need info

[kevin most]

does anybody know if it is possible to paint an old fiberglass motorhome that is dull with no finish on it? i have a 1990 airstream

[Tony durfey]

It most certainly is. They get painted all the time.  If you put "painting" into the search box you will get a TON of info.  I can tell you it's a lot of work, mostly sanding and more sanding and then you get to sand some more.  Painted our Cabana last year.  And have painted many F/G boats.  You might try some very fine rubbing compound or a marine store product.  There are a number of products to restore the shine to "Gel Coat"  We live on a sailboat when not in our Cabana.  And I work on boats for a living.  Hope this helps, Tony, Joy and Cool Paw Luke

[Richard W. Cobbs]

The rubbing compound or a gelcoat restoration is an excellent way to go!  You will spend a lot of money and possibly end up with an inferior outcome.  I had to repair my fiberglass Travel Queen because a tow truck driver didn't know what he was doing.  The repaired area is harder to clean and has discolored in four years.  

[PappyRalph]

Yes you can paint old fiberglass, i painted mine myself about a year ago, the hardest part was getting it ready to paint.

[kevin most]

thanks for all the info i think i'll give it a try

[Martha Sundquist]

When your gelcoat is gone, use Zep high traffic floor finish, it works to restore a gleam on the old camper... it takes around 5 very thin coats. If you paint first, or if there is existing painted trim or decals, you might consider doing them first with a layer or 2 to seal them before you do the whole thing, as the color can bleed a little. We did this with our old '88 Honey...it made her look a lot nicer.

[jeff york]

I could write a book on this subject as I have painted both of my composite racing planes and a composite MH is no different. Since your fiberglass is long ago cured, you are way ahead of attempting to get paint to stick to new fiberglass that is still curing out.

Start by doing any glass repairs. Use a fiberglass impregnated bondo for anything that is a hole or structural and if you can get to the back side of it, use a glass called tiger hair (loose fiber) to patch any large holes. then follow that with a coat of glass impregnated bondo then light bondo. Sand the entire painted area starting with 40 ,60 to 80 grit on repairs. Any non repaired areas I would suggest doing an over all scuffing using as light as 320 grit and then a 400 and then you could even wet sand with 500 or 600. Dont believe anyone who tells you that a super fine finish will not allow a proper bonding of the finish paint. They dont know what they are talking about. After you have scuffed the entire area, then because its fiberglass, make sure you spray an epoxy primer so as to insure bonding of any finish coats above. Then spray the entire area with a good quality Primer Sealer. Then wet sand the entire area again starting with 320 to 400 (depends on how well you laid down the primer sealer) then go to a wet 500 or maybe even a wet 600 grit sandpaper. Then wash the entire rig with a good soap and water. Dry it very well and blow out and lingering water and dry the area again. You might even let it sit in the sun to bake out any water moisture. Now re paper off any areas with fresh tape and paper. This is important to keep out hidden dust and moisture from previously taped off and covered areas. Blow off the entire area with compressed air. Then using a grease and solvent remover made especially for automotive paint use, go over the entire area with a grease remover. Dupont and PPG makes a great product for this. PPG is better but, everything PPG is expensive. After this, you will need to use several tack clothes to go over the areas to be painted to remove dust and such. At this point do not touch the surface with you hands or even rubber gloves as most contain powders that will contaminate your paint. 

You are now ready to lay down the first very light dust coat of paint. I would suggest a single stage paint and probably a enamel. Unless you want to do a lot of wet sanding, do not attempt a two stage paint on such a large area. Pay close attention to tack times and temperatures. Add to tack time if its colder, shorten them if its hotter. Try not to paint if the humidity is high. It will cause fish eye in your paint and other adhesion issues. After your first light coat of paint, i would suggest as substantial heavy coat for your second coat. Be careful, dont lay it so heavy as to cause runs. Caution, it may not run when you first spray it down but, if its cooler when you paint or if you lay it to heavy, it can sag as its drying. I assume you are not going to paint a metallic so I wont bother to go over how to lay down the last coat when doing metallic. Now, lay down a 3rd and final coat of paint. I suggest if you have not got a gun yet, have a separate primer gun with a big tip of 1.7 or bigger. Then use a 1.2 tip for finish paint. I suggest the newest technology in paint guns the LVLP. Dont confuse that with an HVLP. I have HVLP,  and LVLP guns are 10 times better and you can get a nice gun for a hobbie painter for 150.00. Ok, a good gun is about 1000.00. Also, use a compressor capable of 9 CFM at 45 psi. Keep 45 PSI and the gun and let the gun do all the pressure cut down. Hope this helps

[Rich Thomas]

If its not to bad just dull with miner scratches you may get by with just shooting a clear coat on it. You would still need to clean it well as prier  stated. maybe run it by a paint shop and see if that is possible.