bits? Hate to be so dense but I don't get it.

Comment by Jim Stoltz on September 18, 2015 at 5:07pm

It went in easier than it came out because I hacked away the non-working cruise control bits, which allowed me to completely remove the upper rad support. Just need to hook up all the plumbing now. 

Members

HOW TO MEMBER POSTS

  •         How To Links 

-Search Good Old RV's

-Start a New Group 

-Roof Repair Photos & Products

-Repair an RV Roof

-Pick Roof Sealer   

-Understanding RV Electrical Systems 

-Get RV Insurance   

-What to Look For When Buying a Used RV

-Jack Installs Fuel Injection in his Dodge 

 RV ARTISTS 

 

 Artist Roads                                              

                      

JOIN US AT GOOD OLD RVS

If you love classic and vintage RVs then come Join us. Come on in and have some fun. JOIN HERE NOW

Forum

Help

Started by Brianna Scroggins in RV Repair & Maintence Apr 22.

1973 Scamper Class C electrical question 1 Reply

Started by Ken Vanderburg in RV Repair & Maintence. Last reply by Jimco_W001 Mar 29.

Starcraft Ceiling Repair

Started by Donald Morgenroth in RV Repair & Maintence Mar 18.

Events

Videos

  • Add Videos
  • View All

JOIN US - COME ON IN!

If you love classic and vintage RVs then come Join us.

 Come on in and have some fun.      

 Dedicated to a simpler, more rewarding and fun way of life in a Good Old RV... 

Vintage Travel Trailers, Vintage Campers, Camper Restoration, Bus Conversions, Vintage RV Forums, Old RVs, Tiny Homes, Boondocking

A work of art by member Paige Bridges

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

 Disclaimer - Please Read it

Enjoy this site and use it totally at your own risk.

By using or viewing this site YOU agree to Hold Harmless anyone associated with it including other members. Also, YOU agree that YOU are solely responsible for ANY and ALL actions, results or damages. Members "opinions" are just that and any repair or alteration comments or recommendations are by folks who are not licensed repair  or mechanical professionals. Any repairs or modifications you do totally at YOUR OWN RISK. Use licensed professionals for all work to avoid possible serious injury or damage. Use  banks for purchases.  Have fun!

Copywrite & Trade Mark Registered GoodOldRV© ,GoodOldRVs©, GoodOldRVs.com©,GoodOldRVs.net©,GoodOldRV.Com©

© 2024   Created by Jimco_W001.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service