It,s a balmy 3 degrees!! Time to start doing the heavy mechanic's on the "Queen". She's a Class C, 1 ton duelly, all butt 20' bumper to bumper @ 8,000 lbs. Carburetion on this olde gal... I am ready to yank this Holley H2 2210 and throw it against the wall!! We knew when we bought her that the carb needed work. The right carb & it's settings are the heart of any engine. Here's my dilemma. Do I rebuild or replace with new and improved. I would really like an electric choke - cold starts suck. Fuel economy, ease of tune ability, settings; that will hold. 2 barrel 500 cfm square bore vs a 4 barrel spread bore @ 600 cfm. She has a 3 speed automatic transmission. Here's another thing to put in our bonnets. We live @ an altitude of 5,500 ft. above sea level. We do a lot of mountain camping typically @ 9'000 ft. above sea level & would like to take her along. It's the age old fight between Holley vs Carter (Edelbrock now a days). It's all about air or lack of it.
Mmmmmm.. Do I keep the old and rebuild/remanufactured? OR Do I replace with a new Holley 500 cfm - electric choke (bypass the heat/vacuum auto business). OR Change the input manifold to a spread bore configuration add a 600 cfm Edelbrock electric choke. I really would like to keep a cast iron manifold..........
What do....What to do? Any suggestions? Do and don'ts from experience?

Views: 2094

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

 A few years back I owned several Class C's with the Dodge 360 and Torqueflite 727 tranny, they were almost bulletproof and gave me great service. I kinda miss them old girls. I also had the Winnebago Class A's with 413 Dodge Truck Engine NOW THAT WAS A GREAT RV ENGINE. I bought an Edelbrock replacement carb for one of those but its been too long now to remember just what one. However the Holley 500 you mentioned with elec choke sounds like the easier way to go.

 John T

Thanks John. Class A. Nice. Your right - with a replacement Holley - somewhat straight forward - easy. We would still have to crack it open to reject @ 8'000 ft most new carbs are set for performance & sea level. Add throttle linkage kit & your good to go. It's the lack of air with improvement towards slightly better fuel economy. Any idea's? Shake those cob webs out. P.

 To improve MPG on an old carburetored engine, Holly or someone used to make a sort of Throttle Body Fuel Injection replacement device that looks like a carb or later model throttle body injection system that bolted right in and replaced carb. HOWEVER they were like $700 so not sure if a good investment. I owned a ton of those old Dodges and the bet way I improved MPG was to install true dual exhaust with each side having 2 1/2 inch pipes and each side like a Thrush or high flow muffler and tail pipes I shortened and ran out the sides versus all the way back. A bit louder but did improve MPG.

 Years ago I sent my carbs and distributor to Gerharty Automotive RV in California and they adjusted the weights n springs in the distributors to change the advance curve plus laid hands on the carb and did some magic and that along with my free flow dual 2 1/2 exhaust pipes added at least 1 MPG. I would also use 4 inch aluminum dryer vent hose with a brass fine mesh screen cover (keep bugs out)  and place it so while driving it was forcing air into the air cleaner assembly. I just placed it somewhere for direct incoming air while driving and hose clamped it over the air breather intake. Sort of like a poor mans blower or supercharger.

 What I did they prob would have thrown me in jail if I drove in California, but let the engine breathe n take in more cool air and less backflow exhaust restrictions and they gotta get better MPG . Still in the modern world now with my 454 Chevy direct injected Vortec and 4L80E Overdrive Tranny I can get 10 MPG in my 29 ft class C and that's better then the old days of 8+

 John T

Sweet! The dual pipes are on my do list. Thanks for confirming on the pipes question. I will definitely upgrade. I like your poor man modification for air intake. The doghouse really restricts air flow. That's a great idea. The other suggestion with the distributor. I'm liking that as well. As to being legal (emissions) in Colorado; she's registered as a collectible - don't have to do the emmision inspections. Hope these upgrades are ok to drive in other states for the future adventures. What's your personal choice on the carb dilemma? P.

A holley 500 cfm w/ electric choke is about the best way to go. Its a simpler install, and the metering jets are easier to adjust. Being in a higher elevation you need fuel flow to match the lack of air flow.  You mentioned a 600 cfm,, That in my opinion would be a little to much ummmph in the fuel to air ratio your going to experience.

John T.  did make an excellent point using DUAL 2 1/2 inch exhaust.  I put dual exhaust on my one ton chevy dually but I went with 3" pipe. It opened up the engines ability to breathe a bunch. Could actually feel the engine pull and excelleration was better improved. As for intake breathing,, Doghouses restrict air flow. I have used the dryer duct trick, and many people laughed, BUT it did work. The engine didnt have to rely on what air it could get by what ever wind happened to come into the engine compartment. The duct hose is like a poor mans mini turbo. You will feel a noticeable difference when you first drive it. It will have a little more ummmph and will actually run better.

