any one know a way to beef up a shagging ceiling?

[Steven Florence]

i been working on my project 78 golden nugget 5th wheel and stopped for the winter. i know i had a shag in celling before but when snow piled up on the top (i have a tarp  up ther) it shagged some more

when i started my project last summer i had taken out the ceiling and insulation as was bad big time . then replaced all the insulation with  foaam pad type instualtion and re paneled the ceiling. aas new to some stuff i didnt take  notice much of the shag. in spring i plan to replacee both rear and front roof vents as onecs now are cracked old. since i notice  more shag with the snow on top i was wondering if there is a way to beef up the area where shags are. like something from wall to wall across ceiling to flaten it out. noticed duing summer water will tend to pool on roof in these low areas.

any suggestions  possible fixes without have to tear the ceiling out again?78%20Camper%20Rebuiild%201.jpg

will try to post a picture of ceiling if i can find one 

[Richard W. Cobbs]

I had a 1971 Mini Winnie that had a 1"x 3" steel support that went across the ceiling from side to side.  Make sure that there is good support at the ends of the support beam.  Try looking for steel in the walls with a good magnet.  Attach a good support bracket at one side then insert the beam in the bracket and jack up the other end, slowly.  Take your time lifting the sag out of your ceiling, at least several days, and if you have time, several weeks!  Once the sag is removed, firmly attach the second support bracket.  Brackets and beam should be trial fitted before actual installation.  You could pre-paint or wrap the beam with shelf paper.  Good luck, let us know how it turns out.

[Steven Florence]

Richard. Did not think at time you replied. Stil waiting for warmer weather before woring on the sag, but a question on my mind. You said use a 1 x 3 steel support across th ceiling how does it work? Do I set the beam on end or flat?like 1in part touch ceiiling or the 3 inch wide part. I gues the 1in so means 3inch is ceiling and down. Know wha I mean? Just want to be sure before I begin wrk on it.

[Steven Florence]

Richard thanks for the fast reply. I was thinkin something like that but of wood. But your idea is stronger dued steel. I will give it a try many thaks

[Chuck]

Howdy. I am an ironworker welder by trade. Almost any steel supply or welding shop can custom order a variety of structural shapes and sizes and materials. I am considering a similiar repair and plan to use a stainless or aluminum channel or c shape aprox. 2 1/2 x1 1/4 thick.  Might be a little pricy but u don't want to do it again. The strongest structural shape is square tube and that is another option depending on what kind of room u have and how it is going to be attatched. 

[Richard W. Cobbs]

On my Winnie, I believe that it was an original piece, installed at the factory.  For a repair, you will be restricted to what you can buy locally.  I would look for some rectangular tubing, at least 1/8" wall thickness, 1" x 3" if you can get it and if it won't stick down so far that you are hitting your head.  You are trying to support the ceiling load, so, the 1" side would contact the ceiling,  using the 3" side to resist the bending force, or load of the ceiling.  I would guess that 2" X 2" square tubing 1/8" wall would also be adequate and probably easier to find locally.  

[Steven Florence]

Thanks for reply I was thinking the 2x2 myself since the roof vent is right in middle of ceiling I was planing 2. 2x2 one in front of vent other in back of same vent. Since my walls seems to be wood framed and rather long windows I have a 7in space above window and ceiling. My plan is to but a2 x 6 or 8in plank in that spot screwed to framing in wall with slots cut to fit the steel into as bracing. Ill try to rember to post it when I get it done. With double 2 x 2s it should give a.good support