jeff york
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  • Lexington, KY
  • United States
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buying a vintage motor home far from home
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I want to buy a vintage motor home. But, I want something I can use and improve this summer with my son before I get serious with it this winter. I have had little luck finding something close to…Continue

Started this discussion. Last reply by Mike and Heather Brancich Jul 5, 2014.

 

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You And RVing
Part Time RVer
City and State where you are located. Do not use zip code, you know what it means but it means nothing to the rest of us.
Lexington, Kentucky
Tell us a little About Yourself
1977 Airstream Argosy 28 class A .... Previous owner of Class C Fleetwood currently have a vintage restored Coleman pop up and looking for a Vintage motor home.
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What Interests you about the world of Good Old RVs?
finding and purchasing a vintage motorhome, restoration and information
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Jeff york's Blog

Master cylinder gasket needed

I have a 1977 Airstream motor home based on a Chevy P 30 chassis with all four wheel disc barkes. I need a master cylinder gasket. Its not the same gasket or master cylinder typically used on a rear drum set up, Its much larger. the gasket has Bendix 2228633 stamped on it. It measures 6 inches long by 4 inches wide. Very large master cylinder fluid tanks.  I can not find it at any big box auto parts stores. Does anyone here have one or a source ?

Posted on September 1, 2015 at 11:10pm — 17 Comments

Overdrive with a Doug Nash DNE 2 on my Airstream Argosy

I have an opportunity to pick up a Doug Nash overdrive unit for a good price. I can get a full rebuild kit for it as well. Since its used, I am considering it a rebuild able piece and expect to rebuild it before I install it. I have been considering a custom build OD transmission but, the availability of this unit is making me consider going this way. 

I have a 1977 Airstream Argosy 28. Fully restored with a 454 thats bored stroked, balanced and blueprinted to a 496. I also…

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Posted on August 17, 2015 at 4:41pm

Anti sway bar bushings on a P 30 chassis Airstream Argosy

Ok, this one is probably an obvious one. I need new rear anti sway bar bushings. I am writing this one in hopes of helping others by bringing attention to all of you to check your rear sway bar. front one too. I will give credit here to my friend Greg Blue. Fireman and Airstream expert from southern Florida. 

I noticed my Airstream Argosy motor coach seems to sway to much in the butt. Side to side sway as in a top heavy feel. I just installed new Air springs in the front and…

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Posted on July 31, 2015 at 10:24am — 11 Comments

Possible vapor lock or ??? 454 / 496 GM motor

I had an odd incident last night. I pulled my 1977 Airstream Argosy 454 / 496 GM powered coach out of storage. I ran it about 10 minutes before leaving and then drove about 25 miles and stopped for gas. I pumped about 22 gallons of regular gas into it. It sat maybe 20 more minutes running while I pumped the gas. Then, right after I pulled out, the motor shut down. I got it to restart and then as soon as I got through the intersection it shut down again. I could hit the key and it would…

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Posted on July 30, 2015 at 1:26pm — 31 Comments

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At 11:56am on July 7, 2015, R. Randall Halton said…

Looks real nice Jeff, the night photos are outrageous. Glad you were able to locate the electrical problem.

At 10:50pm on July 6, 2015, Rich Thomas said…

Eric the picture is of my MH 1977 G30 chassis. on the large post is the battery lead and the blk lead. the black is a fusible link that goes to the fuse block and the red wire is the S wire. this is a fully functional starter set up that I took a picture of for Jeff to reference. There is nothing missing. Sorry for any confusion.

At 9:35pm on July 6, 2015, Erik Anderson said…

Seems Like You Are Missing The (S) Solenoid Wire. We Can Not tell from your photo where the Red Wire is going to?. although my GM days were in the mid 70's, early 80's. It Would appear that the 2 wires RED = Batt. and the other one appears to be on the Battery Post of the starter solenoid. If these both had the large Diameter eyelet end connector.  They would both go to the Large Copper Batt. Stud in the Solenoid. and that you are missing the Solenoid (S) wire around there some where.  Watch this simple YT Video, maybe it will Help.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wPe6QzrNM2Q

At 8:46pm on July 6, 2015, Casey Chinook said…

Here is something from another RV blog on the 454 starter relay. It seems some are mounted near the bottom of the steering column, some mounted on the alternator, some mounted on the passenger side chassis frame.

