Looks real nice Jeff, the night photos are outrageous. Glad you were able to locate the electrical problem.

Eric the picture is of my MH 1977 G30 chassis. on the large post is the battery lead and the blk lead. the black is a fusible link that goes to the fuse block and the red wire is the S wire. this is a fully functional starter set up that I took a picture of for Jeff to reference. There is nothing missing. Sorry for any confusion.

Seems Like You Are Missing The (S) Solenoid Wire. We Can Not tell from your photo where the Red Wire is going to?. although my GM days were in the mid 70's, early 80's. It Would appear that the 2 wires RED = Batt. and the other one appears to be on the Battery Post of the starter solenoid. If these both had the large Diameter eyelet end connector.  They would both go to the Large Copper Batt. Stud in the Solenoid. and that you are missing the Solenoid (S) wire around there some where.  Watch this simple YT Video, maybe it will Help.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wPe6QzrNM2Q

Thanks Jeff. I, too, think that replacing the radiator is the only option. Anything else is a band-aid. I'll post back with my results once I get that taken care of.

Hey Jeff,

I commented to Jim Stoltz by mistake. The questions were actually for you. Thanks Jim for the shout back.

Amazing fuel improvement. As to engine wear, the SAE stated that 80% of engine wear is from cold starts after long periods of sitting. There was also another study done by one of the University's that said to was closer 90% wear from  engine starts after long periods of sitting.

There are prelubers on the market that allows you to prelube the engine prior to starting. If  I get my last major engine issue resolved I plan on looking into a pre luber. You can also use it to pump out your oil with a hose for fast oil changes while standing with a flick of a switch.

The balance and blueprint engine work you did will pay off in extended engine life without a doubt. As far as the cam, I did the same thing on a 383 stroker following a joint phone conversation with a guy from Comp Cams and the a engineer from AFR heads. I wanted the lower torque to come on because the engine was in a pick up and weighs more. It work out perfect. Horsepower is great, but torque is what moves things.

A couple questions, did you go with a roller cam on your rebuild? and also the cam grind you mentioned getting the lower torque to come on around 2200 rpm's should be right on the money I would think.

With that in mind, if you go to the overdrive transmission, what do think your rpm drop will be?