need help

[Edward Mayfield]

I am new to the rv world I have a 1969 prowler 20 foot tow behind trailer and on oct I lost all my a/c lights in the trailer except for the bath room. I have power to all lights  when the lights are off but when I turn a light on then I lose all a/c power to the lights. To me it sounds like a bad braker how ever none have triped, can some one help me or maybe point me in the right direction please. and it just had to happen on my birthday to

[Rich Thomas]

John its funny but if you look at the post times of our Wire Nut theory you will see we posted within a minute of each other( YOURS WAS NOT UP WHEN i POSTED MINE) so at least two of us are ON the same page. I think in the INTEREST  of ED's   mental health I'll bowl out and let you proceed too many cooks so to speak!

[John "T" Nordhoff]

  Rich, EXACTLY that's why I told him to remove the wire nuts and look because a broken or loose or carboned connection may not be visible just by looking or checking wire nut tightness. It has to be a broke or loose or burned connection or else someone didn't get the insulation stripped ??? The screw connections  are easier to diagnose because you can see if a wire is broken or the screw is loose etc.

 Hope he finds it, that's about all we can do for him over the net lol

 John T

[Rich Thomas]

some things you can check regardless of the power type. I know you looked at all the J boxes and wire nuts but here's something to look for that is a common failure, wire nuts suck. go back through and recheck the wire nuts. Pull them off one at a time and look for bad connections things like overly tightened wire nuts can break a wire and also one lead can be pushed off the other to the point that the wire jacket is insulating the connection between the conductors.  Also check the connections at the light switches. those that the leads push into the back are notorious for loose connections try putting the connections on the side posts of the switch or just change it out, their cheep. If all this fails to resolve the issue I have some other things to do that I will follow up with. I'll monitor the thread and try to stay current. all these checks are power off of coerce.

[John "T" Nordhoff]

  TUESDAY NOV. 4  Edward,

  In response to your last post. So, if a voltmeter indicates full voltage HOWEVER when you turn on an appliance it flickers and fails to work THAT STILL SOUNDS LIKE A LOOSE, BURNED, BROKEN, CARBONED CONNECTION    BUT WHERE ??????

 I have seen wires break at the very outer edge/end of a wire nut, to find them you have to remove the nut NOT just look and insure its twisted tight. And at the distribution box they use screws and its pretty easy to see if a wire is broke or loose there. Another possible bad connection place is at a receptacle especially if it uses a push in versus an external screw.

 Best I have to offer, good luck.

 John T

[Rich Thomas]

Okay I'm in Ohio and the time diff is a killer but lets try to work through this before you gut the camper. by being on the same circuit that eliminates the power source and the breaker and puts us probably somewhere between the last light to work and the first one that does not. now I assume your lights are 12v DC is this correct.

[Edward Mayfield]

yes same circuit

[Rich Thomas]

Edward, I'm sorry you are still having problems with your electric and wish I could be of more help  when you traced your lights are the ones that work on the same circuit as the ones that don't.

[Edward Mayfield]

Ok I give up all screws in dist. box are tight / all wires  white black and copper are tightly twisted with tight wire nuts and I replaced the breaker just because nothing else worked 1 hole in wall (yep found hidden junction box) going to an outlet also not working, all show power  according to my volt meter until turned on or something plugged into outlet lights flicker for a few seconds then no power, SOOOOOOOOOO guess I rewire system. never did it but as a former ASE Master Auto tech. can't be any harder than completly rewiring a 42 desoto or a 66 mustang right????? and a lot more room. thought it maybe my shore power cord (yes Navy so shore power) howerver all other elect. systems working just fine (fridge,all other outlets ect.) cross your fingers and wish me luck.LOL

[Edward Mayfield]

Ok I think I got it look for "open" lose or disconnected white wire not green thanks everyone for the help and tips now to find the last hidden junction box.

[John "T" Nordhoff]

  Rich Thomas, thanks, yep to many folks the word "Ground" may or may not mean the Neutral, but to those of us in the trade ITS LIKE YIKES LOL. I often refer to what laymen call the HOT as the Ungrounded Conductor and the Neutral as a Grounded Conductor, which it actually is. Its a conductor WELL DUH and at the main service entrance panel its tied to mother earth ground, i.e. a Grounded Conductor.

 John T