...Well, I have to say I'm feeling a little discouraged. Our shakedown trip went wonderfully, and I really couldn't believe that after all my plumbing work there were no leaks. Everything worked, the drive over the mountain went well, we had a lovely time at an underrated campground....that is until it was time to come home.
The first issue occurred when I was starting to pack up outside. This is the first time we used the tanks as this campground was electric/water only. I don't have any sort of sensors but I know from living in the Bounder you can tell - black tanks sound different when they are full and they flush, and usually gray backs up in the lowest point and you can smell it (in ours it was the shower pan).
Mom finished a last bit of dishes (we tried to conserve with water knowing I have small tanks) and all of a sudden I hear water just gushing down onto the ground. All dry under the cabinet, but closer inspection under the carriage with a flashlight showed it just gushing out on all sides of the tank where it is (glued?) up to the bottom of the under carriage.
So, obviously we had filled it to capacity and rather than backing up, it was pushing out of ... a gasket? a cracked seal?
At the same time I noticed the definite odor of the black tank in the bay. I'd noticed this before when I got it but drop ins solved the issue so didn't pursue. But I'm wondering if black might have same issue - some sort of lost seal where the bottom of the tank meets the top, but fortunately didn't get full. So we only polluted with our gray.
The second issue was the awning - we had the awning down the whole time (slanted somewhat as advised) - so Tues night, Wednesday and Thursday and then took it back up this morning. We almost couldn't get it closed. It's like the rails have shifted and the inner rails almost didn't want to close back in.
Then, I decided to check tire pressure - I didn't check on way out as they were supposed to have been inflated at the last mechanics (no). Way under inflated per the first mechanic. Tried to inflate them myself but couldn't manage to get the heads on the outer duallies. Found a tire place and lovely guys at Tire Barn fixed me up - 65 on my rear duallies and 70 on the front.
Yay, we can breathe, um, no.
No, on the way back across the mountain the engine started hesitating and stumbling. I almost didn't make it over the last hill despite taking it down to second - it's not transmission. I don't know, maybe something as simple as a vacuum hose coming off. But it got worse and worse, doing it taking off from stoplights and I was a hot mess on the last hill up our road.
The RV fixit place is willing to move heaven and earth to get me in on Monday to look at my tanks but now I have to probably get it to mechanic. UNLESS I pop the hood this weekend and just happen to see some hose obviously flopping around!!! LOL.
This did not really help my confidence to get on the road to Denver. I'm really questioning myself...!!!!! Getting on the road with an older vehicle despite four mechanics now telling me how clean and great the engine is - ROFLOL. It was the sheer responsibility of having my mom, my dog and an unhappy cat underway that has me really thinking I'm crazy.
Any encouragement welcomed. It doesn't sound as bad as Russ's shakedown at least!
Saying that the gasket would be loose or not properly seated?
Dry rot , cracked or missing?? Demise maybe too scary. You should be able to find the problem through elimination and not ever leave the driveway. I have spent a lot of time under the hood of these old critters. I am 65 now and been hot rodding since I was 15 or so. What engine is it and year if you could!If all the pollution stuff is gone than all the vacuum taps need to be checked for cracked CaPs ( dry rotted rubber) . Be glad to help if you are willing to get a little dirty. Nothing too hard just a lot of checking Also , how many miles , is it a carter afb carburetor or a holley. As much info as you can , email if you want to firstname.lastname@example.org
Hi Robert -
Well it has a new carb - replaced an edelbrock with another (now under warranty). I do not have the model # but can get that.
If I was still in Asheville I'd consider taking you up on your offer (hard to find people these days that know carbs) - fortunately (or unfortunately) I DID make it out the driveway and to Denver. It's an 84 Dodge 360 5.9L V8 - 1 ton chassis. I'm learning a lot with all these "fixes" at least.
I came down with the flu so extending my stay here a few days - then heading south later this weekend. I did not leave my pjs today so didn't try starting and listening for the electric fuel pump. Tomorrow...have to as I need to get water and dump.
My plan is to just drive a few hours each day in the morning before it gets warm and avoid as many vertical climbs as I can. I was going to test it before I left Denver but now that I'm sick - well, either the fan clutch and new rotor fixes the problem or doesn't. Next.
My biggest concern at this point is trying not to damage the new mechanical fuel pump - if the electric one isn't working there isn't much I can do though til I get to my next long term stopping place, but it would be good to know if it was working. Who knows. Maybe I'll get lucky. I made it half way across the country with it it in the off position (but maybe what damaged the mechanical pump in the first place).
