Replacing Running Light and License Plate Holder - Basic Questions

[Dawn Michelle]

Afternoon all - I need to tackle replacing/repairing a side light and a license plate holder that came loose during Juno's trip over.  Two basic questions.  

1. What is the sealant used between the item and the side of the rv (aluminum)?  It doesn't look like caulk.  More like a sheet of something. But it's crumbled and needs to be replaced whether or not I replace the items-and the replacements I've found on Amazon don't seem to have whatever that stuff is with it.

2. Another issue is several screws came out and are now too loose to reattach - I 'assume' that I need to redrill (carefully) to take a slightly bigger screw - or is there a better way to handle that situation?

[Lakota Wolf]

That sealant between the light and body is Butyl tape, also called rolled cauking. And with the holes wallered out and loose, It's common to just go up to the next sized screw to achieve a tight fit.

[Dawn Michelle]

I wondered if that might be the butyl tape I'd seen used for trim.  I watched several videos that added a bead of silicone around the edges - seems that is the horror of horrors?  Or is it acceptable (if carefully done) in this application?  If not, another type of caulk?  

Discovered Harbor Freight today...'nuff said.

[Lakota Wolf]

EWWWWWW,,, NO slicone,,, never ever,,,   Butyl tape comes in different forms,,, normally seen in rolls,

1/8 inch upwards to 8 inch rolls,, I have also gotten it in flat sheets,, the largest being a 12x12 inch by 1/8 inch thick.   Its the RV standard window,service door frames,outside outlets,water and power outlet fixtures.

It DOES dry out and needs replacing from time to time,, depending on the age and weather extremes its exposed to. An old plumber friend said in his trade, its called Plumb putty,, for sealing around water pipes exiting out the side of homes,, But its basically a durable Putty type sealant. Think silly putty as a kid.

With your mention of seeing video's of watching guys use *silicone around windows and fixtures,, it makes me go UGGGGGG..   The problem with that patch and seal method,, it doesnt hold up and when you need to remove it, it is a royal pain in the rear.. You will use up all your available elbow grease and become so frustrated,, excedrin headache commercial #39 wont even compare.. AVOID SILICONE.

Just clean both surfaces,, and apply the butyl tape,(putty) around the edges and press into place,, and if ya get an excessive amount squishing out,, you can trim it a little bit for asthetic reasons. The 1/8 inch bead roll is perfect for side marker light bases,, easy to conform around the curves AND SCREW HOLES. I dont recommend using it on the lens before snapping the lens back on the base.

Hope this helps ya out.

[Dawn Michelle]

Perfect, thank you!!!  Looks like someone did the job right, then, to start with - at least on these.  I can visualize what you are saying (I have watched some good videos where they use the tape on windows and feel confident I understand the process - pretty much same thing I just hadn't translated one to the other.  

I suspect I've got silicone on my back corner trim (right now the roof and back are tarped) waiting for warmer and drier weather.  Might hear some of that prophesied cursing then when I go to remove and prep!

So glad you are here to offer advice!  I try to do my due diligence so I don't wear out my welcome :-)  I bet, though, come spring I'm going to be a nuisance - I say that quite cheerfully!

[Lakota Wolf]

Never a Nuisance,,, always good to hear from you as you indulge into a project. A quick tip when trying to get silicone off a relativly flat surface is use leather gloves and RUB it off so to speak,, it does not peal off very easily,,, But with leather gloves,, the rub it with your thumb method  helps.. Also with a bit warmer weather, the silicone is easier to get off then when its cold,,

And we always await to hear about your progress...

[Terry H]

Suggestion:

Screws - as per Lakota - go up one size. IE, if existing is a number 6, go to an 8. If existing is an 8, go to a 10. You can take an existing with you to the store if you are unsure of the size. Spend a few cents extra and purchase stainless steel for replacement. DO NOT drill new holes. Put the replacements in by hand, rather than with a power driver. The screw bite will be minimal due to the thin wall of what you are applying them to. Power tools will tend to strip the thread - hand tools provide you with a far greater 'feel' for tightness. Prior to screwing in the screw take a tube of quality urethane or polyurethane caulking, cut a small tip on the tube and force the caulking into the hole.

Silicone removal - again as per Lakota. Gloves and rubbing will give you strings or threads of existing caulking. Be sure to clean  all of the threads from the wall areas. You won't get all of the residue from the target area by rubbing, but light and careful sanding will help. Also, one of the few things that helps is naptha or the old style Ronson Lighter Fluid, again used with care, and careful cleaning of all residue.

Very few (read none) products are available that will seal to and adhere to silicone. Including silicone.

Butyl tape is quite effective and may achieve extended longevity if applied in conjunction with a liquid sealant. This is particularly true in the case of windows and cargo doors and larger items such as roof vents. Smaller items such as clearance lights require far more time and practice to achieve an aesthetic result. If you are interested, just ask.

[Dawn Michelle]

Thank you for the tip on not using a power driver in this instance!  I just picked one up at HF seeing as how tightening screws is going to be a fulltime job :-)  

And a reminder about the screw replacements.  Urethane or polyurethane caulking is a term I can take to hardware store and they can direct me from there I expect, but for my edu-ma-cation what do you mean by 'liquid sealant'?  

And do you let the caulking you put in the hole dry first, or it dries around the screw?

Okay, so just to share - this was the silicone guy - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LAtja05fPaY - I did think he had a good discussion about how there are different type of lights based on placement of the bulb that will be useful if I have to replace. Right now though I think both pieces are in good shape, just need to reseal and get reseated.

I'll share photos of my project when the time comes if not a video.  Maybe it's basic but there have to be others that are diving into a restore that never watched their daddy (or mom!) do this stuff growing up.   My grandpa was an electrical contractor - sure wish I'd learned a little from him.  I am glad however I am the age I am - I can at least remember a time when people worked on their own cars and my other grandpa had a farm.  Coming out of the depression they knew how to 'make do'. Maybe I'm not giving the new generation that much credit - but it seems replacing not repairing is the message.  At least I know it can be done if I can find the right advice!  And what a joy it is!

[Dawn Michelle]

Is 3/4 wide enough?

[Lakota Wolf]

Oh yea,,,,, You can use that just about anywhere on your rig,,,

[richard nance]

google 'nutserts'

[Dawn Michelle]

Found this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sz2yZNqGNqo - nifty, like a pop riveter (as they say)!  I can see this being very useful if I end up with a consistent issue around the rig.  Really nice when you can't access, don't want to cut a hole in the wall!  As long as things feel solid I don't want to go tearing around back there.  Maybe that's wishful thinking...

[Rich Thomas]

Hi Dawn, I wanted to throw my 2 cents in here with all the advice being very good so far. I would like to caution you on one aspect of your project. As Lakota mentioned and others, you can go up a size on your marker light screws but I would caution you to make sure that the screw you use fits the hole in the light base; over time these tend to dry out and crack under normal circumstances. If the new screw is bigger than the fixtures mount hole, you can actually cause that base to crack out. One other method you can use to fix the mount hole is to place a couple small wood slivers along with exterior wood glue in the hole prior to placing the standard screw back in. I have used flat wood tooth pics for this repair many times with fairly good results and you don't have to drill a new hole or risk braking your light base.