Texas WILL require you have it weighed, (Im doing that right now). The DMV won't take any manufactures documentation on and weights listed. I recommend you take it to get weighed, (any truck stop with scales). BARE bones with very little in it. Texas will charge you for Yr. and WEIGHT. Plus don't forget to have the trailer INSPECTED, (New Texas law, ALL trailers need inspection sticker). Good luck on your restoration,, Ya found the best place on the net with great folks to help you along.
I showed DMV the vehicle I.D. tag on the RV. And I gave them Factory specs directly from the factory. She could care less,, she Just wanted it weighed ,,and she said empty weight. Well, shes getting a full live in weight and she will have to minus what my personal contents weigh.
(Im a full timer). Texas requires an Inspection sticker BEFORE they will give you tags.
You can call around to area inspection stations and see which one does trailer inspections,, usually same place they do a vehicle inspection. Local inspection station did mine,, passed with flying colors on my 30 yr old 5th. wheel. As long as it rolls, tires are decent and lights work,, they will put a sticker on the tongue of the trailer.. Was $16 fee here and they give you the DMV paper work for the inspection also to give to DMV for your tags.. Just make sure ya have a weight ticket or ya get the run around.
Good morning, Gerald Sanderson;
Some other things to consider for your trailer and not having any information on what are the weight ratings for it:
Having the GVWR for taxing purposes (the cost of the license plate), is only one part of it.
You might be able to have a trailer repair shop or suspension specialist identify and tell you the manufacturer for the axle assembly. Knowing what the weight limit for the axle and the suspension system will give you one number that should not be exceeded.
Look also at the tires. There should be on the sidewall a maximum weight carrying capacity at the maximum pressure for that tire. The numbers will be slightly different for multiple tire configurations, such as for dual or tandem wheels; usually a little less per tire than for a single tire configuration. This will give you another maximum weight limit that should not be passed. You can also look up the tire manufacturers chart or data for tire pressure and rated carrying capacity at the pressure.
The maximum carrying capacity for each part of the suspension system, (the tires, the bearings, the axle, the springs), all should be in about the same range since all of them must pass the same weight through them and on to the next part of the suspension system. If one of them is lower than the others, then that one part will determine what is the weight limit or carrying capacity of that side of your trailer suspension. Yes, the old "weakest link in the chain" theory.
But the combination of both of the tires or both of the springs, et cetera, should then total about what the axle is rated to carry. If you have a 9000 pound GVWR for the trailer, they are assuming that you are probably carrying 4500 pounds on each side. Having only 3000 pounds on one side and 6000 pounds on the other side does indeed come up to only that 9000 pound Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, but that 6000 pounds on one side might be 1000 to 1500 pounds over the rated weight carrying capacity of some parts on that 6000 pound side. There is a "weight imbalance" from side to side. There could be a problem.
The maximum tongue weight will usually be set for the trailer hitch by the towing vehicle manufacturer and the class of trailer hitch installed.
Getting the trailer weighed at each wheel location is useful. That will tell you if you have the weight in the trailer evenly distributed from side to side. I am sure that everyone is aware of the true need to have more weight between the axle and the towing tongue (up to the maximum tongue weight rating), than behind the axle. If you are not able to move things around to balance the load from side to side because things are permanently mounted, then you might consider fitting springs rated for the weight carried on that side, or an airbag suspension kit to help level the frame above the axle. I have the AirLift 5000 kit on the rear axle of my motor home, and I have a higher pressure on the left side than on the right side to get the frame-to-axle measurement or "ride height" the same on each side. There is a clear weight imbalance from side to side on my motor home with the 54 gallon water tank and the 30 gallon auxiliary fuel tank along with the kitchen stuff and other things on the left side. This is a "non-documented feature" of the original design by the manufacturer. Fortunately part of it is offset by the 280 pound 120 VAC generator on the back left side. And the airbags allow me to keep the ride height the same if I have the tanks full or empty by changing the airbag pressure.
Again, for safe traveling, weigh and learn what is your tongue weight, and the weight on each side of the axle. Getting the center of gravity located in the middle between the wheels and forward of the axle is the goal. Just one man's thoughts.
Latte Land, Washington
Excellent info Ralph, appreciate the added input. The more info we can aquire the better.
I have a 67 roadrunner. put it on a truck scale. 20010lbs. check out our site here. Jim & Marilyn Day
I have a 1967 Roadrunner, probable pretty much like the one you have. I had it weighed (with an empty water tank) after we refurbished it. exactly, 2010lbs. Does this help you?? Jim and Marilyn -- Walla Walla, WA