Roof sag and leaks 1983 winnebago chieftain

I am a newbie to this but thanks for adding me.
I picked up a 1983 winnebago chieftain for cheap as in $900. Plus back dmv fees. I new the motor would be replaced and there was some water damage. So I knew the roof leaked. I am almost ready to put rebuilt motor in and decided to look at other problems. I tore up the laminate flooring and found some floor needs to be replaced. Also started looking at the ceiling and found by the a/c's the roof sags. I am decently handy. Has anyone repaired a sagging roof for a winnebago chieftain and or replaced the plywood floor. I have $2000.00 into it now and want it to last awhile. Is it worth fixing. Please give me your opinions, stories and or help.

Thanks
Steve

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Tags: RV Roof Repair, Winnebago roof repair

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Comment by Lakota Wolf on June 16, 2014 at 8:22pm

You can up to the wall... remember the wall sits atop of the floor, and have to be careful going under the wall. You can lay new flooring down butted up to the wall as long as your wall studs are secured to the floor.And if you do it that way,, you can add a felt strip between the new flooring and the wall for a vibration dampner.

Comment by Stephen on June 16, 2014 at 8:09pm
Thanks for all the input. I am putting the motor in next weekend hopefully start it the following weekend then start the fun stuff. As for the floor how close can you get to the outer walls without destroying anything thanks in advanve
Comment by Lakota Wolf on June 16, 2014 at 7:34pm

I used 2x2 and 3x3 (also referred as pallet stands) for standard cross members and I used a 2x4 for support where a/c units attach, With 2x4 application, I kept the original 3 3/4 inches of the width of the 2x4 and (Tappered it down to 1 1/2 inches at the contact point to the walls).I used wall stud braces to affix the new roof support to the walls, and the protruding metal on the bracket, I bent and folded flush to the wall. The weight of the roof will keep in tact with the wall and side screws will keep it in place. The brackets are commonly used for framing in walls to ceiling joists in homes.

Using the taper down from the center of stud to the outside with give you a very slight rise in the center of the roof and taper the flow of rain water to the sides of the roof for draining and not pooling up on a flat roof. After you replace the roofing metal,, eternal bond roof sealer,,, (mans best friend with roof sealing and repairs, Ive even doubled the application around roof vents and a/c ducting.

SIDE NOTE*** If you plan on doing alot of walking on the roof,,I.E. roof parties at the local race track,, instead of 2x2 standard cross members, use 2x4's with same taper design every 12 to 14 inches, (if you feel comfortable, you can go 16 like a house, but not recommended).

Hope this helps,,, I have my thinking cap on and if The light bulb blinks, I will add more advice I deem is important..  Good luck.

Comment by Pat Daly on June 16, 2014 at 5:35pm

Lakota, what sort of material did you use to fabricate the inside cross members and to seal the roof exterior? Always curious about this very common problem....

Comment by Lakota Wolf on June 16, 2014 at 3:29pm

Like Pat mentioned,, theres tons of info on roof repair and rebuild,,And its always better to tear from inside out. I had a cheiftan and its very common to have the roof sag at the a/c points.

When replacing the cross rafters, I added double at the weigh points where the a/c was mounted on the roof, Plus added a little lift in the center, making the roof dome sloped and not flat.

Not extreme domed but just an inch rise from center to the sides, makes the water run off instead of puddling up on top creating a mini lake.

Comment by Stephen on June 16, 2014 at 10:12am
Thanks for the comment Pat I will check out the how too's and figure it out.
Comment by Pat Daly on June 15, 2014 at 10:38pm

Hey Steve that's the most common, and sometimes, big problem we have with classic rvs. There are a ton of posts, complete with pictures, on roof repair, including Winnebagos.  See several links on right under our How To posts and in members repair albums center of the home page. You can also type in roof repair and up will come pages of photos and discussions.

A complete roof repair is a big job, but you seem to like the rig and don't have too many dollars in it. Just be ready to really dig into it once you open up the roof or the interior where it is sagging and be prepared for some yukkie stuff... and work. I like the idea of opening up from the inside first. Members, what's your experience with this and how to proceed?  

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