aqua matic dual flush toilet by thetford 1984 Southwind class a

[phil moulton]

leaking when water pump is on.. looks like its internal from what i can find.

HOW do i take this thing off its base.. or do i lift the wood base up and are drain hoses long enough or do i somehow remove the drain lines and feed line first,

a. are parts available ?

b, if not whats a drop in replacement ?

c. are internal parts generic plumbing parts and are modifiable ?

looks like a black hose inside is seeping but unknown until i pull toilet off

[Lakota Wolf]

This isnt a huge repair job,,, Turn water off, so you have no pressure,, Undo the 2 Nuts/or Bolts, to unfasten the toilet from the floor,,, carfefully take the toilet outside,,Some water is still in the lines,, so dont panic if water comes out.The upright hose off the valve assembly are prone to cracking and leaking around the clamp points, While in there, fiddling,,, take some water in a squirt bottle and see if the water flows freely thru the valve assembly. Sometimes micro debri will get caught in there,, its not rocket science to clean that up,, its pretty much self explanatory as how it assembles,,, Just be careful if its spring loaded, Replace the upper feed hose with either clear plumb hose,, available at Lowes, Home depot, ace hardware,, etc.. Install NEW Clamps and snug tight,, Dont crank them so much you cut into the hose,,, Sinse ya have the stool out,, give oit a good ole bath with some dawn dish soap,, making sure the flap door moves freely and seals correctly,, rinse it off and then test fill the bowl to see if it holds water,,,Water in the bowl makes a water barrier seal,,, if all is good,, reinstall the toilet, hook up water supply line and turn water on and check for leaks,,,  Hope this helps,,,, good luck and let us know what ya found..

[phil moulton]

are the two bolts then accessible from the backside.. and the toilet just sits over the gray/black water tanks ??

it looks like the entire wood base of the toilet needs to be replaced.. so should i just shut water down.. disconnect supply hose and lift the top wood and toilet assmbly out as a unit..

just want to make sure there are not "fittings" between the toilet and the holding tanks..

[Lakota Wolf]

Can you attach a picture of your toilet mounted on the floor so we have a better idea how yours is mounted?  Toilets usually just sit in top of the seal to the waste tank. 2 bolts hold the stool still.

[Terry H]

I have never seen a Thetford Aqua Magic where you have to remove the floor to remove the toilet. As above, two bolts, generally at 3 and 9 o'clock.

A couple of suggestions I have found personally helpful:

1. Any time you remove your toilet, replace the flange seal. They are inexpensive.

2. When lifting it off, first tape the seat down. Place a garbage bag over the toilet. As you lift it off, flip it upside down. May help to avoid unwanted surprises.

3. Before you reinstall, change the feed line to a flexible braided steel line. Given the limited access room to the connection you likely experienced when disconnecting you probably see the advantage to this. In my case I can connect/disconnect mine before placing it on the flange (while it is away from the wall, giving me more room to work), as well as not having to deal with a rigid line and plastic threads.

I am in Canada so I don't know it this will help, but I found some braided lines with an integral ball valve. I use them on the shower, toilet, vanity and galley sinks and water heater feeds. With these, should I have a faucet etc. leak I can shut the desired feed quickly while not loosing water use before or after the leak. As well, again, it is far easier to connect/disconnect a flexible line in a limited access area. It adds a bit to the cost, but if it saves me a half hour of difficult (at my age) contortions and greatly reduces the chance of cross threading a fitting on a rigid line, it is money well spent.

[phil moulton]

the only two bolts i see look like studs and are only visible with a camera facing into the back of the toilet.

[Terry H]

I apologize. They are in fact T-studs on a slide sleeve that allows for either a 3 & 9 or 6 & 12 o'clock positioning, with allowances for slight deviation.

Your photos help, but far better would be 3 from the front shooting the base - centre, left and right..

What may assist you is to look straight down into the toilet drain. It is a 3" diameter hole at the tank. Within 1 1/2 " of the outside of that drain diameter will be the fastening studs. NOT the centre of the toilet, but the centre of the actual toilet drain. It does connect to the tank straight down, no bends, gravity drain.

[Lakota Wolf]

The can and do hide a hold down nut behind the flush pedal, sometimes you have to lift or depress the pedal to access it. The other is on the back, hidden from line of sight, I've had to feel and find to get it.