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Hi Frances -
When we full-timed in Colorado it was with a Class A, so take any recommendations I have with a grain of salt. The first two thoughts that came to mind for me was that first each rig is going to have its weak spots and you almost just have to experience it. In ours, we were able to run small electric heaters in the bays to keep the plumbing warm - we put in remote control temp sensors so I could always keep an eye on them, and got heaters with auto shutoffs. I think one place that was too small to do that safely we put in a safety light and did similar with the remote thermostat. It often doesn't take much. With the Class C we just bought no chance of that. There are no 'bays'. That's where the skirting that's been recommended is going to come in to help keep anything exposed on the underside warm. Inside, you might have to keep cabinet doors open to help keep pipes warm when the temperatures drop.
Our biggest lesson was (doh) do not turn off the flame to the water heater unless you drain it. I did it once not realizing how little it would take to freeze solid and there is not room for expansion in those tanks. Did it again when we stored it for the winter after moving out and I "thought he drained it" and he "thought I drained it". That time we couldn't get it welded fixed, had to replace it.
I've found lots of YouTube videos on how to cheaply "winterize" your RV when living in it the winter - lots of good tips. I know we burned a lot of propane keeping ours warm but we had a couple of brutal winters.
Good luck with your decision!
And I wasn't trying to push you off to YouTube - I think it's fine for general ideas, but I come here for the nitty gritty :-) This is the one I was thinking of: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZVP4lYRF2t4 as it's more about insulating the interior cheaply. And she has an older Class C. Another thought came to me - the first time our pipes froze I freaked out, sure we would have a leak, but as the day warmed up they thawed and we didn't end up with anything cracked. So much of this learning by doing. This time I have the luxury of parking our rig and testing her out little by little - but when we did this before we were so new it was embarrassing. Lots of great stories and adventures out of it. Sounds like you are being cautious and thoughtful which is perfect, but no matter what, you can't anticipate everything, and there are always going to be expenses so just be prepared mentally and take them in stride. The BF got Juno home from across country after buying her and I came to realize she had no in cab a/c...it was sort of a what the ??? moment. Truthfully wouldn't have bought her if I'd known that, but now, kind of glad I didn't. Very very pleased with our rig. It's just going to create different decisions - won't be traveling through Texas in August for example :-) I am looking forward to your progress, hope you continue to post! Pics, too!
Hey Dawn
I watched that video it was great good information. The RV that I bought needs a compressor to run the AC it also has a spot for a roof AC/heater. Which I am planning to buy in the future. I already have one portable electric heater that will come in handy for now I am thinking it will heat the whole RV with no problems.
I am Nervous about the little things I am going to find but I am ready to learn as much as I can. I know there wont be any across country trips anytime soon, but hopefully a few around NYS.
My truck chassis simply doesn't have an AC - the vents in the dash are fake - LOL. Hard to think back in the mid-80s that was even an option not to have one, but then I'm a Texas girl :-)
NYS - have you been to Ithaca? I have a friend I met full-timing that ended up landed like me, but she wants to retire there and build a tiny home. She is in love with it there. Once we get Juno fixed up I plan on a trip in that direction. Right now she's in Maryland.
Our Bounder was 371/2 foot and we pretty much used two heaters other than the bays - one in the front and then one in the back in the bedroom area. So you probably have that right. Sometimes you get free electric and then all you want to use is that, and then sometimes they charge you (ie month stays) so then you want to try to rely on propane/12v. I'd hoped to follow that rule this time around - be able to go either way but my biggest struggle is there is not having extra room for the additional things. I can vouch for the ease of the Mr. Heater series but throwing away those propane bottles seems excessive. I'd like to ultimately have mine wired into the onboard but not quite sure where it would set (right now we put it up on the table).
Basically ours isn't big enough to change your mind - LOL.
Smaller trips will be a great way to try her out - and your neighbors at RV parks are often quite willing to help. I have never felt the sense of community I found as I did when we were full-timing. I don't know what it is, but in my own neighborhood I don't know anyone, everyone keeps to themselves but in an RV setting (at least the private campgrounds - not always so much at the state parks) there seems to be more willingness to know your neighbor and talk about rigs, give advice. In the state parks, more often you'll find it during the week when the weekend warriors have come and gone.
Again, more 'free' advice :-) I am so jonesing to be back on the road. This fall, though. I'm 2/3 of the way there. Took me two years to find the RV I wanted so now it's just matter of getting her road worthy.
My RV has factory AC installed by the dealer. I think back in the day that was common practice. I was told once that manufacturer's bought the chassis vehicles at the end of the year for as little a price as possible ie no AC. In my paperwork I have a template for cutting the dash holes. Mine does not work, for some odd reason the PO pulled the condenser and a few other odds and ends. At present I have an AC compressor and little else. I am contemplating removing that and cleaning up my engine bay, those things weigh quite a bit. My thought is replacing my AC with a Vintage Air System. At present I am fine with my arm-strong unit. ( crank window down push out the wing glass)
Haha - I will be using the "arm-strong unit". I looked into (briefly) what it might cost to put something in and it looked prohibitively expensive. Like in the 2K range (with installation). Sadly I don't even get heat though through the vents - (just the dash and two little holes under the dash). No wonder the BF was miserable driving her across country - between that and the door seal on that side with some gaps...and on the coldest week of the year I think...!!! He was a trooper.
There is a company called Steel Rubber Products that sells new rubber seals for the vintage automotive consumer. Also this company LMC Truck has after market parts for most brands. You can visit their web site and request a free catalog. I've used them before and their quality is excellent. http://www.lmctruck.com/dodge/
You'll get lots of empathy here - I suspect most people that fulltime have a bit of an independent streak. They like their neighbors, but not too close. I always thought how great if I don't like my neighbors, I move. Part of my frustration now (other than I was born a gypsy) is similar and even though we have a house.
Okay, caulking the shower. In the RV world, to those who know, silicone is a no-no on the exterior. I'm sure someone else will weigh in, but I assume it's going to be the same on the interior? My understanding is it won't stand up to the movement and is a bear to get off (I'm girding up for my big project to clean it off my back corner trim). Getting a lot of thumbs up for polyurethane caulk for white and if you want clear I've almost settled on a product called Lexall I found at my local hardware store (Ace) and can get in smaller tubes for smaller projects (rather than requiring a caulk gun). Both options should be paintable if needed. Both should give you a watertight seal that will hold up to the vibration. Don't rush out and buy it though until someone else suggests something, remember I'm a newbie with you.
Do post pics! I find they really help the folks here give me better advice and besides we are all voyeurs. We love to see what everyone else is doing and has to tackle.
My rig is all good except for some wavy wood interior just at the front over the cab. Didn't see it in the pics and the BF didn't catch it. I've decided since otherwise it's hard (not mushy), doesn't finish at a seam, and everything else looks good throughout and exterior, I'm going to seal the roof tight to ensure there's no additional damage and let it go a season. I need more experience before I tackle it (and anything I find underneath). Fortunately it came from Colorado which is very low humidity and hoping that will be on my side. I know there is a product that can be squirted into places that may have started to rot but not gone completely that will help tighten things up. Haven't tried it myself though and I think it would work best around corners of an otherwise solid piece of wood. Let me know if you need the name and I'll look it up.
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