According to a couple of the mechanics now the EGR has been removed...my demise?? Oh no! LOL
I have no idea if you actually have an electric fuel pump back near the tank or not. Back in the day I ran several of the 360 Dodges and if I had fuel delivery or vapor lock problems I installed an inline elec fuel pump back by the tank HOWEVER always removed and put a cover plate over the old engines mechanical pump for safety because if the diaphragm sprung a leak the elec pump would fill the crankcase with gas, but I know some people still left BOTH pumps working NOT A GOOD IDEA. I wold NOT use both and prob remove the old and block off the hole and use a new good quality rear elec pump plus install a safety tumbler crash switch on the circuit so in a crash the elec pu'mp stops. An elec pump is easy to find and see/hear/feel if its working or not when key is on and a switch is on
YOU JUST GOTTA FIND OUT IF IT HAS AN ELEC PUMP AND IF ITS WORKING
Hi John - definitely, I will tomorrow. This flu has me miserable (lately I feel like that saying - if I didn't have bad luck I'd have no luck at all!). Today there was ice and snow to melt off - just couldn't face leaving my warm cave to face it! My water tank is empty and I need to dump so I will have to start her up.
I got the same advice from my dad about removing it - not fun if the original owner was right and it is in the fuel tank. But there's been several owners since and, as she pointed out when she saw the before pics I sent, the interior had been changed quite a bit already and from talking to I know the carb had been replaced - so who knows what might have been changed with that pump.
I'll chime back in here tomorrow what I find! No use supposing until I know that.
Mornin Dawn, a few more thoughts:
1 I just Do NOT think its a carb problem with that new carb
2) Ifffffffffffffff there's a NON WORKING electric pump in line series with your mechanical pump, such could possibly be a restriction and resistance to free flow making it hard on the mechanical pump causing it to over work. That's ALL suction and any restriction or resistance in the system (like a clogged filter or non working elec pump) is NOT good and could cause fuel delivery problems
3) Theres a HUGE difference in an external elec pump and an in tank. NO older RV's I owned had an in tank elec pump. An in tank pump would be RARE as many of those old RV's didn't use in tank pumps and if an elec pump was needed they DID NOT usually change out to a modern tank designed and equipped with an in tank pump, they simply added an external pump.
4) While I stated when I added an external pump I removed and blocked off the hole where the old mechanical pump was THERES AN EASIER WAY just remove the lines in and out of the old pump and re plumb and re route from the new elec pump to the carb, maybe keep an inline filter between there and the carb. When I added a new elec pump I often placed a big capacity easy free flow inline filter on the SUCTION side of the pump between it and the tank...
Not being there I can only guess, but my thoughts are you need a good working elec pump back near the tank,,,,,,,,,,,re plumb and route around the old mech pump (or remove and cap off) so if its diaphragm leaks the elec pump don't fill your crankcase with GAS !!!!!!!!!!,,,,,,,,,,,,,,add a series in line crash safety tumbler cut off switch from the pump switch back to the pump so gas stops if you crash
Unless a person is blind they can find an inline elec pump under the RV and if on you can see/feel/hear if its working when switched on. If its in the tank (I doubt but cant guarantee) if one is under the RV and its turned on you can still hear it buzzing
GET WELL SOON
Could detect no "noise" from the suspected pump. I think I'm going to see if I can get the mechanic here to do me a favor and just do a looksee tomorrow afternoon...
Any RV I had (Dodge or otherwise) when you turned the key before starting you heard the pump kick in. A low whine or vibration for about 4-5 seconds. It was pressurizing the fuel line. If that dint happen, then I knew either the battery was about dead or the pump was shot.
Daniel, You state " Any RV I had (Dodge or otherwise) when you turned the key before starting you heard the pump kick in. A low whine or vibration for about 4-5 seconds. It was pressurizing the fuel line"
Ive owned an RV for 47 years continuous and that's how alllllllllllll mine worked REGARDLESS if it was an external pump OR and in tank. It has to build up sufficient pressure then it shuts off and YES you can hear (or feel if underneath) them if you listen carefully. On my internal in tank pumps (newer RV's) I heard the whine, but for the older external pumps I heard the clik clik clik chatter until they built up pressure
If her mechanical pump is having to suck thru a non working elec pump that may be too much restriction !!!!!!!!!!!!!! If she has EITHER a good "working" external OR in tank electric pump she may get her fuel delivery problem cured ??????????
She MUST determine if she has a working Internal OR External pump and if they are working if I were her I'd by pass the old mechanical pump. I "suspect" she has a NON working elec pump and that's a big part of her problem.
Nice chatting with you
That's what I'm suspecting. Either not working and causing my issue, or it has already been bypassed by a PO.
Going to take it over to the mechanics either today or Monday and see what they can determine since I wasn't able to hear anything no matter what position the toggle switch was in. Best case scenario that pump has already been bypassed and I can continue on, and consider the recommendation to add one back in and bypass the mechanical one.
GOOD PLAN even if its there and has been by passed, all the jury rigged fittings and splices and rubber hoses may be enough of a restriction its hampering the mechanical pump. On the low pressure SUCTION side of a mechanical pump you just cant have to much length or many restrictions. I have even seen too much rubber hose used where the pump sucked it down closing off fuel flow. Also you cant stand ANY air leaks on the suction side !!!!
Let us know