Never never land...Never EVER count on a job being fairly easy in these things.......

I THOUGHT....yeah..this is what I get for thinking...
that this was going to be a fairly easy job to do on this heater duct that is crushed by the frame of the couch/bed. Now, looking over this couch and how it is bolted together with no working room anywhere to dismantle it and then get it back together, I decided that was not happening. (I am reminded of Lakota's comment on ablog about an RV being built around a cabinet. I think this RV was built around this couch. LOL)

I was able to get the duct out from under the frame with not too much trouble,and thank goodness for small miracles there were no tears or holes, then ran it over the frame. But, as soon as you put the couch back into position from a bed the couch top frame was crushing it. Not near as much, but I no likey that.

So, I thought of notching the frame enough to fit the duct...but there is no working room to do that and it would weaken it. Nope.

Last resort, the old shag carpet had to go away at some point, it's filthy and stinky with mouse pee/droppings. I knew that was going to be a job. Little did I realize just how bad it would be......


There are TWO layers of carpeting there,(WHY??) just like the wheel well cover, and a half inch of foam underlay beneath that. If I take that out, it will give a couple inches of room for that duct.
Uh huh...yeah. Off to work I go on it. Staples and glue and nails...oh my! And let's deal with wiring that is nailed to the floor through the carpeting in a highly difficult place to get to, that leads to a screwed in pump of some kind for a city water hook up. (I think)

Two hours I worked on that and it is no where near done. Sweating profusely because of the high humidity and less than a foot of working space I have to crawl into. Just to fix a crushed section of duct. Blimey!!


Probably could reduce the size of the duct, but then I would have to adjust the vent hook up etc. to accommodate that and I don't think it's a good idea to reduce the airflow.

I've started it, I might as well bite the bullet and finish it. I'll need more blades for the utility knife soon. ;-)

Good news, we did get some rain. Enough that the grasshoppers should get a quenching. ;-)

And a thought just occurred to me. Who says the duct and register vent has to stay where it is? It's mine now, I can do what the heck I want. Maybe....I can relocate that and solve the whole danged problem.

Hmmmm.......I'll be back. :)

The following is an added edit after I took a look at something:


Make believe the cardboard box in the picture is a small wood box constructed to house the register vent and duct.  Imagine the grey duct in the picture not being visible, that will have to be cut down some. There is just enough room between the couch and the wall to build a box to redirect this vent/duct.  Can anyone think of a reason this will be a bad idea?  If it works, it's going to save me a ton of work and I'll like it much better for accessibility too.

This would also make for a nice little shelf to set "stuff" on.

Whatcha' think ya'll?

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Comment by Dawn Michelle on June 13, 2017 at 5:41pm

Glad I wasn't presuming then!

I wonder if that faucet could be the way you drain your freshwater tank? Mine was just a poly line coming out from under the RV that someone had stuck a stick into (facepalm) to keep it from leaking out.  

I'm fortunate - this is such a simple small rig I have been able to figure everything out so far and access things.  Yours from what I remember probably has a few more bells and whistles for you to figure out!

But when it all comes together - it's like OH of course - how simple!  Or, OH how stupid - who the heck thought this was a good idea???!!!

Comment by Tina on June 13, 2017 at 5:34pm

I appreciate all of your comment post Dawn. The plumbing will be on the agenda at some point, so this is good stuff to know. I am a noob for sure on how things work in the RV's and I don't have a manual like the metal attached sign next to the potable water inlet says to read. LOL
There is a faucet of sorts sticking out from under the RV a few feet from the potable water inlet. I haven't a clue what that is for .....yet. When I get to that part of the overhaul, I'll post a pic. Brother will probably have some info on it in the meantime. I have learned so much already from all of you. Truly appreciated!

Comment by Dawn Michelle on June 13, 2017 at 5:23pm

That gray line is probably the same type of pipe I have in mine - called polybutylene?  

I understand, at least here in NC (according to the Ace guy), they don't make it anymore so when you start hacking into your lines keep in mind that Watts Quick Connects (mine were 3/8 cts - od at Lowes look the same but are the wrong size) will work with poly, as well as the pex that is available for any lines you have to replace.  

My water pump looks like the one you have pictured and should serve to pump the water out of your fresh water tank into your system when you don't have city water hooked up.  The city water will work just on pressure, just like your house.  You may know all this but throwing it out in case you don't!  Be sure before hooking up city water to test your lines you have a pressure regulator attached - most hose pressure is too high for RV plumbing lines.

Mine was a mess - the city water was unhooked from it and my pump WAS right next to my converter which seemed like a hazzard to me, so I decided to replumb it all.  I ended up adding a swing gate valve on the city water side so that water couldn't back flow through the pump but there were some comments on my discussion later that made me think that might not have been necessary and the shurflo pumps have those?

Here's that discussion in case there is anything there you can glean from that:

Sorry if this is off topic from your heating questions or unnecessary - I don't like to assume people know things.  People do that with me and that's when I make my dumbest mistakes - LOL.  And, since I just went through the plumbing learning curve hope I can help.

Comment by Tina on June 13, 2017 at 4:04pm

Forgot to add, there is no pump near the inverter.

Comment by Tina on June 13, 2017 at 4:03pm

I just went out and looked while doing some measuring for the heater vent box.  That pump goes to a grey water line that runs across the floor in the back and then under the area where the fridge and furnace are. I assume it is what is feeding the plumbing at the sink, the line is the same color.

Outside is a flip open door that says "Potable" water directly in line with this pump.

Comment by Dawn Michelle on June 13, 2017 at 3:35pm

You have my complete empathy!!!!!!  I haven't started on the carpet on mine yet - I actually feel kind of bad - someone made sure to put nice padding below it and it's comfy and clean - but I hate the color.  It'll be interesting to find if the original carpeting is underneath the padding!!!  Might be as it certainly is in all the cabinets.  Go orange (maybe it once was?) shag!!!

Comment by Lakota Wolf on June 13, 2017 at 3:30pm

Have to rewind,,, if I'm not mistaken you already have a fresh water pump near your inverter, why would they have 2 pumps? Maybe run a separate hose to a neighboring RV while dry camping and steal their water? Hmmmmm that's a mystery,, Time to call the Dream Machine and get ole Scooby and Shaggy on that.

Comment by Lakota Wolf on June 13, 2017 at 3:26pm

That pump screwed to the floor is your fresh water pump, to pump water from your holding tank to the faucets. And with duct work. You can run it just about anyway you want and need to. There isn't a so called standard as how it's supposed to be. Be creative, get the jiggy on. Disguise it as a plastic fica tree, no one will know, well cept us here, and we won't tell anyone, especially if you bring donuts,,,,.  Mmmmmmmm donuts...



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