Good morning Lakota. 3" inch pipe or 2 1/2" might be better @ this altitude. Have to check back pressure. Either one would be a huge improvement. I've been listening to sound clips on mufflers. I'm liking the Dynomax Super Turbo & Walker Quiet Flow. Don't want to turn the heads in the neighborhood or camp grounds. What are your thoughts?
The Holley 500 cfm with electric choke is a choice. I am in agreement with you that a 600 cfm spread bore is a little much for her. Here's another option - Edelbrock has a 500 cfm (4 barrel) square bore. Don't know even with rejetting it would have what is needed to keep the secondaries closed most of the time and open the secondaries when needed acceleration & mountain climbing? Not sure if the mounting pattern would match up to her cast iron square bore pattern. Please share your thoughts. All feedback is really appreciated. Got till spring to complete this stage of restoration. Pamela

Edlebrocks are OK carbs,, But are limited in my opinion as to rejetting or even getting the correct jets other then having to go thru the company,, and by then, you lose warrantee when you rejet from a factory setting. I have had good success with Holly and there *Hotline for help. 

The Dynomax exhaust is a decent designed muffler,, falls into the old school hush thrust mufflers we used back in the day,, (They are like the Banks version of a turbo muffler with a flow thru design), which is to tone down the exhaust noise but giving back pressure to avoid blowing out exhaust valves. (Old school was easier to work on when we had regular fuel available, at least the lead cushioned the valve seats).

I'm leaning more towards the 2 barrel Holley. What is the general consenois?

Dynomax sure decent old school. What is a great muffler present day? Need help getting up to speed. Been way to long since I tinkered with this kind of stuff. 

New formulated gas has been a challange. That's another subject.

Thrush makes a decent old school concept muffler,  We call them hush thrust,, sounds throaty when you throttle into it, but it tones down the rattle and rumble when you let off.

Forgot to mention, A Thrush is whats on my Diesel, and its running off a 4 inch exhaust pipe into a 6 inch stack. its actually quiet.

Ya, the Thrush is alittle throaty for my taste. Not bad though. There's new technology out there like the "Cherry Bombs Vortec" the best of all 4 muffler designs. A little pricey but if I'm able to bump up mileage even if its 1 mpg. could pay for itself with these fuel prices now adays. Just alittle concerned at the db (noise) level. 

True on the noise,,, Its not good when they can hear you 8 blocks away. Plus in an RV park, there are day sleepers that get annoyed when ya rattle there windows just idleing thru,

Let us all know what works and post it.. Im always up for better.




  •         How To Links 

-Search Good Old RV's

-Start a New Group 

-Roof Repair Photos & Products

-Repair an RV Roof

-Pick Roof Sealer   

-Understanding RV Electrical Systems 

-Get RV Insurance   

-What to Look For When Buying a Used RV

-Jack Installs Fuel Injection in his Dodge 


 Paige's VintageTrailer Art  

 Paige's VintageTrailerFabric

 Artist Roads                                            Sandy's Stained Glass     



If you love classic and vintage RVs then come Join us. Come on in and have some fun. JOIN HERE NOW


Roof Repair

Started by Patricia in RV Repair & Maintence 1 hour ago.

Shower Base

Started by Obadiah Israel in Vintage & Classic RV Restoration & Purchase Sep 12.

Looking for info on 1973 Shasta XL-2200

Started by Sherry Helsel in Shasta Owners Sep 1.

Blog Posts

Balboa owners

Posted by Bill on May 19, 2020 at 8:11am

camper theft

Posted by Thomas S. Redding on May 18, 2020 at 11:19am


Posted by Eddie Marquez on May 5, 2020 at 2:34pm

"Easy" Loose Pipe Repair

Posted by Don Olson on April 26, 2020 at 12:08am — 1 Comment

Loose Pipe Fix

Posted by Don Olson on April 26, 2020 at 12:02am — 1 Comment



  • Add Videos
  • View All


If you love classic and vintage RVs then come Join us.

 Come on in and have some fun.         JOIN HERE NOW!

 Dedicated to a simpler, more rewarding and fun way of life in a Good Old RV... 

Vintage Travel Trailers, Vintage Campers, Camper Restoration, Bus Conversions, Vintage RV Forums, Old RVs, Tiny Homes, Boondocking


A work of art by member Paige Bridges

Get your Good Old RVs T-Shirt HERE


 Disclaimer - Please Read it

Enjoy this site and use it totally at your own risk.

By using or viewing this site YOU agree to Hold Harmless anyone associated with it including other members. Also, YOU agree that YOU are solely responsible for ANY and ALL actions, results or damages. Members "opinions" are just that and any repair or alteration comments or recommendations are by folks who are not licensed repair  or mechanical professionals. Any repairs or modifications you do totally at YOUR OWN RISK. Use licensed professionals for all work to avoid possible serious injury or damage. Use  banks for purchases.  Have fun!

Copywrite & Trade Mark Registered GoodOldRV© ,GoodOldRVs©,©,©,GoodOldRV.Com©

© 2020   Created by Russell E Johnson.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service