Any opinions on best way to deal with corner trim - both temporary and permanent?

[Dawn Michelle]

Once Juno showed up, in addition to some spots on the roof, and potentially the need to reseal the overcab window, my biggest concern was the back corner trim.  For now I've tarped her and delayed getting her to the mechanic for much needed carb work because we can't seem to catch a dry and warm week. Researching this and wondered if anyone cared to share their experience?

I thought maybe I could try a temporary fix just to get her to mechanics, but not sure in the end I'm not creating more work for myself.  Tape was suggested, but the gorilla tape (clear) didn't want to stick.  One piece of advice I got was to utilize water based latex sealant/caulk - to just get it through so I can let it be untarped at mechanics.  Not sure....

Then, moving on to a permanent solution - the first videos that come up are utilizing (and promoting) a product called seal-tite - it seems like a good idea (assuming you can find your screw holes again) and not terribly expensive.  But, others in forums seem to suggest the old fashioned way, like windows, just using butyl tape and some sort of caulking to protect that.

If the latter what sort of caulking?  Has anyone used the seal-tite and do they like it?  Any concerns?  And, do I just wait for warmer drier weather to fix it before getting to mechanic?  Or is there something I could do that would give me some peace of mind so I could go on and get the mechanical work done?

[Lakota Wolf]

The BLACK gorilla tape is the best,,  And bathtub white caulk is a decent temp fix,,, Just dont leave it on there as a permanent fix,, Yes Ive used water based caulk to seal a hole till I got the materials to correctly repair it,,, it peals off rather easily,,,

[Rich Thomas]

Greetings Dawn, I would go to the hardware store and pic up a caulking gun and a couple tubes of Dap latex bathtub caulk, get one of those little caulk removing tools or a plastic putty knife as well. Follow these instructions. Take the plastic putty knife or caulking tool and run it down along the side of the metal trim removing 1/8th" to 1/4" of the old butyl tape from under the trim and all of it from the exposed surface, do this on both sides. Follow up by cleaning the siding along the area you just prepped and then caulk down both sides with the Dap or other soft latex caulk. This will get you through the winter and probably most of the summer. If a more permanent fix is desired substitute a good quality product like Dicor or what I prefer Sickaflex products. Sorry not sure of the spelling. The little caulk removal tool is plastic as well and, has a little hook built into it that makes it easy to pull it along and under the edge of the aluminum trim and pull out that old moldy Butyl Tape. Use the smallest hole size in the tubes nozzle you can, and aim it into the little gap you created with the tool. I used this method on the Palace with very good results and I think it should work well for you too. You can follow up with one of those caulk edging tools to make that perfect bead but if it's temporary why bother. hey! good luck with your project I hope this will help you out a bit.