I just had to share this info.

I have a friend who replaced his rooftop a/c unit 3 times in 5 yrs, and as he said, he could have bought another RV with what he spent on replacement a/c units.

I joked with him one day about retrofitting a window a/c unit to a roof mount.

Well, he said we need to work on that idea. So,, with old rooftop a/c removed, we set a $99. wallymart 5,K btu window unit up on top. Then we estimated and guestimated what we would need for duct work. Home depot here we go.

We found some duct work and headed back home.After some crimping and trimming, we had the cold air vents from window a/c going down into the roof hole. After using some plumbers strap, the unit was secured. Time to plug it in and see what happens. The unit came on, and was blowing some nice cool air, just like the old rooftop originally did.The original plastic cover was put on and it looked pretty good. He let it run for about 3 hrs and it cooled off his rig nicely. (he has a 22 ft tioga class C motorhome).

The following day we had to run a C channel from drip tray for the condensation to drain off to the side of the RV. No one would really know its a window a/c up there with original RV a/c cover over it. He finally hard wired the a/c into the existing a/c 110 V wiring. Its been almost a year, and he said its still working like a charm.  I kinda laugh at this idea because it actually worked LONG term. And he doesnt have to worry about having his a/c unit hanging out a side or back window.

I guess we are only limited to our own imagination.

Is this *hill-billy,,Red-neck,or backwoods rigging? I really don't know, but it worked.

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Comment by Lakota Wolf on March 26, 2014 at 8:48am

UPDATE.. Forgot to mention, as a final step in the completion of the install. The knob controls where relocated from the original location on the window unit. The wiring was extended down thru the roof hole down to the control face of the inside cover. If your not very good at electrical, have someone who knows how to do this (for safety reasons). We just cut the wires and used electrical connectors and a longer length of wire to relocate the switches inside for controls.

Comment by Lakota Wolf on February 24, 2014 at 7:48pm

Thats true,, You duct the cold air vents downward into the cabin. Seperate duct work will go to the air vents of the roof cowling, (cover). Flex ducting is good to work with and is lightweight.

Comment by Richard W. Cobbs on February 24, 2014 at 6:16pm

The only problem that I envision with this set-up is the separation of intake air and cooled air.  A good job of ducting would overcome this problem.

Comment by Dale and Lynne Park on February 24, 2014 at 3:56pm

Thanks for this LW!  We have put off dealing with the broken roof A/C as long as we can, we will need to make a decision before this summer rolls around.  We forked out for a new shroud when we first bought the rig but the unit itself is non-working.  We have tossed around the idea of trying just what you and your friend did.  We had all the electrical checked and the wiring is good and will support whatever we are willing to try. Many of the new small trailers come with residential units with a through wall mount so the idea is catching on.  I think you have given us the courage to try it - thanks. 

Comment by Pat Daly on February 19, 2014 at 8:50pm

Great idea and the price is right.    Hmmm, hope it's secured for the highways. but if n LW did it you can bet it is!

 

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