International Harvester Chassis Rv's

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International Harvester Chassis Rv's

This is a group for any and all RV's that are on International Harvester chassis. Both the 1300 and 1500 series chassis.

Location: Stockton, IL.
Members: 8
Latest Activity: Oct 8

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Comment by Peter Solin on October 8, 2017 at 9:00am

Looking for any information on a North American All Seasons RV built in Sioux City, Iowa, on a 1970 International frame. Thanks for your help.

Comment by mike hutchison on February 28, 2017 at 9:07pm

sorry I put 1410 should be 1310    mikeh

Comment by mike hutchison on February 28, 2017 at 9:05pm

hey kirk;  my motorhome saya it a 1410 mhc on the tag and it got 5 lug buds on it , and the 16in wheels I put on are ford and dodge 1t tubeless.      yes ihc motorhomes were built at the then discontinued metro plant in Chicago.  also you may have solved a long standing problem about some of couch wiring and converter.    thanks you've helped a bunch.    mikeh

Comment by Kirk Hoffman on February 19, 2017 at 6:00am

Hi Mike, Did IHC actually build the bodies  for their RV's? Were they based on the IH Metro vans? I'd like to know more about them.

    I don't know about your system, but both of mine have converters to change 120 to 12V power. All my interior lighting is 12V. The outlets and AC are wired for 120V. I too replaced my old gad refrigerator with a Walmart version. I had to install a new outlet for it in the enclosure. I just connected it to an existing outlet and ran it into the compartment. I believe any available converter would work for you. Just replace the old one and you should be good to go.        Kirk

Comment by mike hutchison on February 18, 2017 at 10:13pm

hi all;  ive been on here since oct. of last year.  working on a 74 I h c , and yes I H C built motorhomes for 1 year.  ive been through brakes ,wheel bearings ,replaced wheels to tubeless, repaired and replaced dash wiring and gauges, replaced fuse panel. put in new circuit breaker box because fridge was bad (replaced with Wal-Mart 120v unit and microwave).  but now my question to anyone who knows or understands part of the coach wiring is 120v and part is 12v.  this unit has a phillips converter pt# pc301-m-2, 30 amp ,which is no longer available.  it was struck by lightning, as was my house last year.  can someone explain wiring  and converters to me?  I understand most of it but would like to talk to some body who knows much more than me.  buy for now bless you all and be safe;  mi

Comment by Peter Woods on December 4, 2016 at 3:57pm

Hello, I have a 1972 Superior 2200 on the 1300 MHC chassis. 8 lug axles. It has a 392 and 727 trans, with a gearvendors under/overdrive. Runs on both gas and propane. Have added both front and rear stabilizer bars. We made a set of 19.5" rims for truck radials, using the 8 lug centers. Next i'd like to swap out the front beam axle for a disc brake axle. any thoughts on a donor axle would really be a help. will get some pics onto site soon. I'm down here in central Mexico, and have been up to the Salt Flats from here. about 5,000 mls. Thanks, and good wishes! Peter

Comment by Kirk Hoffman on July 2, 2016 at 6:35am

Hi Will,

     Just for grins last night I did an online search for the Uteliner RV.  I found a couple interesting links. There is a '73 listed for sale on a Hot Rod page that has a bunch of pictures. I don't know how to get that link to put it on a message to you though! Kind of computer illiterate here!.  My email address is kchmn61085 at yahoo. so I'll be looking for your pictures, Can't wait to see them. 

     Depending on your brake system, bleeding out any air that gets in there could be a problem. Mine had 2 hydrovacs on it and  they make things interesting. It's hard to get to the bleeders on them. I have a power bleeder, so that helps a bunch. I don't know if the 1300 chassis has the hydrovacs.  I installed a new master cylinder and rebuilt both hydrovacs on mine. along with the front brake hoses. The biggest thing is to get all the old contaminated fluid out of the wheel cylinders. If you can afford it I recommend  silicone brake fluid. If you go that route you'll need to do a complete system flush to get the old fluid out. The Silicone fluid will not attract moisture like the usual stuff does.

    Sounds like you have plenty of Black and Gray water storage.  Mine only has one tank probably about 30 gallons, and I need to do some changing on that system. I need to figure a way to put on a Gray water tank and get it plumbed into my system.

