What about this caulk...?

[Dawn Michelle]

Lexel Sealant

I was looking for a clear caulk to use around my exterior marker lights (for the future - the white I used sure stood out against the beige) and was told it's hard to get a water-based latex in clear.  I do like the idea of protecting the butyl tape even though I suspect it's not necessary?  Many of my exterior fittings don't seem to have a sealant.  Anyway saw this and it says it's better than silicone, is paintable, doesn't yello, and gets good reviews from at least one of the guys there at the hardware store for weatherproof longevity.  They said after a couple years it came off glass well, but less well off the auto paint (they used it to seal a windshield) - but no worse than latex.

Any thoughts?

[Rich Thomas]

Dawn, Polyurethane is the only caulk I would recommend for that and around windows, it comes in a crystal clear as well as white and probably an array of other colors as well. Stay away from silicone and silicone based products. I have windows that I used Poly on three years old and it's still clear and tightly bonded to the siding.

[Dawn Michelle]

The thing is we can't figure out what this stuff is made out of - it keeps saying it's better than silicone, but not what it is other than an "elastomeric".  Is that a fancy word for silicone?  We looked up technical data and nothing seems to indicate what it is, exactly :-)

I'll see what I can find polyurethane based...

[Terry H]

'Elastomeric' is a somewhat misleading term for 'Elastomer'. Definition here:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elastomer

Protecting the butyl tape is important. It is susceptible to prolonged UV exposure, manifesting as drying out. This does take a considerable amount of time to occur, but the possibility is there.

My recommendation would be for a QUALITY urethane or polyurethane caulking. Sikaflex, NP1, etc.

There are steps to follow for a satisfactory and enduring application:

Prep: substrate cleaning - extremely important

Ensuring you have an actual void to fill with the caulk. That is why you should keep the butyl tape back from the outside edge of the clearance light, widow frame, etc.

Masking both surfaces - important to maintain an aesthetic appearance, and ties into....

Caulking application - you have to force it into the void AHEAD of the caulking gun to avoid air bubbles, and also ties into.....

Tooling - if you do not tool the caulking all of your time and expense will be a total waste, Tooling is two stages - the first ensures you have forced the caulk into the void and removes any remaining air. Second is gentle with soapy water to achieve a smooth bead that you will be proud of.

Masking removal is between the first and second stage, and always pulled away from the caulk.

Your clearance lights, being small will be good practice. At some point it time you will likely have to do window frame/s, and will likely appreciate the practice.

While I have never seen a 'clear' polyurethane, I would recommend against it. The quality manufactures have a variety of colors. Beige, cream, off white etc. If carefully applied, in my opinion, white on your lights would be a striking contrast. Window frames, black.

You will likely find the most difficult steps are keeping your fingers clean between tooling and stripping the masking, and most difficult will be the masking itself. There are tips and caveats for both if you are interested.

Above are my opinions only. Based on more years of experience than I like to admit to.

[Terry H]

his "desire to make it personal"

?????????

If, as it does appear, I have somehow offended you I do refer you to the last paragraph in my post.....

"Above are my opinions only. Based on more years of experience than I like to admit to."

Offence was neither implied or intended.

[Rich Thomas]

I took this as an insult because the quotation marks implied it,you singled me out. I felt that it was meant that way. I thought,why else would you feel compelled to end your post with your quote" Above are my opinions only" unless you knew it was offensive. I give my advice openly and with the best of intentions and from actual use or events. I don't play games with words and I'm not going to get into a pissing match over this. I removed my post and I will take you at your word. My apologies to Dawn for having this happen in her post It's not how things should be on this site.  

[Dawn Michelle]

Hey guys, hate there was some misunderstanding and no offense taken on my end, Rich, but thanks for that.

I feel like I learn oodles from everyone and if there seems to be a difference in opinion it lets me know that there are different ways to approach the same job.  I expect there'll be some trial and error to figure out what works for me :-)  Terry got me to thinking about proper way to apply the bead and tool/smooth it (I didn't even realize that I might not be doing it 'right' so I did some research on that), and between both of you I have some products to consider.  My biggest concern at this end is not using something I'm going to be swearing over when I have to remove in the future (ie silicone).  I don't want to be my own worst enemy.

Don't laugh (well, do - it's funny and I'd like to close this post on a humorous note), but I JUST figured out I'm probably starting the engine wrong - I knew to pump the gas a couple of times first but didn't know the switch had to be in the on position for an electric choke (which we had put on in Denver).  My first cars must have been carb'd (late 70s monza and an early 70s fiat) but I bet everything after that was fuel injected.  I only have the vaguest memory of doing it.  So finally got on YouTube and found where someone even posted the instructions that used to be on the visor (it is of a mustang, but I guess it gives me a clue), including how to get it unflooded...something of concern since I have to get it to the mechanics yet with my hesitation off of idle issue that leads to stall that at least once on the trip over left the BF stranded with a flooded engine for twenty minutes.  So, see why I'm super cautious in my approach?  I have to watch a YouTube video on how to start her up !!!!!  (facepalm)

[Rich Thomas]

You are very Gracious Dawn, I felt I was slighted and called him on it. Terry says no intent and I choose to take him at his word. Case closed as far as I am concerned. Hopefully no hard feelings as I think we need more folks with his background. It's funny how two little lines can cause little things to be not so little "   " . I too have a little dead spot in my q-jet right off idle that can stall me out at the most in-opportune times and soils an otherwise flawless system. My routine is to give two full pumps on the throttle then hit the ignition then usually a couple more pumps after and she comes to life. If I've been running it day after day then she will start up with just the two pumps and hit the key. Terry mentioned Sikaflex products as did I on the caulk. It is a very good product I used Sikaflex 221 for all of the seams requiring a non leveling caulk and Dycor ( not sure of the spelling) self leveling for all the seams that lay flat like around vents and flat roof seams. Both recommended by the RV shop in Lancaster Ohio if memory serves me it's called Specialty RV. ; both have been on my mine for the third year now with out needing any attention. Sickiflex and Dycor are more expensive Sickaflex more so than Dycor but they are very high quality. I also used Dap clear flexible sealant when I ran out of the qaud clear and so far it is holding up as well. I think it is an elastomeric. I always thought urethane was just short for polly urethane but they have different characteristics. I think Terry could school all of us on this topic and I hope he has a thick skin and stays around. any way thanks for being gracious.    

[Terry H]

Thank you Rich.

No offence was intended and non was taken.

[Rich Thomas]

No problem Terry and Thank you as well.

 

[Rick Faunce]

Dawn, I will not address the caulk issue since it has already been addressed. I can say I have followed Terry's advice on mine and it worked out very well for me. As far as starting your vehicle goes you are doing it correctly. The electric choke is operated by a spring to close it for starting but the electric part opens it as it warms up. So bottem line is that the ignition can be off to set the choke, it will operate just fine and will come off as the engine is running.

[Dawn Michelle]

Good to know because all my "learning" did nothing but help me flood it out when I started her up this weekend. What do they say about too much education...?!

[Rick Faunce]

You may have been too use to pumping the gas pedal many times in the past if the choke was not working back then. Now, if the choke is working correctly, you only need to pump the gas a couple times and then that is it. Every engine is different and they all have their own sweet spot for how they start but two pumps is a good place to start. If it is still flooding then one pump. But if it is flooding at one pump then the choke pulloff needs to be adjusted, it is too tight. Once the engine starts it should chug for just a couple seconds and then smooth out at high idle. If it stays chugging and blowing black smoke the choke pulloff is adjusted too tight.