1973 Invader Restoration...questions???

[John D]

Hey All

I just bought a 1973 Invader 19 foot trailer. My wife and I plan on restoring it on the inside, since there is water damage. We feel comfortable with the inside, but can not find any information on them. I took some pictures, and posted the link to the album below.

I do have exterior questions. I am sure other ones will come up over time, but in the mean time...

What is the roof made of? Feels like a convertible, but seems to be in strips. Is it easier to repair (and how) or replace.

Is the underside some sort of foil? I have not pulled the floor yet, but cant tell and was wondering if other then the frame it needs to be sealed?

How much does it weigh?

I know the axels where flipped...from what I read it looks like it was done right. Where can i get more information on them?

I plan on updating the electrical, and was going to add a breakaway brake. I noticed there is wires going to them, but not sure what is actually in them.

where should I attach tow chains to?

Should the hubs/drums be left alone or replaced with modern ones? what electric brakes fit into it?

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10100397724962919.1073741...

thanks

John

[John D]

sounds good. i have done some looking around and most of it just keeps leading to more questions. I am having a hard time finding info on the Invader though. I have only been able to find pics from one other member. 

i feel pretty comfortable with the interior... its the axels, brakes and tires i will have to do more digging on

[Lakota Wolf]

To address a couple of your inquiries,, the wires to your wheels are for the electric brakes, double axle trailers have electric brakes, Thats the red wires going across the axle. They are just 12 volt magnets on the drum assembly.

Second,, the roof you possibly have is thin sheet metal in sections with a thin membrane of roofcoat applied, hence feeling like a convertable. Safety chains are usually mounted just behind the hitch coupler and you always criss cross the chains when attaching to tow vehicle. But some members have invader models or simliar in here, just search around and use search button to zero the search down..

[John D]

ok... so i figured thats what they were for. Is there a way to tell if the brakes actually work? how would i go about replacing/servicing them. And what about hubs/drums? Axel/spindles and greasing? I am a little worried since it seems like it still has the original 9.044 inch steel wheels and I am not sure if that is good or bad.

As for the roof, i ripped up a seam and it looks like strips about 2 feet wide stapled to wood. Would i be able to replace the wood, coat/seal the joints and put down some sort of EPDM roof coating?

what is similar to an invader? i am new to RVing

[Lakota Wolf]

Gonna add,,, those Black brackets on each side of the tongue behind the coupler are for Weight distribution bars, and anti sway bars.,,, I did notice you will need to put some type of sealer around drain pipe,, at least some steel wool or even expanded foam,,, thats a place for critters to get in and make a condo out of your trailer. Thats just an F.Y.I.

[John D]

i have some weight distribution parts, but am not sure what i am looking at. I will take a picture and post.

as for the critters... it is to late... they have invaded the invader.... but we have taken care of that... now its cleanup time.

[Lakota Wolf]

You can replace the damaged or rotted wood and replace with a newer roof of materials of your choice,, (Just No Shingles). and make sure its weather/waterproof. 

As far as testing the brakes,, You can use a simple 12v battery or even a 12 v. battery charger and touch the contacts to the 2 wires coming out of the hub assemble and listen for the click of the magnets expanding the brake shoes.

You can pull the wheels off and hubs and check your bearings for sufficient grease. And can also check for Scaring, a hot burn spot on the spindle where the bearings ride.

There ae several options as far as hub assemblies, 4 bolt,,5 bolt etc,,  14 inch wheels,, 15 inch wheels etc.

If your not sure about bearing size,, take a used one from your trailer to reputable RV parts place and they can match what you have.

[John D]

Lakota... is it more time/energy efficient to replace the roof or repair the current one?

If i was to replace it, I would want to go with a material that is both cost effective and will last a long time, yearly maintance, etc is fine with me. Anything fall into this category?

thanks for the tips on the axels... i will try that one of these days when it warms up a tad outside.

[Lakota Wolf]

If the roof has several areas that are pretty much wasted and would be costly to repair in the long run, I myself would go with a complete re-roof. That way you can replace cross members and possibly any support down studs that may have been damaged from water. depending on the space between cross beams across roof, You can get away with good grade plywood. You wont need to go 1 inch or anything, thats just to heavy. Take in concideration if you will be walking or storing heavy items up on the roof when deciding how thick of plywood you would need. After you have chosen the size plywood you need, make sure you weather seal it, BOTH sides before installing it. Once you install it, a good roof coat membrane with also weatherproof it, Make sure to seal real good along any and all seams, including along the sides. It may seem like a HUGE project, but put it all in perspective and do a section at a time and it will go smoother and not seem so overwhelming. There are a couple articles in the forums with a few photos on a re-roof project. 

Hope this helps a little for you. And if I can help you in any way, Let me know.

[John D]

i have been meaning to try out the brakes and do some maintenance on the axels, but the weather and mud is just not permitting....

[John D]

So I have finally torn into the TT this Saturday. I do not have pictures, but I will try to get some next time I get suited up to go in the thing. Lots of mold and fungus...rotting wood.

I will be gutting the whole thing, so far nothing has been salvageable!!!! GRRR However, it is an metal roof, and the spacing between the 1x1 beams is so big that it has been sagging under the weight of the snow pulling the seams apart. I plan on pulling the entire interior down, getting plywood up against the metal, sealing the roof with eternabond and then an elestamoric coating.  A 2x4 or 2x2 frame to hold up the plywood. I was wondering how the ceiling is usually supported? Will i need to rebuild the wall framing first and then stack the wood frame on top? (I am trying not to pull up the metal roof so I am guessing put the ceiling framing in, shim/shore it up, and then build the wall frame out).

Possible?