Electrical?????

[Polly Ward]

 

Hello Everyone,

 

I am new to the site. I'm trying to find some info on wireing up my 1964 Aloha Travel Trailer.

 

I'm not sure if I should do a 50 amp 30 amp or 20 amp outside plug.  I only have 4 outlets and don't plan on running a lot of power through the trailer.

 

And where do I buy and exterior mounting plug ????

 

I am so confused!!!

 

Trying to get the trailer done buy the weekend. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!

 

Thanks

 

Polly

[John "T" Nordhoff]

I see no need for 50 amps, thats more for huge RV's that need two air conditioners. Since 30 amps is more an RV standard versus 20, Id rig a 30 amp (3 conductor 10 Gauge wire) power cord with the standard 30 AMP RV male plug end. If you were somewhere that ONLY had a 20 amp outlet (rare unless a very old RV park) you could always use a 20/30 adapter. Camping World or about any decent RV dealership will have the plugs and cords etc.

John T in Indiana

[John "T" Nordhoff]

I see no need for 50 amps, thats more for huge RV's that need two air conditioners. Since 30 amps is more an RV standard versus 20, Id rig a 30 amp (3 conductor 10 Gauge wire) power cord with the standard 30 AMP RV male plug end. If you were somewhere that ONLY had a 20 amp outlet (rare unless a very old RV park) you could always use a 20/30 adapter. Camping World or about any decent RV dealership will have the plugs and cords etc.

John T in Indiana

[Polly Ward]

Great Thanks very much,
Today will be the day to see if I can get it all hooked up.
Thanks again!

Polly

[william d babb]

Polly A 20 amp service should be all you need on that size camper just make sure you have a breaker box with 15 amp breakers to protect the camper the main feeder will be the 20 amp this mean # 12 wire from outside plug to breaker box. you can now run # 14 wire to devices off of the 15 amp breakers. Make sure you keep ground, neutral, and hot paired up together so the unit will work at r-v parks withe gfic plug in

[Polly Ward]

I did a 20 amp system with a tandem 20 amp breaker, my only problem now is how the heck to secure the 20 amp plug I got from home depot because it is just free floating. I also ran romex 12 gage wire through the walls, that wire is pretty thick and wireing my gfci outlets has been a nightmare because they don't fit in the box properly. I appreciate all of the help. I can pay back with a zuchinin bread recipe if anyone is interested. I have a good grasp of the technical part of the system, now its trying to make my work neat.
Thanks!

[John "T" Nordhoff]

Polly, In residential applications I often specified use of an extra deep outlet box for GFCI use as it provided the extra room. On GFCI branch circuits one only needs a GFCI (if so equipped) at the FIRST outlet and then use regular outlets (less cumbersome and cheaper) downstream as they are also GFCI protected (via the first GFCI). Since you already have 12 gauge wire, may as well go ahead and protect the branch circuit feeders with a 20 amp circuit breaker.

I dont understand your question "secure the 20 amp plug" often one would run 3 #12 gauge conductor flex cord hard wired to a junction box in the RV (then to your panel) and then say 25 or so feet later install the male plug on the end. You pull up and unravel n remove the long cord and plug it into the RV parks 120 VAC Power. An alternative is use of a bulkhead twist lock male at the RV and a cord with the matching female (hooks to RV) on one end and a standard 20 amp plug on the other to plug into shore power. They make and some RV's use that bulkhead arrangement where you open a lil door on the RV (often used on boats actualy) and theres a twist lock and you carry the seperate independant cord that twist locks/connects to the RV and the other cord end has the standard male plug. However the majority of small RV's have a hard wired cord (to junction box inside RV) you drag out and hook to the RV Park power outlet.

DO NOT GET YER WIRES CROSSED

1 White Neutral (a grounDED conductor)
1 Black Hot Wire
1 Green safety equipment groundING conductor THATS THE MOST IMPORTANT FOR SAFETYS SAKE YA KNOW

John T Long retired Electrical Engineer