    How is your roof and ceiling made? If it has wood framing it might not be too hard to replace the wood. Mine had a fiberglass roof cap with wood embedded into the structure, so it's almost impossible to replace any bad wood. For the one bad vent framing in mine I found some woodworking stuff that you mix up and pour into the wood. it's supposed to absorb into the wood and then set up, thereby making the wood usable again. I guess it works OK, I got the idea from a guy at the Illinois Railroad Museum, that's what they use on some of the old rail cars they restore. I don't remember the name of it though. I think I got mine from Woodworkers Supply. It's been a long time!

   Years ago I was a certified VW mechanic, I worked at a local dealership for a few months. We had a Karman Ghia that we used for chasing parts. It had a dual turboed EMPI engine in it. The boss always told us that if we ran into any of those 427 Coervettes on the way, to show them what a real car could do! That beast was pushing over 400 HP supposedly, and would pull wheelies in all 4 gears. It was a fun ride! I never fouhd the legendary Vette, but did impress the heck out  of a few unsuspecting Chevy drivers!

   I always thought a roof full of Solar panels would be a good way to go. You would get power and possibly even a reduction in inside temperature because the panels might soak up the heat of the sun too. You would need a battery bank and inverter too.

    I'll be watching my mail for your pictures. Take care and enjpy working on your beast!       Sincerely, Kirk

 

Comment by Will Richards on July 2, 2016 at 12:57am

I have a "special" switch on my dash that runs an always on electric fuel pump. ill have to look close at the block to see if the mechanical one is still there. Thank you for the advice on the oil. I will also look in to the how to of the tranny.  Im all MGs and VW. This is my first truck.
When it comes to brakes i was thinking just replacing the brake hoses due to unknown age. Any reason that would not bode well?
i was climbing around today underneath. It looked like i had two black water tanks in line both about 30 gallons. Thats a rough guess I still need to figure out how to utilize that system. Im not sure how it works.we are in the middle of finding the extent of the water damage and replacing bad wood. Mostly limited to the underlay of the ceiling and one vents rotter 1x3 frame it screwed to. Then a new floor and a deep clean and new paint. PM me your email and ill send you a few pictures.
My wife will be starting school in Oregon this sept so we will be long time camping. I would like to get a good amount of solar on my huge roof but in time, Coupled with those big water tanks ill be in no rush to leave anywhere

Comment by Kirk Hoffman on June 30, 2016 at 4:50pm

Hi Will,

      As long as the chassis is still all original it's pretty easy to tell. The 1300 chassis has 8 lug rims, the 1500 series has 5 lugs on an 8 inch bolt circle. They are the old Budd style with the 1 1/2 inch lug nuts, and on the rear there is a 13/16 square end on the inner nut to hold it while you remove the outer nut. Easy if you have the right tool, but sometimes if you try to take off the outer nut it will bring the inner one with it. I have wheels of 17 inch,19.5 inch, and 20 inch, so I can use a bunch of different tires.

    If the carb is full of fuel when you try to start it, they will usually start right up. sometimes after sitting a long time the carb will be dry, then it takes a while to get gas up to it. I have an electric pump to switch on momentarily to prime the carb, then it is ready to run.  Some of them can be pretty cold blooded and won't want to stay running until they get warmed up. I have a hand choke on mine and have to keep it about halfway out till it warms up.

    I would change the oil in the engine before starting it for the first time in case there is any condensation in there. Then change it again after it has run a few hours. The transmission should be OK for the initial start up, but I would plan on changing it before driving very far. It would also be a good idea to pump a bunch of new brake fluid through the system in case there is moisture in the old stuff.

     WOW! with that much fresh water how big are your black and gray tanks? You should be able to park of grid for a long time! I only have about 25 gallons of fresh water, but usually when I am using the RV I am near a water source.

   Do you live in Oregon,or just camping there?  I would like to see some pictures of your rig. Can you post some here?

    Well, good luck with your IH and if you need any advice or part numbers or anything I can help with I'll be glad to assist! Anything to keep these old girls going!      Kirk

Comment by Will Richards on June 30, 2016 at 10:51am

P.S. No one knows anything when it comes to this uteliner. Very little info on the internets. From what I could find a guy in the 70s wanted a heavy duty rv. Made a bigger headroom bed above the cab large water tanks (I have two fifty gallon fresh water tanks.) My understanding is all water line are sloped in a way to not hold water to stop pipe freeze. Things like that. At one point the outliner was the official utah utes wrestling athletes travel rig. Thats about all I know

 

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