Another day in paradise--or--What repairing delamination entails.

[Russell E Johnson]

Took at the MMP again this morning. What a fun time that was. First thing I did was to once again back the pickup up to the MMP, but the driver's door this time, not the main door. Closer and easier to throw everything out the driver's window instead of opening and closing the big door and letting all the hot, humid air in and the wonderfully dry cold air out.

Turns out I did not have to worry about the window over the dinette falling out, my grandson and I re-caulked that window about two months ago and that butyl tape sticks real good--he pushed and pushed on it and it would not move so I decided to just leave it be and work around it. Did learn something new because of this, fresh butyl take holds real well, old butyl tape not at all well. Still have not gotten any feedback on my window question so I still do not know how often windows should be removed and the butyl tape replaced. I do know for sure that at two months it is still highly functional LOL.

I did not remove the staples after pulling up the rest of the carpet. There are a bazillion-gazillion of them again and was just not in the mood. I am debating with the idea of just driving them in with a hammer and not pulling them this time. After all, hardwood flooring is 3/4 to 1 inch thick, how much warp-page can a little staple cause to something that thick? Hmm, another question to ponder some night while staring at a bonfire and the starry night sky. NOT!

Found good connection between the fiberglass, paneling, insulation, and inside paneling over the window so I stopped that part of the removal process. Working on the lower side surprised me as it too seems very solid, proven to be so by going outside and tapping on the walls looking for delamination and finding none in that area. YEAH!!! a trimming up on the inside for a square seam and I will be ready to start the area around the driver's door.

When that is all removed then I will be able to start the assembly process. Building framework and gluing/screwing the fiberglass to it. Hope springs eternal as the destruction process is coming to an end and the rebuilding process looms on the horizon.

So that is this installment of the 'What in the heck was I thinking' moment'. Gonna hit the ole grocery store this afternoon and plan to start on the MMP again tomorrow morning.

Be safe all in your travels and enjoy the journey. We will only pass this way once, and there are no do overs.

[Lakota Wolf]

On butyl tape sealing? My short 5th wheel still has original 33 year old butyl tape around the windows and NO LEAKS.

I do believe its all how it was originally installed and if it was done correctly. Then throw in the factor of movement and flexing of the window, As I can see more movement in a larger window then a smaller one.

The door frame DID (or seemed to) need replacing 2 years ago,I had found a crack in the seal and assumed it was a leak waiting to happen,, So instead of waiting for it to appear, I resealed the front door frame, (BTW, I dont think it was going to leak, that seal was firm all the way around and that crack was only visable on the outside edge of the butyl and not all the way through). But hey,, 3 hours of work to replace and seal,,*just in case was better then ignoring it only to discover it to be a huge problem later.

(plus was an excellent opportunity to check the door for any unseen damage and check the door opening in the RV for unseen other sneaky leaks that could have occured). I would honestly think,, If there is ANY sign of water damage,, even minimal BELOW any window, then there is the possiblity that you have fracture cracks in the original butyl seal and its not that big a project to replace the seal,, Butyl tape in large rolls are reasonable on price and resealing a window, give you one less *leak waiting to happen problem to deal with later. AND,,, as we seasoned RV'ers know,, Mother nature wins in the long run with the beating sun, freezing rain, snow and just all around weather, and we just have to keep pace to stay ahead.    ok, nuff of my 14 cents,,,

Thats good news you found good adhesion with the fiberglass body,, That much LESS labor involved in a tear out.   Just pace yourself while the temps climb up during the day,, drink plenty of liquids,, and great idea having the a/c on to make the job more tolerable...  Good job Russ..

[M K Wilkie]

Modern RV construction techniques. This from someone who owns a 2008 Cruiser...
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Los Angeles. CA
Posts: 51
Default window seals
Noticed a small water leak I suspected was coming from the emergency exit window. When I removed the Window I was surprised to see the putty tape that was used to seal the window was not even making contact with the Wall of the trailer in a lot of spots. It looked like Stevie Wonder put the tape on the window frame. totally sloppy work by the manufacture. The only thing keeping the water out was a super thin bead of caulk on the outside frame of the window. The caulking was getting weathered and pulled way from the frame in spots. I ended removing the front window and other side window. Same thing putty tape looked brand new not even touching parts of the wall. Again the only thing keeping the water out was the thin caulking..better check the caulking on your windows.."

[Lakota Wolf]

That seems to be common place on a lot of rigs,,,  Stevie Wonders *side job,,A few past rigs Ive had or worked on had similar *Gaps, from poor workmanship. It was a case of TO MUCH or not enough. I have seen it 1/4 inch thick on the bottom of the window frame (like its really going to leak uphill), and chinsy paper thin at the top. Quality and Quality control has gone down the drain with assemblers not being proud of what they build,, plus the big bosses squeezing labor dollars to increase profit dollars. I was fortunate to have found a rig that had some pride built behind it,,It was probably built the day after bonuses was passed out...lol

[Rich Thomas]

Russ, I don't see much of a problem with the plan to drive in the staples. Most hard wood manufactures recommend an under-lay or vapor barrier. Lowe's sells a couple different kinds. a red paper like product and some type of closed cell foam. I would think either of those would absorb the ridges caused by the driven in staples and you would never know they was there. 

[Tina]

The light at the end of the tunnel is moving toward you.  :)   Good job keeping up the positive thoughts and hard work. It will pay off.

[Russell E Johnson]

As long as that light is not on the engine of a train it is a good sight. LOL