What product for camper door weatherstripping?

[Dawn Michelle]

Hi all - just finished a blog post that will hopefully make it through moderation soon. My question that relates to that (and it has pics there as well) is as follows:

Today I cleaned the old and deteriorating weather stripping from around the camper door. I'd picked up the replacement (exactly what was on there - 1/2 inch window insulation - that gray foam with the adhesive backing) but after spending two hours getting the old stuff off I thought I'd make sure I'm putting the right stuff back up. Just because it was there before doesn't mean there isn't a better product I am supposed to be using...

So what do you guys use on the metal trim to weatherproof your camper door(s)?

[Terry H]

My recommendation would be to go with similar to what you removed. You may want to ensure that the replacement is 'closed cell' as opposed to 'open cell'. The majority available in hardware/big box stores will be closed cell. It is designed to and does stand up far better to moisture and UV.

When you cleaned off the existing - messy job - did you also clean the adhesive residue left on the frame flange? Naptha or old school lighter fluid is very effective.

My suggestion for applying the new is to start at the bottom center. Use your thumb and forefinger as a guide at the edge of the flange and same fingers opposite hand on the other side to maintain a visually pleasing line. Helps a lot if you have help to feed and unroll the foam. Keeping the edge of the foam back a bit from the edge of the flange will help prevent it from being damaged from coats, people, animals etc, from dragging against the foam and pulling it away from the flange.

For the rounded corners, shortly before you reach them, strip approx. 6" of the protective vinyl from the foam. The foam will adapt to the curve, but the vinyl will put up a fight.

Continue up one side, top, opposite side and bottom.

Leave a small - 1/16" gap - at the bottom joint. This allows any water ingress an unobstructed  egress point.

This is a regular (somewhat) maintenance issue and is a consumable item. Replacement should help heat retention, AC effectiveness and, to a degree, reduction of road noise while travelling. Maybe not to a huge degree, but any help is just that.

[Terry H]

Sorry. Replied before I saw your photos. Stripping the old remaining foam is not nice. Removing the old foam adhesive is much less fun.

My previous post was based upon a door with contoured corners. Should yours have square corners a different application may be better. It involves what is referred to as a 'Waterfall Application'.

[Dawn Michelle]

Hi Terry, much appreciated! Yes, and lighter fluid might have been more effective in the long run, didn't think about that and I know there's some around here somewhere.

The flange is slightly wider than 1/2 inch and the original tape was applied to the inner corner edges, so I understood what you meant there about not applying it to lie flush with the outer edge where it will catch.

I can't really find anything on waterfall application - I made the mistake of not paying better attention before taking it off (done that before - soon will have another trim replacement question once I get some pics). I know each side was a strip, meeting the other at a right angle, but not sure now whether the top strip was all the way across and the sides butted up to it or vice versa. I'm assuming the former. Waterfall makes me think of overlapping but then I'd have issues with the door closing - or do I cut the trim at 45 degree angles to fit together? Seems like that would be nicer if perhaps a slight bit more difficult to get right.

[Terry H]

Hello Dawn. Not overlapped, rather butt joints. Top first, full length. Then the two sides, butted into the top and full length at the bottoms. Bottom is butted into the two sides. This directs any water that may enter downward.

[Dawn Michelle]

Perfect! I got it. Appreciate your time!!

[Dawn Michelle]

Put in the weatherstripping today.  Closed cell - impressed by look and feel.  My application.  Meh.  Not so much.  I was overconfident - just lay the stuff down right?  It didn't want to grab to the corner edges, kept drifting, stretched, and butting the edges were harder than I thought. Put it up against and edge and halfway down the side of the door realized it had pulled away.  It looks okay, just can see gaps between the edge I intended and where it decided to lay.  Am hoping after time these smooth out.  And if not, it's a cheap redo. I'm pretty sure this isn't the same as the original stuff as it had an adhesive, tape and foam - this stuff seems to have the adhesive directly adhered to the foam.

[Terry H]

This may help in future. Kind of difficult to explain, but....

If you are doing one of the sides unroll approx. 12". Apply only the first 2" and rub it on upwards only. Come down 10" or so and just touch it onto the flange. Rub that on upwards only. Continue on unrolling and applying 12" or so at a time. You will have better control and by rubbing upwards it should not stretch. If you have access to a small laminate roller you can roll it all after installed with a fair amount of pressure. Top and bottom, same thing. A common problem is trying to put on too long a length.

Also, don't remove the protective vinyl until you are completely finished.

It can be somewhat daunting on a first attempt.

[Dawn Michelle]

Ah, yes, I can visualize that process.  Very good tips.  Think it might help to have a third hand to hold that roll - I found it unrolling on me as I worked.  

My other discovery today?  Don't hang a butyl tape roll on a pegboard (facepalm).  

[Terry H]

You are correct about the butyl tape. Store flat, wax paper squares both sides and between rolls. You can hang it if you have a piece of cardboard tube (paper towel type?)  that it fits over reasonably tight. The roll distortion is caused by its own weight.

Third hand - if we all had one we'd all be wishing for a fourth.