I came across an old (early 80's) small Class C. The engine and transmission have been rebuilt. Runs perfect. I got it for such a deal, I couldn't pass it up.
I have construction knowledge, so I decided to completely renovate the inside. I stripped it down to the studs. Things are going well so far.
I do have a question regarding the propane system I'm hoping someone can help me with.
I only need propane for the oven and water heater. The oven is a Wedgewood 4 burner range/oven. The water heater is a 6 gallon Atwood.
The propane tank that came with it is one of the ones underneath, but it's old and can't be refilled.
My thought was, I could just secure 2 20# tanks on a back rack, have the interior gas lines run to the back access door with a standard low pressure regulator. When I arrive at a campground, I could just hook up the regulator to the tanks. When I'm ready to leave, unhook the tanks and I'm good to go.
Is there anything wrong with this plan? Can propane tanks be secured on a exterior back rack and travel fine?
The oven and water heater run on the same low pressure system, correct?
I really appreciate any help. I've never worked on an RV before, and have really enjoyed figuring out all the systems and building it out from scratch!
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I also would appreciate thoughts/ideas from all. Nate, I've been tossing around the same idea but pooh - poohed by others. Have been debating on being a full timer and want/need any and all storage I can get. It was brought up that I could have a metal cage welded on the rear bumper for storage. Am concerned about weight distribution rear bumper versus right side under passenger side. Thank
May I comment on storage? When adding weight, Be aware that if you load to much on either side of rig, the proportionate weight values of balance come into effect. Storage box on roof tward the rear are common locations on Class C rigs.. just my 2 cents,,, happy camping.
On several Class C's I have renovated, the rear compartment, usually where a genset goes or storage, I have mounted double small Blue Rhino tanks, (sometimes only room for one). I plumbed NEW black gas pipe from tank (s). down thru floor, to stove and heater,incl. water heater. It's all low pressure through a regulator.DON'T use Plastic Gas pipe,,, been there done that, leak city waiting to happen down the road. Black steel pipe like at Home Depot or Lowes etc, with elbows etc are my preferred material. Secure piping every 6 to 10 inches with Plumbing strap,( long 1 inch wide strapping with holes every 1/4 inch).Put piece of rubber at each hanger,, keeps strap and pipe from rubbing a wear spot. AND,,, Take that permanent tank off,,,, No One refills them anymore,, They have been known to be a portable grenade. Takes me about 3/4's a day to plumb in new piping. Keeping plumb pipe along frame rail away from drive train and exhaust. NOTE.. If you mount inside cabinet,, SECURE it so it dont bounce around,, same with ,if you mount externally,, Police and troopers love to stop you for unsecured equipment. Good luck. Any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
F.Y.I. ALWAYS TURN PROPANE TANKS OFF WHILE TRAVELING.
Thanks for the reply Lakota Wolf.
How did you secure the tank in the back cabinet/storage box? My box is kind of small, and the tank won't fit standing. Can you lay them down, or do they have to be standing?
I ran new soft copper gas lines to the stove and water heater. I've run copper in a house before, which is why I chose that. I already had all the tools, etc.
I ran the lines inside instead of underneath. They're boxed in in the back bottom of the cabinets.
I've got a standard 20# tank hooked up to a regulator, and then a tee to the stove and water heater. Everything seems to be working fine.
I'd love to secure the tank in the rear storage box, but wasn't sure if it was ok to lay it on it's side?
A standard propane tank,, (example, BBQ tank) cannot be layed on the side. Rv dealers and online (which is cheaper) have tanks designed to be layed on the side. Laying a standard tank on the side allowws the **Liquid to settle which is close to the valve. tanks are only filled to 80% leaving expansion room and an area for *gas. The liquid turns to gas in upper portion of tank. A tank thats designed to be layed on its side had a baffeling device stopping the liquid from entering the valve area.
Copper line is also a good idea, Just so you wont be having anything rub or bump into it. You mentioned running the line in back bottom of cabinets which is clever idea. With gas lines Inside the unit,, invest in a GAS leak detector, I pick them up on Ebay for about $11. they wire right into a 12 volt power source. (they mount 4 to 8 inches off the floor). Gas is heavier then air.
Secure your tank with Water heater strapping sold at hardware stores. Two pieces, secured to sold part of structure, pull both straps together around the tank and use a bolt with wing nut to tighten both straps around tank to keep tank from moving.
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