Another thing could be a starter relay in the start system. I know, never heard or seen a relay until my coach wouldn't start. I started with the starter. It bench checked good. I charged the battery and had it checked. It checked goo d. Pulled the starter switch and it checked good. Remembered about the nutral safety switch and this too is good. Ok, must be a bad wire. Sure enough, checked for continuity from safety switch to starter and didn't have any. Started pulling wires looking for the break. The selinoid wire went to a relay. The wire from the starter switch also went to this relay. Pulled out relay and it checked bad. Replaced it and all my starting problems went away. I have never seen a relay in any wire diagram. I have even goggled about a relay and nothing showed that fit what I had. Even the Chevy parts guy never heard of a starter relay until he looked it up, and even then, it was a first for him. Mine was located on the underside of a brace near my alternator. Read as not easy to see. Oh yea, I have an '83 HR Monitor with P30 chassis and 454. Sorry for the length, but couldn't think of a readers digest version.

At 8:15pm on July 5, 2015, Pat Daly said…

Consider having an old school radiator shop not just recore, but build a larger radiator for your rig. More cooling capacity, more cores with more heat transferred away from engine block. My constantly overheating 454 in a P30 chassis got the problem solved, finally after doing this. The good news was it was only about 100 bucks more a few years ago. can't hurt to ask. guess make sure there is enough room to drop it in too.   The high capacity racing (hot rod) water pumped helped too.

At 7:17pm on July 5, 2015, Jim Stoltz said…

Thanks Jeff. I, too, think that replacing the radiator is the only option. Anything else is a band-aid. I'll post back with my results once I get that taken care of.

At 12:58am on June 26, 2015, jeff york said…
Casey. No I didnt go roller. I didnt think I would need them because of the low rpm I was shooting for. But, afterwards I thought they would have more advantages from a wear perspective.
At 12:56am on June 26, 2015, jeff york said…
Casey, my rpm will drop to 2200 at 60 mph. I have a 4.56 rear with 19.5 rims at 31 in tires and the OD will be .70 :1 for a 2200 rpm.

Im going to look into pre lubers.
At 4:55pm on June 22, 2015, Casey Chinook said…

Hey Jeff,

I commented to Jim Stoltz by mistake. The questions were actually for you. Thanks Jim for the shout back.

Amazing fuel improvement. As to engine wear, the SAE stated that 80% of engine wear is from cold starts after long periods of sitting. There was also another study done by one of the University's that said to was closer 90% wear from  engine starts after long periods of sitting.

There are prelubers on the market that allows you to prelube the engine prior to starting. If  I get my last major engine issue resolved I plan on looking into a pre luber. You can also use it to pump out your oil with a hose for fast oil changes while standing with a flick of a switch.

The balance and blueprint engine work you did will pay off in extended engine life without a doubt. As far as the cam, I did the same thing on a 383 stroker following a joint phone conversation with a guy from Comp Cams and the a engineer from AFR heads. I wanted the lower torque to come on because the engine was in a pick up and weighs more. It work out perfect. Horsepower is great, but torque is what moves things.

A couple questions, did you go with a roller cam on your rebuild? and also the cam grind you mentioned getting the lower torque to come on around 2200 rpm's should be right on the money I would think.

With that in mind, if you go to the overdrive transmission, what do think your rpm drop will be?

At 1:17am on November 16, 2014, R. Randall Halton said…

Understood Jeff. Maybe they should look at the pictures before commenting or suggesting. If some goodfellas pulled up in the campground and fired up a 454 with a hitman transmission hooked to a 17500 watt producer, in a Airstream Trailer. Id have to go get more juice at the store. goodfellastransmissions.com might have a solution if you have problems with the tranny...

 
 
 

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