Need some advice about how to handle my LP gas tank.

[Gil Hutcheson]

My lovely wife and I are the proud owners of a 1976 Superior Motorhome. When we got it we fixed most of the things which no longer functioned. One of the remaining problems is that some of the LP gas vendors refuse to fill our onboard tank unless we get it certified. I know this regulation doesn't apply to ASME tanks, but I suspect the fact that the tank is treated with a rust inhibitor makes it appear rusted. 

I have tried to find help locally from the LP gas vendors, but they don't seem interested in helping me or taking my money. 

So here are some questions I would like answered by anyone who is knowledgeable about this technology.

1. Can I replace the fill valve with a standard valve with includes the new over flow protection valve?

2. Can I replace the gauge on the tank with complete new assembly and 90 ohm sending unit.

3. Can I replace the valve that controls the supply of gas to the appliances in the RV with a new one. The current one tends to leak around the valve stem.

4. If none of the above are possible, can I just buy a new tank with the correct configuration and gauge then install it myself? I have a lot of experience working with plumbing and brass compression fittings.

Thanks in advance,

Gil Hutcheson

[david craft]

get the model number of the tank and contact the manufacturer.
1. the new valve will work if the fill location is at 80% tank volumn location
2. check with MFG
3. yes but use an ASME service valve with large pressure relief
4. but the small ones are 300 bucks...be prepared to shell out.

[Gil Hutcheson]

The tanks I have been looking at are around $600 bucks. At this point, I will use an extend-a-stay this summer when I run out of gas, but I don't like the idea of riding around with an LP tank inside the cabin of the RV.

Thanks for the info. Looks like I will have to take a wire brush to the rust-proofing on the tank label.

[david craft]

i made copies of the statute for people to take around for the vendors that didnot know the law.

[david craft]

just open that service valve all the way for the interim till you get it replaced. soap spray test it but that should solve the intermittant leak problem

[Gil Hutcheson]

Well, the service valve is only leaking a small amount while you open or close it. Once it is opened the packing appears to be stopping the leak, when it is closed the valve seems to keep it from leaking. I just went out and took a look at the tank and the service valve is on the bottom of the tank so it looks like a no go for an OPD valve. The tank itself is outside the RV. You have to reach through the folding stairs to get to it.

[david craft]

The OPD should be the fill valve not the service valve. The fill valve should be at 80% volumn for the new style to work. The service valve may have a "J" tube so as to draw vapor from the top of the tank...

[Gil Hutcheson]

I apologize, David, I had the terminology wrong. The fill valve (with the yellow plastic cap?} enters the tank at the bottom and is pointing downward at a slight angle. There is also an appproximately 1/2 inch valve that looks like it may be meant to be lossened to indicate when the tank is to the correct fill level. 

I think I will just have to save my money  and put a new tank in place next winter. From comparing the dimensions to tanks I have seen for sale I think the current tank is about 11+  gallons capacity.

Thanks again for your help,

Gil

[david craft]

Havent seen too many enter at the bottom. OPDs are not required by law. Law makers were after the BBQ market with their hugh flame a short distance away. I had stickers which said "not an OPD valve" that are good to have. But you have to watch whoever fills the tank. I believe thats covered in the LP systems blog...;)